freemansteve

I'm not suggesting a smash.... It may have moved out of adjustment if not fully tight, and possibly someone pushing against it from the inside with a bit of an impulse if sticking out. Hard to see if it's sticking out or in though ! If it's sticking out, and if you bodge the door slightly with your hip, around the edge area near the handle, from the outside, does it move in a few mm's? If so, it can be pulled in a bit - it's trivial. Same (in reverse) if the door is sub-flush.

Hard to tell from a 'flat on' angle, but looks as if the door may need pulling in a tad. Take it it a local independent - they'll probably charge a £5-10 or so to adjust it - it takes 5 mins unless there is a real fault.

Get the ignition switch checked. A replacement does not need new barrel/keys.

No, I expect not - the factory is pretty good about measuring "fit". Your door is out of adjustment. Possibly seals have been moved, or the striker plate on the A pillar has shifted (or the latch mechanism in the door perhaps). Easy to deal with but you will need the right tool to adjust it. Something like this, if I recall correctly, "triple square" https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003LKDG2U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Have you done the battery disconnect/reconnect to reset the electronics? And it may be that the battery is dying. Can you get OBD codes off it with a cheap dongle?

It's not entirely uncommon to find small parts that were left behind when a car was assembled. Some only emerge a long time later. I found a small plastic bracket recently under the passenger seat my car (new in 2019) - turns out, from the part number, it's a cover for the lock in the tailgate (which has the exact same part fitted OK). Don't worry about it.

Maybe models vary with regard to "sidelights". Mine has no sidelights, per se. It has LED DRLs which are always on when the ignition is on, and if you turn the rotary switch to the "sidelight" position, all that happens is that the tail lights come on as well.

Can post the links to the video you used?

Don't confuse the connections between the bulbs and the bulb holders, and the holders into the body of the lamps which is what I was talking about. Whether bulbs have 2 (H7) or 3 (H4) spade connectors, isn't what I was saying... The bulb holder is the part with wires on one side and female spade receptacles on the other. Some variants have different fittings for the bulb holder to the lamp unit. I think you can still remove the ones with spring clips even if the bulb is stuck in the holder, if you are deft with fine-nosed pliers.

Mine seemed to be trivial to deal with - I changed bulbs in them a few months ago for brighter versions. One of the easiest changes ever. Try an old Smart, if, like me you have chunky hands/sausage fingers, or even (one side of) an Octavia or some Golfs Having said that, you can, over time, get corrosion between the bulb's spade connectors and the bulb-holder's female terminals - they are different metals and not of great quality. It's probably not a good idea to leave them for several years without checking that they can be separated, because sod's law guarantees that they will be very hard to remove when a bulb blows, and you are about to embark on a long night-time journey....

In the manual, it shows some models have twist-off bulb holders and some with spring clips. Be careful! If you can get the bulb holder out, it should be fairly easy to prise the bulb out a bit at a time with say, a small screwdriver....

Not a factory error. There are official part numbers for full sized spare wheels and kits - you were lucky to get one, and it may have been included with the particular car you bought! I have a full-size steel with my 2019 - but I had to press the dealer into including it for free for me....

You really need the huge downforce of both spoilers when doing 150mph in the supermarket car park....

Twin lights are fitted to each lamp unit in some higher-spec models. These use a pair of single filament H7's each. All other models use a single twin-filament H4 in each lamp unit. It's easy to tell which are single or twin by looking at the lamp unit from the front (meaning you don't even have to open the bonnet!) Nightbreakers are good, but as has been well-documented, they have comparatively shorter lives. This is the same for all brands of extra-high brightness filament bulbs, as the filaments are under a lot more stress.

Expensive. The spare key's number will give the pattern for a new key, but you'll need a specialist or dealer to make the remote work on a new key. They will need your VIN....

not all models have maxidot. I think 'miles to next service' shows up on the LCD display for a short time when the ignition is on.

It's the rear ones that are most important..... Check out "rust around petrol filler", for Up"/Citigo/Mii on the web....

Aha! We're glad you are sorted, or at least mobile. I think the sensor you're talking about is the MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure), so if disconnected, the ECU sees zero air pressure, so zero fuel is needed, so it decides it's a fault, not unreasonably

Indeed - as you say yourself "starter motor and/or the injection system" Has anyone checked what the Citigo or Up! does (or doesn't do) if immobiliser is activated? I've no idea myself!

Hmmm, as already said, the air filter is probably a consequence not a cause, and even if it's 'dirty' the engine should start (it does not suck much air for idling). Could still be an immobilizer issue - I'm not certain if it's the ignition that is blocked, or whether the engine stater motor is also blocked, if the car is in an immobilised state. Try what I said above. Do you have an OBD dongle to check any fault codes ?

It is more efficient for nearly all users and situations! But in any case, you can feel good about reducing your NOx, CO2 and particulate emissions! Without re-opening the whole topic, there are many situations where the ECU decides to not stop the engine - it is smarter than a lot of people realise, but errs on the side of caution.

Cooling fan could still be a sticky relay or, less likely, an intermittent temp sensor... If the problem comes back check the relay (tapping it hard is the first thing to try, to see what happens!)

I think it is standard in all post-facelift versions for those thinking of buying a car...

How did you determine "ignition fires" ? Does the car partly run, kind of trying to pick up? It'll usually come down to one of a) lack of fuel being injected, b) lack of spark or c) immobizer Easiest check first - If c), I'd disconnect and reconnect the battery to reset the ECU etc, (like you would re-power a PC), then go through the key-coding procedure (in the manual). Check plug leads end-to-end. A long shot theses days though, as HT is buried in the coil packs.... Least likely is fuel filter (pain to get to) or most expensively, HP fuel pump....

You were right!