freemansteve

I wouldn't trust this kit myself. When I bought my car, I insisted the dealer threw in the official VAG spare wheel and extra tools (and free mats) - it didn't cause a big problem. They also let me keep the inflator pump and "gloop" bottle, which is what you are supposed to use for punctures in many recent cars - I'd trust this more than the tyre sticks, and at least if something bad happens, if you use the official VAG gloop kit, then I think there may be fewer potential insurance repercussions in the event of a claim.

The heater works using hot engine coolant via a small radiator - there isn't a fuse for that. I suspect they have dislodged the cable from the rotary temp dial to the air mixer box. Take the car car back and get them to reconnect it.

You know what, I'd take the car to a local garage and get them to bleed the clutch, but while there, get an opinion on the problem... It won't cost a lot, and they have all the gear that makes bleedingt easy and quick, and will dispose of the old hydraulic fluid (which otherwise you'll need recycle at the local tip).

I bet your clutch is dragging a tad, which may well be a hyrdraulic issue, unless you are unlucky! It's unlikely to be shift cables after only 45k miles, IMHO, but it looks as if it's easy to check. And if the linkages are poorly adjusted you tend to get poor shifting when driving, not just from stationary. Also, if for some strange reason, a previous owner had refilled the gearbox with the wrong oil, you'd be feeling all sorts of gearshift issues when driving, like slow or rough changes, clunkiness etc. Any car that has a linkage between the gearbox and the shifter, whether rods or cables, could potentially require adjusting - it's nothing to do with the car being FWD - for example, Beetles/Porsches have linkages but are RWD, and some older FWD cars have a direct lever to the gearbox).

No. There is an automatic tensioner - that's the case with all cambelts. The tensioners are normally changed with the belt, it would be weird for the garage doing the work not do this, as the belts usually come as kits. INA is a commonly supplied belt and kit - I see no reason to worry about it. INA is part of Schaeffler - a German company that also owns FAG & LuK.

Some points in the article in the link are wrong.... 1) Induction noise is minimal; no worse than any other car, and the crank has 120 degree offset, so the idea that 2 cylinders are in the same part of the induction cycle is not on. 2) The cambelt change advice is wrong - this is incorrect advice that has come out of UK dealers only, or VAG UK. The change interval is far higher - lots of data on this on the VW Up! forum. Having said that, if you buy a car with >100k km, check if the belt has been changed, and if not, haggle the price, as you will need to change it soon. 3) The ancillary drive belt does not need changing on every major service. In any case, failure is inconvenient, not catastrophic. You can see the condition of the belt just by peering into the engine bay.

Sorry to baffle. Brand of the card is irrelevant....The bulk of them are are basically the same, some being faster for reading/writing, or bigger, to hold more stuff. Speed is not important for MP3 music. I use a 128GB card which carries 10's of thousands of tracks (but is a fraction of my collection!). It takes ages to copy data to it, but once done, it is good for the car. It happens to be a Samsung microSD inside a full SD holder. Cards come with default formatting (or none). In general, it's good practise to put a new card into a PC and do a "quick format" on it. Then you know what it is. The formatting is just one of several different ways of storing information about file locations within the card (or disk - which is also formatted) - different histories about how these different layouts came to be, and a few became universal standards (like exFAT), while some are proprietary to say, Windows (i.e. NTFS). If you want a card to work in widest possible number of systems, exFAT or FAT32 usually works, especially so for MP3s...

I should have said exFAT not NTFS - at least on my radio unit, the former works, the latter does not.

I think FAT32 or NTFS both work. I bet your 2G card was FAT16 or other format.

A 2G card should work. Reformat it in a PC put music on it and try again.

OK, just guessing, but I assume a sensor must be needed to tell the controller the g/b itself (or selector lever in the cabin) is in neutral, else it will prevent starting. So maybe check the cabin selector lever assembly first, IF there is a switch in it - there may not be. There IS a gearbox input r.p.m. sender that may be faulty....

Gotta be a switch or sensor somewhere, but beyond that, I can't guess....

Bummer. Best of luck with Skoda UK!

Yep, if you need auto, better choices than an Up!/Citigo!

Scooters use a simple centrifugal clutch, and below a certain RPM, drive is entirely disconnected (no creep). A torque converter is always 'connected', so you get some creep - many users like this as a lazy way to handle slow, stop-start traffic. Apart from ASG, the other two systems are: DSG (using two clutches, so gears can be preselected for very fast gear changes) but no creep; and belt-and-variable-pulley systems, which may be CVTs or 'fixed interval' systems to simulate gears, both of which may or may not creep depending on the make (and vintage!) IMHO, ASG is the worst of both worlds, being a manual gearbox and clutch, but with electrical and electronic add-ons to automate human action. It's the add-ons that seem to go wrong! If I wanted an auto, I'd only consider DSG or torque converter - while being complex, they are far better developed and exist in huge numbers. ASG's are a bit of a rare peculiarity. In face-lift form especially, UP!'s, Citigos etc have nice gearbox and clutch actions. https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/volkswagen/up/61316/volkswagen-asg [not that autocar have much of value to say generally, beyond reformatting car company press releases!]

Apple have a history of having not-so-good Bluetooth compatibility with certain other devices, especially car systems - but usually OK with BT earbuds etc. Some models are better than others, but it's surprising that a new or recent phone is problematic. A few Android phones also have BT issues, but seems to be far less prevalent with those.

Can you try another phone as a test to see if the issue is with the radio or not?

Disconnect and reconnect the car's battery. This forces a system reset and on occasion can sort out odd behaviour.

Hah! It was an annual trip for me with a Rambler 5th Wheel (6.5 ton & 13 meters!) so I know what you mean. If we had relied on an atlas, we'd still be stuck somewhere, or possibly dead!

Atlas? I can pretty much get anywhere between the North Coast of Scotland and the Algarve with nothing more than a quick look at Google Maps before setting off, and have no need of a "road atlas". I guarantee however, that you cannot beat a SatNav in towns or if you get lost. Try going through, say, Seville without one - some major roads have four or five road numbers; you won't have time to read more than two in the traffic, and you'll miss a left-lane turn-off at some point.... Of course, a lot of people only use cars to go to the shops, so a SatNav is overkill

Yeah but I read (on the internet) that everything on the internet is true, opinions are always facts, anyone who can turn on PC is a computer genius, anyone who has used a screwdriver is PhD engineer, and that "your call us valuable to us"! I'm just glad that I'm really not going to change my cambelt for quite a few years, and my fossil-fuel dinosaur does not have rapid battery charging issues, which ought to be trivial to sort out by so-called Skoda Customer Service et al...

This is all I could find.... See pic. If it's not clogged, it might not be condensation from the evaporator/heat exchanger, and may be that water has got into the ventilation system from blocked drain holes in the air plenum (just below the wipers). Or, the pollen filter is blocked, and not enough fresh air is getting in, or the fresh air/recirculation slider control is not working and damp air is recirculating.

You can recycle any metal parts! No reason it can't be re-used though - what counts is the sealing washer.

By and large, manufacturers quite deliberately create fear, uncertainty and doubt about oil, by saying in my manual "To find out which type of engine oil you can use for your vehicle, contact a specialist garage" - this is to send you into the arms of a dealer, for reasons of profit. Basically, go for 504.00 - as I said, most brands will meet or exceed this spec. My manual also says to refill with "VW 502 00, ACEA A3/ACEA B4 or API SN, (API SM)", so even that lower spec appears acceptable. The thing is about 502, 3->7,8 etc is that they are increasingly higher specs, mostly for diesels but the Citigo engine does not really need the higher spec stuff. It is true that there are a lot of VW engines that have design features that require a very particular oil spec, but the little non-turbo triple is not one of them. As for C2, C3 etc, these are about ash content, which is quite important for diesel DPFs, but not important for a Citigo petrol engine (which has a GPF, but they're way less fussy than a diesel DPF). [edit] - I just found this: https://www.oilspecifications.org/volkswagen.php