freemansteve

The best thing (once cleaned or repaired) is to fit the wheel arch liners that came on later models as standard. Plenty of information on the Up! owner's forum, for part numbers, fitting guides etc.

Dunno about Fabias, but post-facelift Citigos and Ups! work very well with mobile phones, and the Move & Fun app does work to give you the fuel data and water temp. Having driven a few Fabias and Citigos recently, I can say that that unless you need the space, the Citigo is a much nicer car and will be cheaper to run in the next few years, and if you want a faster car, but which is even more economical, the Up! GTi is peerless.

Covered on the Up! owners forum....

The battery was going fail on you sooner or later! Better changed with some fore-warning that not starting in the middle of nowhere, in the rain, with no mobile signal - as can happen according to sod's law

Could be battery. Could be a faulty ignition switch - a common fault that causes several possible unusual electrical issues. Check on Up! owners forum.

There is no difference in peak torque between 60ps & 75ps, and until you go over 4k rpm, you cannot feel any difference (you can't tell cruising on a motorway) The 75 is a lot nicer for overtaking though, where you may need to rev it a lot more, and then you can feel the 25% more power. It's basically that the 75 has an extended torque band at high revs, but which is nevertheless below the peak level.

All Up!s/etc have smart alternators, as far as I know, which come on and off to allow some regen braking (the alternator gets turned on when you decelerate, unless the battery is so low that it needs charging anyway). The unit on the battery measures voltage, not power, and is used to decide whether the battery is OK for S/S as well as for regen braking. S/S may not come on for several reasons - the usual one is poor battery condition, but also it won't come on if the ECU senses that engine is too cold, i.e. it depends on temp sensors working correctly. A battery may indicate a fairly healthy voltage with zero or near-zero load - but it drops off a lot under even a slight load if the battery is in poor condition. The voltage under charge (from a charger system) is not really relevant as chargers normally control the output voltage and current presented to the battery.

Not sure - I haven't needed to get one luckily. Have a search on the (much bigger) site here - https://www.upownersclub.co.uk/ I'm sure the key replacement is covered there.

yes! they are basically good cars for the money, and more fun than many other small cars.

2019 - and yes, I can hear a (quiet) gear rattle in neutral, and an occasional clack (esp changes in lower gears), depending on how I sync engine, clutch and shift. Not much different to any car I've tried in the last 45 years, but some cars are much quieter than others in the cabin - after all, it's a mechanical system with bearings, shafts, end-float, backlash and more. Sound-proofing apart, the box rattling noises usually are less with an increasing number of cylinders for obvious reasons.

Ardcarn - your posts say you have: Model: Fabia 3 1.2 Year: 2017 Have you since bought a Citigo?

If it is a "clack" noise then it just a 'feature' of these cars. All gearboxes do this to some degree (many you won't ever hear), but our cars also don't have much soundproofing, and have thin cased, light gearboxes. Try listening to a gearbox being tested on a bench (I have) and they all sound dreadful. Depending on revs and how you time changes with use of the clutch, the noise can be minimized. It is naturally more noticeable at slower speeds (less ambient noise) and with lower gears (bigger cogs involved with more inertia) I'm wondering that since you are sensitive to the peculiarities of small budget cars, whether you should have gone for a larger sized, more expensive "family" car! Or test drive a similar age/mileage C3, or i10 etc...!

Note that cleaning out the rear drums, is not on the service schedule at the dealership. So they may inspect the brakes but that's all you get unless you ask for more work to be done, which is chargeable.

Yes, but the clutch connects the engine to the gearbox, which we know rattles in neutral because shafts are moving. The assumption that it is the clutch is flawed logic.

I suspect a number of sounds and symptoms are being conflated here.....

What makes you say it's the clutch that is rattling, or if it's the same noise as Mavver's?

Unlikely to be the clutch rel. bearing. These boxes all have a slight clack when gear changing, depending on how you do the change, what RPM etc. - same for most other cars, but the Citigo doesn't have the best soundproofing, and you sit very near the box...

No, not normal - assuming you go into reverse only when completely stationary, and don't rev during the short period the car is in neutral.. This is the same on all cars except the few that have synchromesh on reverse - the 'box needs to be quiescent.

I misunderstood. I thought you were complaining about the Citigo - which is a budget car. No Audi is a budget car!

Compress the file using one of 100 possible apps is what you need to do. On a PC, "Handbrake" is good. If you extract just the audio from any video, the resulting file will be much smaller. On a PC try TAudioConverter. A 2018 car might well have a newer gearbox version, so we can't be sure your noise the usual gear chatter, but also, with 13K,it's hard to believe it's the clutch.... What is your gearbox code from the build sticker? (see printed sticker in boot or in handbook)

There's nothing actually wrong with it! It's a budget car, and it'll be fine.

The gear chatter is pretty audible, if you have it, without rolling downhill!

Probably the standard gearbox rattle on earlier cars, rather than the clutch. There is no fix. You don't need to spend 5x what is necessary with a dealer for a simple door adjustment though.

I would guess it can be done - VAG are not going to make dozens of variants of wiring looms, as that would be stupid from a production point of view. A botch may be to just buy the mirror glass with heating elements, and figure out how to run wiring to say, a relay, to enable power when the HRW is on.... I would think changing the switch panel and maybe the mirror internals for kit sourced from a breaker's might give a better result - figuring out the wiring and connectors may need thought. Try posting on the VW Up! owners forum - it's a way bigger site and a lot more technical.

That's right - you need OEM heated mirrors or after-market ones in place first and the wiring back into the door. In any case, the heated rear screen is not linked to the heated mirrors. The former is a control on the dashboard and the latter is controlled by the position of the electric mirror control in the door. Maybe you need the electric mirrors to get heated mirrors? - I'm not certain. Maybe some models have heated mirrors but non-electric positioning and come on with HRW. But if not, you may need not just the proper mirrors, but also the right switchgear in the door (a panel that carries mirror control and electric windows control), and the right wiring loom extensions, if not already in place. And possibly some coding change in the BCM - I'm not sure if that is needed.