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This is an interesting and very relevant thread in reddit. Sounds almost exactly to replicate your experience. The golf gti engine is virtually the same. I've also read the explanation of functions in the ea888 g3 study guide and brown and blue switches and failure is as follows. 1. reduced oil pressure (brown switch) - effect of failure oil pump goes to full power mode only. DTC Fault recorded. Oil lamp 2. oil pressure switch failure. - effect of failure - dtc fault logged - oil lamp. Update for anyone who stumbles upon this: I put an oil pressure gauge on the car over the weekend and found that the pressures are totally within spec. Drove it around under the same conditions that usually triggers the light and found that the oil pressure was steady at 23 psi, and occasionally dipped for a split second to maybe 20 psi then back to 23 when accelerating. Hard acceleration made the system go into high pressure regulation mode, and the pressure would stick at around 50 psi until letting off the throttle. So looks like this is a switch problem. The minimum pressure you should ever see according to the service manual (for engine code CXCA) is around 17 psi, and the low pressure switch supposedly goes off around 12 psi. So the switch is probably shot. I think both the reduced oil pressure (brown) and the oil pressure (blue) switches are bad, as in my research I found that the brown switch causes the oil pressure light to go off, and the blue switch causes the EPC light/limp mode (but not the oil pressure light) to go off. I'll replace both switches today and see what happens. My suspicion is that the switches were damaged in the past due to there being fuel in the oil, as the car had a hard start problem in the past that was introducing a small amount of fuel to the oil on crank. UPDATE: Replacing both the oil pressure switches (blue and brown) fixed the issue! Have not had the light come back on for a few weeks now. I'll try to post the study guid oil supply explanation sections later as well, as it is a decent read.. For the cost, if it was me still trying to get through this, I'd try relacing the full power pressure switch (blue) as well. Ruling that out. As there is interaction between the two pressure switches and the N428 oil control valve in the event of "faulty" switches. The N428 oil control valve (on front crankcase - need to remove vbelt and probably drain oil partially at least) could be faulty as well perhaps - mentioned in previous post - if it was sticking in one mode or the other sometimes even briefly, It would mean the pump cold be in the wrong pressure mode compared to what the ECU is expecting (asking) for pressure wise. The other thing that has caught people out with oil pressure issues on EA888 gen 3s, (but usually results in a permanent and immediate oil pressure problem) is the anti drain valve in the oil filter housing. It is a sort of stick assembly that goes down into the bottom of the oil filter housing and there were at least two different versions. One had a spring tensioner the other just a ball joint stick pressed into the top of the oil filter case. But both feature a oring or dual oring seal at the important end to seal the drain hole. It gets pulled out when you change the oil filter (for the oil to escape). If that gets damaged, broken or the o ring gets leaky, it will leak pressure. If the stick gets broken it might not be retained to seal properly. It is pretty easy to check this when car engine cool and you won't need to drain the oil. just take the oil filter housing cover off slowly and allow the oil to drain down. Hope this might help, but keep us updated even if it is the garage who takes it forward! Edit: oil supply pdf self study guide attached. EA888 OIL Supply.pdf

Mmm. Off the cuff I wonder whether 1) the oil pump is faulty or 2) the oil control valve solenoid, that control the pump switching between reduced and normal pressure is faulty.. Will think a bit more but don't think I'll come up with anything more. The fact that normal oil pressure switch is now reporting a problem, suggests to me there is something not right, not just the sensor itself...

Maybe the sender float is ok with it opened up but is being restricted when being reinstalled. I’ve heard some sender faults before are due to alignment reinstalling the pump and sender basket back in the tank.

@TeebsVRS out of interest, how many miles for the chain to stretch requiring replacement with tensikner? Based on water pump leaking i'd say, and i'm guessing north of 6 years, 70k miles?

Yes. By reasonable, I mean for the jobs required and once you factor the parts required for those jobs at a guess probably near £900 if genuine. Possibly even £1000. Then that's £800 or £900 left for Labour. And they are two quite time consuming jobs. But it is a lot of money in my eyes, maybe not to the manufacturers. All in the name of expected durability. All expected sir. Just swallow it... Beyond 5 or 6 years you're on your own - sky is the limit..

It's a lot of work and parts have gone up a lot. Sounds reasonable, although is a significant hit to wallet.

Worth a shot. You could also try to ground out the connector by back probing the pin with a wire and connecting it to anything metal on the engine. See if the code changes.

Oh, ok. Even with oil pressure switch connector off? Same code still produced - no change? Makes me suspect wiring but you’ve come this far you may as well try a replacement brown oil pressure switch!!

Not really what I expected. Presumably the oil pressure switch malfunction is from before and you didn't clear? Before trying car with connector disconnected? 29.10- 2.03pm date stamp. The other error, I think is an ecu relay or starter fault. Is that time date stamp correct? 10.38am this morning? Maybe that is a red herring. You could retry by clearing codes. Turning off ignition. Disconnecting brown sender plug. Turning on ignition and if nothing still shows start engine. Keep hands amd connector away from ancillary belt and pulleys. Re run scan.. Or... just get on with trying a new replacement. Genuine would be good but the hella aftermarket seems to match. The hella after market lists 0.55 - 0.85 bar as well. Part no is one of many cross referenced. If you can't get to a dealer for vw or skoda part. .

Yes. I'd try a genuine one if - when you remove the connector and cycle the ignition and the ecu reports reduced oil pressure sensor - open circuit fault!

Ok. It could well be incompatibility - as the ecu is reporting it doesn't like it. Presumably the fault may also be logged without starting the emgine, I.e. just on circuit testing... edit. although, normally a switch is just a switch and using the wrong low pressure spec would just mean you risk running below acceptable pressure without the oil pressure light showing. E.g. say beteeen 0.3 and 0.5ba by using wrong spec.

Interesting. Yes, I'd remove it add see what's reported. I feel it is almost certainly on that circuit now. Whether its wiring, a faulty sensor or genuine pressure issue. Still don't know for sure. The reduced oil pressure sensor switches to the blue one after certain rpm. I'll see if I can find the parameter out of interest.

Yes, you could get the tracking done. If a way out - getting it realigned may help turn in bite improve and stability a bit. But as @nickytheshaft points out the single biggest factor is likely to be tyres. On that subject - what tread depth is left? Not familiar with the vectors - you could have a look at some reviews - you may find it is a common complaint with the tyres

Just thinking a bit laterally. What you could do, before removing the third oil pressure sensor or buying any replacement parts, is disconnect one at a time the various oil pressure sensors and do a code read each time. a open cct fault should be logged each time. That should then give you the descriptor the ecu is using for each of the three sensors. This may be helpful and low effort and low cost!

Yes, see how you go. Based on what I've read it points to the brown unit on the filter bracket to me. But i've been wrong once or twice before. And the info is not perfect. Good luck. Come back with what you find!!

OK. I've read through that thread. Error you posted in other thread: Oil Pressure Switch for reduced Oil Pressure P164D 00 [032] - Malfunction My concern is that description is very specific, and is the exact description used in the workshop manual for the lower oil pressure sensor on the oil filter bracket in both the self study guide and workshop manual. I.e. The brown unit. See above diagrams for F378. The two units are used due to the two stage oil pump pressure. My first instinct is wiring fault or replacement item faulty. My second instinct would be a genuine oil pressure out of range problem but ecu reporting switch faulty... My third instinct would be to try and replace the third one you had trouble locating but this is exlcusively for the piston cooling jet nozzles as far as I can read on the function.

Oh great. Good work. Only thing I will add, is, given that is the L3 oil pressure switch and the described function and purpose - I am assuming your error oil pressure switch code relates to oil cooling jet or something related. Maybe it is just general so it is a best guess on basis other two have been replaced. Oil cooling jet pressure monitoring seems to be the sole focus of that additional oil pressure switch!

Item 12 in this workshop manual diagram. Completely different location!!

Part 2 reply. Further to my initial reply. Looking at the self study vw guide, which is quite informative, although may not be 100% accurate on every engine derivative, it indicates what it calls a Level 3 oil pressure switch around the back of the engine, near the timing cover and exhaust cam (uk) driver side. It will be hard to see if it is there, because of the Turbo and the need to look up and over the back of engine... See below self study posting. What the guide also caveats with is, not all gen 3 ea888 derivatives have the piston cooling jet control system and this extra oil pressure sensor is there to monitor the functionality of that system activation. I.e. confirm piston cooling jets are getting oil at appropriate pressure when called for. I can say the golf r that i have does have the piston cooling jet system. As for Octavia vRS I would assume it does so, as mk7 golf GTIs have it but I can not guarantee it. Looking at parts listing for the Oct vRS for the N522 would confirm it. What is also a little strange is, in the Golf mk7 R workshop manual it seems to indicate the position of the L3 oil pressure switch is actually besides the waterpump on front of crank case. This clearly contradicts this self study location. I will post the workshop manual excerpt separately so you see what i mean.

The two on the filter bracket are high and low units usually blue and brown. Did you replace those with genuine items or known aftermarket products or pattern parts? I believe there maybe a third oil pressure sensor "level 3 sensor", on the front of engine near the water pump. I'll see if I can get a diagram off the self study program.

P268100 bypass valve is the thermal management control unit. I.e. electronic thermostatat. Had me questioning whether it was the solenoid stop valve with the description given in fault code (when the thermostat failed on me) but I can assure you it is. Unplug the solenoid valve and observe the desscriptor if you have cause to doubt. Your scenario also happened to me. Cct open means the ecu thinks it is not connected. And I was left with several possibilities 1. Ecu output to tcmu fried, 2. Wiring from ecu to tmcu plug 3. New tmcu faulty out of box. What it turned out to be in my case after partially disassembling the work again and then removing connector plug to tmcu is the o ring inside the plug had got rolled and had stopped the connector engaging properly even though I had pushed the grey tab down. That grey lock tab doesn't guarantee the connector has engaged properly!

Yeah. Gen 3s do run hot. You may find a vw502.00 5w40 oil may use a little less than Long life 3 5w30 oils. I'd say my golf r with an ea888 gen 3 uses about 1 litre per 5000 miles. It's done that since I got it at 55k miles now at 76k. You could also replace the fine oil separator, that may help. So long as it is not worsening I wouldn't worry too much. Try a vw502.00 oil as well. Some usage is certainly not unheard of. It does also depend as @Rootedsays, how correctly filled it was following service as well as to determine the top up volume. If slightly underfilled that would be increasing your view of recorded consumption...

There are a lot of mods mentioned.. stage 2, exhaust, intake.. The mk2 vrs facelift tsi or tfsi depending on whose terminology you use is the ea888 gen 2. Chain driven timing chain. Early edition tensioners were a nightmare for failure. If not done, you want to factor in new chain, tensioner and guides and it will be more than £500 I promise. Ea888 gen 2 could be prone to clogged scraper rings which led to excessive oil consumption and eventual failure. Very difficult to detect at early to mid stages until you've drive 1000 miles and refilled 1.5 litres of oil. As for value, don't know now. For context I had a 2011 fl vrs kombi, with nearly 70k miles completely stock, everything was neat and tidy and worked and sold for about £4k 2 years ago!!

What year is ghe car. Any chance the Bolero unit has been updated even though you think original. Have you tried a new canbus gateway. Maybe worth a try...

Points to wheel bearing. Maybe ask a garage to diagnose, before replacement, if unsure. Do you notice a difference in sound loading left to right side. Mild swerves, bends etc...