TheClient

From what I understand yes, in bluetooth tweeters seem overloaded / distorted. But also, OP explains smart link does not work when usb is connected. And usb connects and disconnects. Probably FW update is still a good place to start... See how they go with update....

I'll prod @pab567 he will have missed the updated info. On your latest message what is the translation on the message at the top of the smart link screen? If the usb connection is cycling it may be the phone or the usb interface in the car is faulty.

I've done a boot or two. Yes, it's a bit of a faff. Messy and you need those special pliers which I had to buy for the clamps...

They do have movement. What does it feel like compared to the otherside? Sounds more like a failure in balancing?

Yes, heat expands the bolt as it expands then contracts as it cools it can break the corrosion bond. Torch directly on the bolt or screw. Try a little bit first and be careful of overheating the whole area as there are provlbably plastic bits nearby like an oil sensor bolted to the pan. Also Any rubber sump gasket will be toast, so not too much heat. Try a little - see if it helps. Even getting the bolt it to operating temp, like 100c may help...

Or some heat with a torch but could not be done if you have a plastic sump.

True. But.... 1. The undertray won't hold 300ml plus oil. So it will Leak out via drainage holes. 2. With oil consumption issues, they can occur outside warranty as opposed to being there from purchase. As said, I would recommend pcv replace regardless. Good luck. Hopefully it won't be a piston ring or valve stem seal problem. The ea888 gen3 is complicated. Even a cam cover gasket is hours and hours work due to it being the integrated upper cam journal bearing mount as well...

Yeah. The front crank seal I think. I doubt it was leaking that much. Did you see oil on the ground? How much was in the undertray. Regardless, I would suggest replacement of a genuine pcv as maintenance. They are only really reliable for about 4 years 60 or 70k kms... What kms are on car?

The translation is not good. Sizing? Do you mean the pulley ring or the rear main seal? The mk3 1.8 is vastly improved regards oil usage but not totally immune. You need to discount all the other options first, a new genuine pcv would be a recommendation abd vw502.00 5w40 oil. Check for all oil leaks including head gasket at back of engine. Then, as others have suggested, either weigh oil in / out or put in specified quantity, make sure top of hatch, no more, wait till oil light or bottom of hatch, refill qty over what kms...then make a considered interpretation / decision..

Yeah ok. No harm done and eventually sorted. It's all so easy once you've successfully done it once. But it's tricky when it doesn't quite work and you can't understand why.. well done.

Oh. So you were trying to mount the carriers on the bars with the rubber installed in the track? Oh dear. A photo as asked for would of helped, they tell 1000 words, but the thule wing bar instructions also show cutting the rubber around anything mounted!! But glad you are up and running.

I'm not very experienced with the modern CR diesels but I have changed belts on old TDis. At least we have more confidence in what your mechanic is saying. If the belt is damaged but still intact as the car was still running hopefully it will be ok. But for it to be running badly it does sound like the timing had moved. So your mechanic needs to go through the diagnostic process. No body can really guess on here any better than you can. Rgds

If it's a vrs230 as a responder investigation indicates the main timing chains and balance shafts and oil pump are all chains. The only belt AFAIK is the waterpump drive. The gen 3 is far improved but not totally immune from timing chain stretch and very rarely compared to gen 2, tensioner failure can happen. Usually they warn by way of a correlation fault first and still run and there is no damage. If the engine has stopped and let go all of a sudden that is another matter. It does sound like the mechanic investigating and advising the op is either being misinterpreted or is not familiar with the engine and has not got very far into proper diagnosis.

Well, yes they need to be fairly parallel. Easiest way to do that is to align the bar feet with something on the car both sides. Or measure distance between two bars from both sides of roof. But doubt it would cause your lack of being able to secure the lock cams. Is there something caught up on the lever / cam of the bike racks. Need a photo of the racks t bolts when cam is released. Can you pull the bolt fully down with the cam open. what distance does it extend beyond bottom of rack. I could then compare to my rack for you. Something simple seems to be the most likely scenario but it is a bit perplexing....

Can't help really. I think ext most is external amp optical connection which sounds correct for your setup. @pab567 maybe able to help...

Possibly, what model / engine, transmission. What exact mileage? When was the previous service before this oil change service and what was it. Is the car on fixed interval or variable servicing?

Does the clip on the hose that is not seating right, need to pull all the way back past the notch to allow the pipe to be fitted in and then the clip pushed back to the tab where it belongs?

You could try disconnecting the power to vehicle again for an 1hour or more. It's a long shot though. The thing with ACC / front assist unavailable errors, is it can be the unit itself or, as I've experienced many times, any small engine fault, even where it is not noticeable driving, the car will disable assist. There is the third possibility, it is just having a hissy fit, but switching off the car always resolves hissy fits in my experience.

What fault code is it recording with the scan? Normally a temporary error that upsets front assist and acc will allow it to be used after a key cycle.

Need some photos I think of your bike carrier and maybe bar ends. With the lever cam fully open. How much t bolt is left under?

Have you lifted the end of the wing bar for access to the t profile track?

Those are the right dimensions of t bolt for thule wing bars. 2x61mm + 1 x 35mm. There are sone longer different styles bolts for the square profile bars... https://www.thule.com/en-gb/bike-rack/roof-bike-racks/thule-proride-591-_-591018

Are the springs fouling it? Take some side profiles of the t track bolt. Have you consulted thule instructions. There may be two length clamp bolts but I don't remember there definitely is. The t track would be a standard depth i would have thought. I've got a set but may take a few days to check.

Have you adjusted the lever clamp by turning. Clockwise to tighten, anti to loosen. They need to be set up when first installing and then a pretty much set.

All worthwhile trying. But it is a lot harder to identify the culprit esp in early stages these days with the integrated bearings. I had noticeable drone from a wheel. Tried loading un loading left and right sides, no difference. Jacked all wheels up, checked for deflection and spun them, couldn't tell. In the end I took it to a local garage and asked to diagnose. He struggled even with car in air, driving all 4 wheels and a stethoscope but said his best guess was nsr. He was right. I paid for the diagnosis.