TheClient

I've had a mk5 golf up to 9 years 65k, a vrs mk2 facelift to 10 yeara 75k, currently a mk7 75k 6.5 years old. All had original dampers. None showed any misting at all and that looks like what I'd call a leak for sure!!

It's hard on videos, sound recordings et al. especially if you don't own the same model engine for comparison. It does sound a bit rattly especially over on the left side facing front bonnet, it that where the timing chain or belt is? (Think I can see the timing cover there). What's the 29/5/23 date written on the engine cover? Why would it only have travelled 4k (edit 5k) miles in last 4 years? 14k first year by comparison?

They aren't going stiff, it's just the pressure inside the strut has been reduced so they don't offer as much force against the weight of the tailgate, which is substantial BTW. Safest approach is to have a second helper or a length of wood cut to size to support the tailgate in opened positioned. Or work with only one removed at a time holding the tailgate whilst the new one fitted if you can manage the one handed multi tasking and have everything arranged in reach. As for the clip, they may allow you to press on but clips need removing or pulling back to remove off ball joint. If you can't clip on, loosen or remove clip.

I would say they're sheet steel. Not aluminium as standard fitment, don't think they're cast either.

To apply variable service regime if car is set to fixed interval, requires a configuration change with a suitable diagnostics machine. Also, if it is set to variable already, you can not reset it without a suitable diagnostic machine. Variable regime is not 730 days only. It is up to 2 years with an oil quality algorithm that reduces from there. I would always recommend sticking to 12months / 10k for all cars. But sone engines, it is especially important.

Quite possibly, It is the 1.8tsi EA888 gen 2! 🙄 Or they have just found the replacement engine image and used it to ask the question. The upper timing cover is plastic and has a replaceable seal from memory. The lower cover bends on removal and is best replaced with new after removing and requires sealant applied.

As per @Warrior193 it is the upper timing chain cover. For the part number and new genuine part price you an use LLLP parts per @Breezy_Pete

In brief no chance Skoda will honour it now it has been partially repaired before. Even if they hadn't the corrosion perforation guarantee is weak and often not honoured. Trouble is, usually like any vw over the last 30 years that spot on guards is usually caused by corrosion from the inner guard area out. (build up of dirt and road salt around inner guard and guard liner surface or rubbing of guard liner makes it worse. So a common quick fix for sellers / garages it to tidy the surface up - repaint locally but it only lasts a year or so as you've found out. To fix properly will be a bigger job!

Is there a separate oil level and oil pressure light on these. There was on the mk2. Yellow was oil level.

Well first things first. I am assuming when referring to sphere bolts they are referring to a domed seat surface rather than say a flat seat. This link came up and whilst may not show every type and the naming convention may differ in some countries shows some key style differences.. https://engineeringlearn.com/9-types-of-lug-nuts-lug-nut-sizes-lug-bolts-vs-lug-nuts/ As for the second part of your question that may just be a generic descriptor for the lug nuts used commonly on say r13, r14, r15 rims. I'd always go with the thread diameter and pitch as you've listed as matching what you want. M14x1.5x27..

Crowds can be tough here sometimes! 😉 😉 Yes, OK. I'm just not sure why it's quite as noticeable as you say, when cold. Yes, revs are a bit elevated. Fuel mixture is richer, until target temps are reached. engine tolerances are tighter. Buts whats all the additional noise if its as significant as you indicate. If it had an aftermarket exhaust or res delete I'd also understand it more routinely. If the cars warmed up and you drive it around at 1100rpm like the cold fast idle speed, I'm feeling that you're saying it doesn't sound the same at all. I'm not sure what the answer is To be frank. Q: You're not in an underground car park when starting cold are you? That could make engine induction a lot more noticeable... and exhaust noise as well. If it was identical location for cold starts when you had the factory intake system then it must be just a consequence of the aftermarket intake set up. As several others posters have already pointed out...

I'm surprised the op is complaining just how noticeable the noise is only for 15 seconds though. Wouldn't one expect the induction noise to be very noticeable at wot in low gears like 1, 2 and 3, where road speed noise doesn't dull it out. I.e. under hard acceleration in low gears I would expect the significant increase in induction noise to also be present... even on a fully warmed up engine ( don't test hard acceleration, wot with a cold engine BTW.).

Use the Pro. I would avoid paying extra for the ultimate. One touch apps for long coding are very risky and results can be uncertain and difficult to unwind. Long coding is much more controllable.

Surely you should go back to TTE and ask can they supply the direct replacement. A extra port for a lamda sensor is one thing but the turbo actuation and boost control mechanism is another. It may not work properly with your ecu - that's a risk surely?

Yeah I'm still here but it is an old thread! There are some links to outside sources on the ring design on the ea888 gen 2 in the engine failures thread. Possibly also some other thread particularly on 1.8tsi excessive oil use. Or try googling ea888 gen 2 piston ring design failure etc. Possibly with 1.8tsi or 2.0tsi should find you some info. The scraper ring clogs with carbon and debris, that is the beginning of all the problems!!

Yeah. Can hear your metallic tinkley rattle. Have you tried holding the wastegate arm or propping it somehow to see if it stops it. What I do notice is the sound goes after a few seconds and I didn't think the wategate / actuator would be moving during a cold start at idle with no revving. Is there any noise from timing chain area. Hydraulic cam followers? They can rattle, not normally tinkle from my experience but maybe on this model.

Pretty sure they don't run a clutch. Haven't done so for 10 years maybe more. It's a variable displacement air con pump isn't it?

The golf r is an ihi is38 turbo. The 245 would be an is20 I'd say, that's what they are on all the other vrs varieties and the gti.

Have a look through this thread and the documents and attachments from @rayx . It covers some of the differences and applicabilty. For ccza 2.0tsi it was clear. The mfr cut off was 13.06.10. Pre 13.06.2010) VW suggests E => AC => AH (most current) And a different path for 14.06.2010 and later vehicles H=> AD =>AJ (most current). However, for 1.8tsi it does not differentiate and leaves only one part applicable. AH (lates revision then). This was was from listings and extracts of part listings and updates 6 years ago, and vw and audi also compared. There were differences! It is possible guidance could of been revised again now. It didn't make a lot of sense to us that the 1.8tsi didn't have both pcvs applicable for different manufacture dates in the same way as ccza. So it is a bit of a mess. It may have been updated now to reflect the 2010 mfr date. Maybe interrogate the parts desk a bit more with this information. The difference between 2 models of pcv fine oil separator, is the existence of an additional checkvalve. Not as clear as I thought for the 1.8tsi. All a bit of a mess 6 years ago....unless it is revised again. Even for ccza vw, audi, skoda listings differed which shows how things can get lost in simplification and part updates in listings.

Yes. All true. Very much not understood by VW parts departments, TPS, mechanics but there were 2 different designs and they were applicable to different manufacturing periods. I'll have to look up my notes for @rayx and get back to you what you need. But I remember enough to know / recall that AJ and AH are on different streams i.e. not appropriate for vehicles that build across the specified date... But, again, if you've got serious oil usage it is likely to be oil scraper rings design fouling, that has caused bore scoring... a very very common problem in gen 2 especially 1.8tsi

The list depends if you are buying genuine (vw), as the thermostat module and water pump and belt are listed separately and you need the thermal management module (also known as coolant regulator or electronic thermostat) in addition and the union to join the oil cooler. It is plastic with rubber o rings and joins between tmu and oil cooler - it should be replaced. On the other hand, the oem manufacturer ina supply the thermal control unit as one, with the pump already fitted and the belt in the one box and as one part. (The belt is a pita and I didn't replace as its very tricky getting to the bolt for the pulley on the balance shaft). So in addition to the ina thermal management module all you need is the union oh plus more coolant in either case. Thermal management unit = thermal management module = thermostat = coolant regulator = electronic thermostat. Its all the same thing a plastic box with a servo controlled sleeve that the ecu instruction when and how far to open. The only difference with aftermarket, as mentioned is some come including the water pump bolted up and included. Schematic and some explanation and a picture intact with water pump bolted up at: http://www.techtalk.ie/the-thermal-management-module/

Vag just got the scraper ring detail so wrong on this engine, oh and the early edition chains and tensioners. But when you don't have these issues raising their heads it was a very driveable engine and ticked a lot of boxes.

Big big job. Lots and lots of posts on here from others in same predicament. The latter parts of the engine failures ea888 sticky includes some. But lots of people who have got caught buying second hand cars and post their dismay after owning the car for a month and 300 miles and the oil light on. Leaves a very uneasy feeling in their stomach and they come on here hoping for reassurence. The advice is always invoke statutory protection and return car if bought from trader.... Whilst in the early stages, the car won't just stop. Eventually, the burning oil will kill the engine one way or another whether it be burnt valves, sticking valves carboned up, lack of cylinder compression (happens very late on and is not evident in earlier stages). One day it will just not work anymore. and no one can tell you when exactly.... Petrol engines are not designed to burn 1litre in 500 miles. Especially if it has manifest presently in one cylinder, that is going to fail in the not too distant future. But in all likelihood, although plugs are not fouled yet, other cylinders are probably passing oil, just not as bad ... yet. Its a steep slope once it takes hold.

Tyre or wheel bearing. If it started all of a sudden and tyres are new kn good condition. I'd say wheel bearing. You can try loading up on side of car to determine if sound changes.

Did mine on a golf R a month or so ago. Same thermal control module. Same gen 3 engine save for turbo and some other bits and pieces. Mqb so pretty similar job I imagine. I Pulled throttle body feed rigid pipes off and throttle body and rad electric fan bracket off. Still access was a pain every bolt was a pain to get a torx bit and ratchet on. it it took me two days. Especially painfull when I put it mostly back together at end of day 1 and it still had the same static fault code indicating the thermal management unit electronics were fried or open cct!!! Turned out the sealing ring on the electrical connector had got rolled or swelled and stopped the connector going on properly even though i pushed in the lock tab it wasnt bottomed out!! Good luck.