TheClient

Get someone to follow you is easiest solution if you don't trust what is written! 😃

Yep, I think it is a characteristic of enough vehicles that it is significant to get comments and threads but not all. But yes, I would think there is a decent chance that replacing the turbo it is possible for the replacement unit to do it....... Don't worry about it! Drive with the windows up. Get a louder exhaust or stereo!! 😉

It's a characteristic of the car!! 🫥. That's what VAG maintained for quite a while until the released the clip on the gen 2!!!

Based on what I replied here in this thread, with a photo of both turbos it won't fit! 😒...... And to me on the vid file in the attached thread, it is moving in the bushings internally as well...

It wouldn't surprise me if it did fit. They are still using an IHI turbo and it just clips over the pivot. Are you 100% sure it is the wastegate? Other sellers will be available this was the first I came accross.

On the gen 2 there was a clip you could install over the rod pivot point where the rod connects the wastegate arm. I used it on a mk2 fl. It was mildly successful. Although it only reduced the rattle and if the wastegate lever is rattling in the bushes it won't do anything. The clip "may" fit on a mk3 as well. check photos.

Yes, as @Rooted said a few more details would help. Normal things first, check tyre pressures, do wheel alignment if you have no history. Check dampers / springs. On the estates I've had, Mk2 FL and now a Golf Mk7 R both have the multi link rear, and they are pretty sure footed, mid corner bumps and alter the line a little but much improved compared to a live beam axle. Wheel alignment will affect it quite a lot on its own.

EA888 gen two? 1.8tsi? What's the engine code CDAA or CDAB? It doesn't sound good. Plugs can work loose if not properly torqued to spec through heat cycles. But it would not cause oil build up. If anything you get bore wash and misfires with eventual cylinder shut down. What do the rest of the plugs look like? Photos would help. What is the oil usage per x kms or x miles?

Ok. In the very short term I would try and reduce the Bluetooth volume on phone down from 100pc and see if it improves things. as to AA problem, I’m not sure it sounds like it may not be activated. There are two experts I know of on here on things like that, @pab567 and @langers2k. They may see this post now. You should bring up your head unit software / firmware on the infotainment screen and photo and post here…

When the phone is plugged in and you go to android auto is the an option list or settings button on the car screen that lists devices? What year is the car. Is android auto definitely activated on the mib system. Try another phone?

Mine has done something like that with android auto before. What i needed to do was plug it in, let it show reading usb or phone message or something on screen, then go to screen where it allows you to select between apple car play / aa. Then I think there is an option on that screen to select device, choose your phone and then either it should work or you select AA again.. Did you try reducing Bluetooth level BELOW 100% ?

I've got a golf R dq250 dsg I.e. 6 speed. With a jb4 tuning box. My lifetime 3 Yr average of very mixed driving is 28mpg. Long motorway keep to 70 and i can see 38mpg... I'd say you're in the range, replace airfilter and sparkplug are the only 2 things you can probably do to improve but doubt it will alter it.... Good maintenance though...

Ok. Can you turn off bluetooth and stream via phone plugged into usb a say via Android auto or apple car play. Try that with your phone and maybe another. Edit: also, if your streaming via bluetooth, what level do you have the phone volume at assuming that affects overall volume level. Try at say 75% not 100% level... Could be overdriving the input.

If the electrical fault is permanent you need to replace the n428. Edit. And or check wiring. It won't really damage anything short term, that's probably why no mil is commanded. With the n428 not operating, I believe the default state is high or rather normal pressure mode. Not reduced pressure mode. That won't operate...

Yes. That's the purpose of the two pressure switches. They regulation valve controls the pump as dictated by ecu to toggle between reduced and full pressure mode.

The piston cooling jet regime is additional and has its own pressure switch in a different locatikn to detect operation. It can activate in either reduced or full pressure mode.

There is a reduced pressure switch and a normal pressure switch. Both only detect below spec pressure. Depending on if the pump is in reduced pressure mode or normal pressure mode.

It's purpose is to allow the oil pump to run at reduced or normal pressure.

Oh right. Ok, it's not brakes then. It's hard to make out on the video. You may be better to open bonnet or get under car whilst idling. Of ccourse take precautions, Car wheels chocked, handbrake fully on. Do not put hands near any drive belt or pulleys. Suspect it may be an aircon or tensioner pulley but just guessing really in the idle scenario with engine ticking over.

Second video sounds like brakes dragging a bit on discs. Pretty common try dabbing brakes. If it stops that's what it is. A few hard stops may fix for a while or brakes may need a strip down and clean....

Yes, totally. It does seem strange to me compared to how the 2l ea888 gen 3 shows oil temp behaviour in my car. And normally I would expect it to behave very similarly given the same architecture and common parts. But as @gm73 says, I wouldn't worry about it...

It should normally be calibrated at point of manufacture assembly. All the voltage tells you is where the actuator should be adjusted at rest. So if they can't adjust it maybe it faulty or gone faulty. Probably just the actuator but they're replacing the whole turbo.... often vag won't list actuators separately although often available on aftermarket from oem supplier...

Because it is a gen3, assuming correct it will be the electromechaincal thermostat. They are very responsive. Despite their tendency to only last 60k miles. My Golf R regulates temp very quickly you can even monitor servo actuator position on the thermostat as the ECU see's it. My oil temp on motorway varies pretty closely 102C to 107C. Unless I press very hard. Don't tend to monitor coolant temp as closely but from memory it regulates around 103C

It's definitwly possible to damage voicecoils on tweeters in right (or wrong) circumstances but we are making educated guesses. Probably needs removing driver units in door card assembly and proving with an alternative tweeter if it can't be resolved and proven via other fault testing.. Clipping is an overdrive scenario usually the result of excessive volume levels or input sensitivity mismatch. Are you, OP, turning up volume on phone to near max when streaming audio and then using the car system volume. That is usually what works best when not connected directly via Aa or apply car play and streaming via bluetooth. AFAICR the Canton package would include an enhanced amplifier, in addition to driver specification which is normally accomplished via an outboard unit but I wouldn't bet my life without confirming via googling or someone who has it. Edit. To OP. Canton amp definitely under passenger seat. So wiring to speakers will come from there at origin.

Suspect the compatability list is static with what was out at time. If the problem is not apparent at rear I'd say it is likely tweeters damages or it could be back up the chain like amp or head unit. But as only front channels faulty seems unlikely. If you fade to front fully. Then balance left to rght and centre is the crackling iidenticalin both channels? If its both tweeters faulty I'd expect the fault may be similar but not identically timed on both sides....