TheClient

No experience of that engine at all but.. generally. 1. A proper diagnostic read may be useful 2. If still no codes, live data misfire data may tell you which cylinder it is or if it is across all 3. If cylinder specific, coil packs, plugs or injectors are all possibilities. Usually, you can swap out plugs or coil packs on the problem cylinder, one item at a time, and see if problem moves. If it does, it's the item you just moved. If it doesn't move its something else on that cylinder..

The 1.2tsi and consequentially the transmission is not a combination that is talked about much on here. Many on here may not be as familiar with it as compared to the other bigger volume combinations. Take from that what you will. As @Gazpoints out, there was an oil change campaign on the dq200. There have been problems with mechatronics failures, clutch packs wear more quickly than the wet type. Some people see no problems though. Overall, if it is the 7sp dry clutch dq200 in the 1.2tsi, i'd say they have proven less reliable than dq250 6sp wet clutch dsg, but that doesn't mean you'll definitely have a problem. The reference tag should be to @tootin previous poster comments I believe.

I had a 2011 vrs mk2fl. They are the same ea888 gen 2 design as the 1.8 with some minor differences and variable valve timing. Neither are belt driven, except maybe the water pump. All main timing is via chain and chain tensioner and rails. Chains are used for oil pump drive and balance shafts as well. If there is no record or evidence of ever having been replaced, despite "good for life" and no interval skoda comments, that life may not be very long in your ownership!. The parts are subject to multiple revisions. I don't know why, but anecdotally the 1.8 seemed to report more cases of severe oil usage but both are susceptible aa they're the same design. The fix would not be economic of cars of this type / age now. When I sold mine at about 75k mile / 10 years it was running well. No excessive oil but not all demonstrate that. A compression test often won't show issues until the problem advances and becomes terminal. Hence it can catch a lot of people out. Only real way to know is to monitor or even better measure oil usage over decent fixed distance, say 1000km plus. You'll therefore likely be relying on your 30 day return warranty. Not many traders do 1000km test drives! Make sure they're a reputable trader. In dsg the 2.0 vrs tsi used the dq250, so a more reliable box than the dq200 but requires filter and oil changes. I realise you've said the one you are looking,at is manual. Clutch life would be one key question there. Beyond that they are platform / age service life issues really that should be inspected with almost any used car purchase. Plenty of other platform posts on mk2 / mk2fl purchase things to check. But the engine is a biggy.

Have you seen the sticky on 1.8 / 2.0tsi engine failures. This is the car you are looking at. Two things 1. Timing chain tensioner / timing chain stretch leading to catastrophic failure 2. Piston scraper ring clogging leading to excessive oil usage and eventual failure. Oh and 3. is the dq200 @toot has referred to in addition to normal areas of attention on a 100k 12 yr old car. The first 2. Items are very hard to predict.

When I removed mine of my mk2fl when i had it several years ago to replace, it broke my puller. Couldn't get it off with molegrips. Had to carefully cut through the alloy collar with a mini hacksaw!! It was well well corroded on the splined shaft.

Good work. Looking at the photos, I was going to suggest checking the oilfilter housing and bracket and oil cooler connected to it, as they are in pretty close proximity to the alternator and drive belt and higher up (so oil can drop down). You know how oil splatters once it gets near a drive belt, it can be hard to locate source without cleaning up and monitoring. Anyhow, may help the responder asking how you got on, I'd their problem is not the crank pulley seal.

Trace the relay to fuse and relay to fuel pump connections. Are you sure you got the right relay location?. Did the pump stop with the relay removed for example. If its a diesel the priming routine is off the ignition key, rather than door open, so could be a problem there.

£2,500 seems like a lot to separate and remove the gearbox and replace the bolts with extra locking or sealing fluid. I'm not 100% sure if that quoted figure includes the replacement clutch and flywheel (just in case) but even if it does, it's an expensive clutch change without much in the way of extra work than would normally be done for a clutch and flywheel change anyway. But agree, the primary issue is "who's problem is it" as the OP has asked. I do have a lingering question as to how genuine is Hawco is, or could they be speculatively raising this? Did you see the extent of the oil leak between the gearbox and engine. They can't see in there without dismantling so they can't be 100% sure what it is yet, but understandably refer to a TPI if it appears to fit and point to it...

They're trying to run rings around you clearly and take you for a ride. If they agree the problem was pre-existing they're caught by the statutory warranty provisions under consumer rights act. If it wasn't then one of the two warranty cover policies ought to cover it either by an override provision or both accepting a partial liability. I have never heard of an insurer saying because there is two policies that may cover it, then no cover applies. That make no sense. Perhaps the consumer right act is a clearer way to go, you'd have to prove the fault or the vulnerability was there from your purchase which would requie some indpendent engineering assessment. what is the actual fault in the TPI I couldn't find anything hits coming up on that? Probably rear main seal? Edit. found a russian TPI extract on 2051464/3 Translated from russian. Technical rationale The cause of this leakage is a thread defect (manufacturing) in the crankshaft cover for fastening the flywheel. As a result, an oil leak occurs, despite the sealing of the fastening bolts (see Fig. 2). An example in fig. 2 serves only as an aid in evaluating the establishment of an oil leak. In this case, oil leakage is caused by the formation of threads in the crankshaft cover. There is no leakage of the crankshaft cover itself (see Fig. 2, red oval)!

I'm not sure to be honest. I can see the 3lpm mentioned in your link and I found another forum guide that mentioned 3lpm plus. However, looking at a few replacement lift pumps the specs seem to vary. The few that provide flow, I saw some variation from 2.42lpm to 3.6lpm. Which is quite a divergence and would put your lift pump bang on the lower spec, if correct and acceptable. The other thing that is likely important is pressure, have you tested bypass pressure with a guage? Re flow rate spec - all I can think of is you need a vw repair guide to list it for mk5 golf or Oct ii bkd. Maybe Google will find something uploaded online. Or you could pay for 1 hour erwin access assuming they still have historic guides from that period available. Sounds like a right nightmare with repair shortcuts. That's why I like to do everything I can myself. At least I know what shortcuts I've taken, if any. Do replacement studs come with the belt kit, I thought I recall seeing some do?

Exactly as per mine including the error code. £660 is a bit of a bargain. The oem part is schaeffler ina made. Yours will probably be aftermarket, same as what I put in. Should be more or less identical. Is about £300 or more on its own,! For that price I may not have dealt with the backache and hassle of doing it myself. It's very reasonable.

Agree with @ApertureS. Condition for costemtics, scratches, respray were all negotiation points before purchase but now, that point has past. Faults, on the other hand, as said statutory warranty - first 30 days gives a right of return so if you're really not happy with car anymore you could possibly use one of the provable faults as a return reason. You need to commence that with selling dealer within 30 days. After 30 days, inside 6 months, it's assumed the fault was present from start and selling dealer has to repair, beyond that, its up to you to prove faults were present from start. Don't get distracted by any warranty insurance policy they've thrown in with sale... To be honest. It doesn't sound that bad but as you point out some people are more careful with their cars than others. A 4 year old car with that low miles can vary cosmetically quite a lot by attitudes of owner or keeper.

Sure, you've been doing your best to sort out the issues. You've been trying the specialist route which can save you money and can work out well but as you've also found out, not so well when there are multiple faults in different areas... Youur specialists haven't really got edit near to the bottom of everything going on and as their name suggests have stuck to their limited remit. Let's just say it did have a turbo fault, and that's fixed now and that money and repairs sailed now. So that's behind you. So, your still stuck with the coolant consumptikn which maybe a number of things as described by @T07 but needs a mechanic with some clues to diagnose. The oil usage surely is immense. And as pointed out, unless they've pulled a fast one on you, can't be the turbo. I seem to remember the op already posted it's not landing on the floor. So that leaves being burned.... and that should be noticeable. Common culprit on these engines as rings isn't it? What's the engine code - the letters at start of engine number? A forum like this is good, useful, especially for fixing problems others have experienced. Dealing with multiple things and faults at the same time is harder on a forum though... there's also possibilities of some symptoms being linked. I think what you really need is a mechanic you can trust, with some experience on these engines and ask him / her to inspect and advise what is required to put it right... maybe you have to pay just to get that assessment but if they're good it will be money we'll spent and help you decide what to do next... Its a shame it's already cost you north of £2k but your either gonna have to spend some more money likely or off load it and get something else!! I doubt with what your experiencing, it is only one single fault remaining unfortunately.

Yep. Maybe they call it a TMCU (or a TMU) either way, it is exactly as you imagine. A big lump of plastic with a main valve inside operated by a servo motor, shafts with plastic bushes all controlled by a pcb (and the instructions from the ecu). I also believe there are another 2 bypass valves of some sort, mechanical or eletro mechanical inside, I'm not sure. It's a pita to get to. A pita to Reinstall - there's a floating plastic union pipe that has to be aligned blind to the oil cooler, the locater lugs for the body can only be used by feel carefully whilst leaning a pretty big lump of plastic in under the manifold. There is a massive intake manifold all sitting above it, unless you remove that as well! I was so fed up with the job after I put it all back together and still had a permanent fault I threw the old unit in the bin - no strip down and look inside.... It didn't half smell either from the fried Cct board. What was the fault I hear you ask, well, when I plugged the thermostat back in, it turned out, unknown to me at the time, the plug ring seal had got rolled and caught up and it stopped the plug seating home. I didn't know that until everything was back together. Required me to strip out the rad fans and a main rad hose again oh and the dreaded intercooler pipework that runs along the lower front edge of engine behind the rads. Two bolts in very tricky locations whilst laying on my back on a gravel drive! Took me 2 days in the end. To save maybe £500. Joys!

I'm not sure what the technical reason was, but using later model oem entertainment units or most aftermarket ent units using can bus resulted in the entainment unit staying active and nit shutting down. This meant flat batteries when you went to drive off. The later revision gateways resolved this.

If it was a portable audio cd audio player it would work via the aux socket. But the entertainment jnit has no ability to control and instruct that laptop cd rom drive despite the USB being plugged in.

The OP hasn't said its a tdi like has been assumed and there's no car info in a signature. Looking back at an old post, I think it's the petrol vrs ea888 gen 3. Anyway, despite this, exactly the same comments apply as already made by responders. I've just replaced our at 75k, 6.5 years. Bit of a pain of a job on ghe drive. Having seen first hand the TMU in all its glory I wouldn't expect any different than another 6 years or 70k for the new one, maximum. Mine was leaking pretty small amounts through the plastic shaft bushes and leaked into the pcb housing and fried the electronics. There's a lot of rotational movement by servo motor running due to the constant adjustment to optimise engine temps and warm up and the design just isn't made to last forever. Consider it a maintenance item and you did well to get 9 years.

Ps as it happens I have recently got a VW golf mk5 as a second car and have thought about possibly splashing something for a head unit. I don't want to spend much. One options that was fairly well regarded 5 plus years ago was the RNS315 as it came with satnav, bluetooth and usually dab. But by todays expectations, the screen is small and the sat nav will be probably slow and mapping old (without an updated card if available) and it won't support expectations like Android auto or Apple play. Still if I can find some £££ it would probably do me for bluetooth and handsfree and mp3 playability... Out of interest how much is the alpine unit. Is there trim to support the single din? From recall there was skoda single din trim available with a cubby hole but not sure how readily available it is now!!

Yeah, that the Skoda part number format, what I have was VW, but they were interchangeable parts. Not sure why they use different part numbers on some items but keep vw on others. Anyways.... On VW can gateway, I found out over revision L in 2008 was the cutover. Your newish skoda gateway is bound to be ok I would say.

If you have the full part no with the suffix that can be tied back. For example, I know 1K0907530AD was an updated revision that worked, as I bought one and checked my emails for the part number. Earlie versions for example C,D had battery drain but without some trawling I can't remember the exact transition... If you know your full part number I'll try and cross check or do some googling yourself if you feel lucky! Around 2008 was the cutover, so as long as the new gateway was after 2008....

If the canbus module edit: "can gateway" edition is a late edition one, then the issue will be resolved already. Was a second hand one fitted, do you know the revision? You may need to scan or read the revision off the module and compare to some postings from a few years ago that specify the cut over for can bus gateway modules that solved the issues, sorry I can't remember off the top of my head. Certainly for factory unit upgrades, say going to the RCD510 from the RCD300, 2006 mfr cars were affected in absence of a can bus module edit: upgrade.

Good find. The tapping was a bit of a red herring. Just enough to make the wire connect enough for a start....

From what I can see, that oil looks very clean, I'd say it has been changed for preparing for sale with few miles on it. As to what they used or what spec say 507.0 or 508.00 it is, I can't tell that from the photos!! 😉 I've said / suggested what I'd do but it is up to you if you want to book it in for services and cambelt change and other services without actually knowing or investigating anything first...

I would at least get the noise inspected and as per @toot ask if there is evidence the timing belt has been renewed, is there any phase diagnostics check that can be checked. There are diagnostics for some engines but they tend to vary engine generation by engine generation. I wouldn't say you have to get a full inspection done unless you are doubting other aspects as well but an initial check of the operational noise before 6 months would be wise. See if any others with the 1.5act reply back on here as to what they hear relative to their motor noise as well... I Edit. Ps what does the oil on dip stick actually look like?

It's all about building a picture and being comfortable with answers. Yes, I agree they'll be less interested in answering questions on why so low miles, why 3 keys but if there is are possible faults they're on the hook for statutory warranty under consumer rights. First 30 days, if there is a fault you had right to return. First 6 months, faults assumed there at purchase. The date could be an oil change date. What does the oil look like on the dip stick? Edit 4 years is a long time without an oil change.. what is recorded on the .gov mot history for the car? Must be at least 2 mots shown and mileage at dates? If ghe noise is worrying you and doesn't seem right, now is the time to take to either a skoda or vw skoda focused independent and ask to check and report back. Preferably with something in writing the result of investigation. They should put that on the invoice/ report routinely anyway. Do not leave it 6 months, then get it checked and find out you've got a significant issue. It will be much harder to deal with in your favour.