TheClient

Reminds me of a true story I've blocked out from my youth. I learnt to drive in a manual as well in a southern hemisphere location. Maybe that makes a difference! I also was told to leave cars in neutral on flats. Not on steep hills. Anyway, I digress, so when I first got my licence I used my mum's car which was quite a new honda prelude from the mid 1990s with 4WS. The car was automatic as my mum only drove automatics. 2 factors combined to create a rather embarrassing incident when i was about 17 or 18. At the girlfriends house, at the top of a steep hill I had hastily exited the vehicle. Handbrake on. Car I thought put into park. Actually because of the press button transmission release I had stopped short and it was in R. So after about 20 mins as the car had a tendency, the handbrake would start slipping on the rear disks unless pulled on very hard.. A knock on the door, some neighbours came by to say the car had rolled down the hill and badly taken out one car which bumped into another... It was quite a long way down that steep hill and none of the cars were writeoffs but it was not a cheap incident for the insurers and was not my proudest moment...

Pretty wet here at the minute. Id go so far to say very wet. If you trace the other end then I or you or others can trace a parts diagram - hopefully. The other possibility is someone looks with same engine car!!

What’s the connected end plugged into.?

Some further good explanation and description in here. They say 100mb for the EA888 but i have some repair documents with photos documenting 25mb. In any case it is a lot lot less negative, than manifold engine vacuum. http://karmakanix.com/knowledgebase/engines/gas-engines-vw-audi/2-0t-engine-tfsi-fsi-audi-vw/2-0t-oil-consumption-pcv-breather-valve/

Yes. the vacuum present should be no where near as high as manifold vacuum at idle. I tried measuring vacuum with a normal engine vac gauge on my EA888 engine and couldn't get any reading. I was told the pcv vac at idle in my engine is supposed to be about 25 millibar...

Op. No experience of this issue here, but as you say, it has to be coming from intake manifold and that means faulty pcv doesn't it? https://www.golfmkv.com/forums/index.php?threads/high-crank-case-vacuum.147042/ Did you replace the pcv with a new, genuine part?

Yes, I've got the original bosch photo somewhere I changed at 37k. They looked much the same. Insulator or eletrode nice and clean. No carbon fouling around electrodes. No signs of overheating. These are a standard heat rating 7 NGK plug too. Compare that to the way the (edit Bosch 7) which is an NGK 5 equivalent, i.e 2 heat grades higher. Look in the thread on engine failures whilst still installed in the head with it on the bench. Clearly the engine in that post is consuming significant oil. OP - do you have photos of your plugs, have you removed to inspect. With that oil usage they probably won't be pretty.

Changed plugs at beginning of August. These had done about 30k miles. Clean and operating ok. But gap had increased to about 0.9mm..

Hi welcome @OctaviaVRS1980. Just to set the scene, I have the same year and model car having owned it from 2016 when it had 33k miles. I also researched the engine and issues before buying and I was very careful having read these forums and GTI mk6 forums which share the same engine. But it was still a risk. You probably don't want to hear what my view is but it based on a lot of reading and lot of posts and the sticky thread at the front of mk2 forum on engine failures. The EA888 gen 2 is a problematic engine in a couple of ways - as your mechanic points out. 1. The tensioners, multiply superseded could result in total engine destruction in the blink of an eye. They were poorly designed, poorly engineered and could end the car in a blink of an eye. If your engine still has the original revision made with the car you are on a when, not if scenario... 2. This generation engine in both 1.8 and 2.0 vRS guise had terrible ring design specifically the scraper rings which become clogged and eventually cause horrific oil consumption which then causes all the other problems with that and eventual engine failure. Anecdotally, it seems to me more 1.8 have been affected but maybe jsut because there are more in circulation. There is aslo TPIs covering the 1.8 with modified pistons, conrods and rings which is a big job indeed to rectify. I have not seen an equivalent TPI for the 2.0. So take from that what you will. My engine is at 70k miles, it has always been on fixed servicing 7k - 8k miles. I run VW 502.00 5W40. which may improve your consumption a little but given the readings I wouldn't be too hopeful! Mine had a visible oil leak around the turbo air intake that used to drip onto the drive shaft. Eventually after rulling everything else out a new Fine Oil separator / PCV fixed that. Some more technically minded and engineering centric posters have explained to me TPIs from other europe destination prescribed a specific ACEA rating for engine oils which from memory was A3 Mid saps to help with carbon cleanliness. They also prescribed time and distance servicing only - to manage issues. So those are factors that if not followed can make the situation worse earlier... So back to your 3 options. 1. It is only worth going down testing if you are willing to spend money. Even if it was head work only, which I doubt it is, guessing Oz pricing maybe $2k and up. Much more if rings and bore need work... You also need to consider if you have a garage who is technically competent and experienced as they are a very complicated engine to work on. I also would not work on the basis of compression tests being totally definitive. Many oil consumers have reported decnent compression until the oil consumption became totally horrific as the sealing rings still provide compression but huge amounts of oil passess. I would also check turbo seals to rule that out as a contributor if I was doing diagnostics. 2. She will die eventually and almost 1l of oil in under 1000km is a lot of oil. The engine can not cope with that if it is being burned. 3. The easiest option, but someone else will end up with your problem! edit. Mine uses 0.5 to 1L in service intervals up to 8k miles. I don't always top up over that duration, the oil light does not come on but if I don't it will be towards the bottom of dipstick. Hope that helps.

Ideally standing voltage after overnight rest without drain I.e. ideally canbus asleep. Which would necessitate running some wires from the terminals to outside the car so it doesn't need unlocking or bonnet up..

OK. Yes you are right. So, those are not the mfr specified correct plug. They are two heat grades higher (bosch higher number higher heat). They are also different design, (twin ground electrode) the gap is 0,9mm rather than 0,7mm for genuine OEM 06H 905 611. The spark position is 4mm from my research may be 1mm different from OEM replacement part. After market equivalents can vary in the catalogue slightly from OEM even from the same manufacturer so don't use their specs as absolute gospel but they should be serviceable as replacement. So, questions that come to me: i) Why use a non specified plug? ii) Why 2 grades higher? iii) Has it caused the damage? You may need to check with the original service agent to fully answer i) and their rationale. IF it has caused piston / engine damage then they are on the line, it is itemised on their invoice after all and they decided to fit them!! My theory starts with your service agent changing the heat grade on the plugs +2 because they could see significant carbon fouling. It is a slippery slope to try and manage oil usage by going up heat ranges. Eventually the engine will say enough is enough from the oil burning... I have a further theory, and it is borne out of many many posts with engine trouble on the EA888 gen 2 engines, especially 1.8TSis. Theory 2. The oil consumption in your car is significant enough to cause problems after 8 years or more. OK, so 1l in 1000 miles doesn't sound ridiculous - but if it is not even, e.g one or 2 cylinders is using most of that oil, then it becomes more significant. Also, depending on the mileage, the effect of even 1 Litre every 3 or 4 fill ups is a lot of oil being burned over the life to date, over 60, 70 100k miles. 100 litres being burned? The root cause is the design (poor) design of the scraper rings which clog and then fail. The problem gets worse and worse, more and more oil passes into the combustion chamber, carbon build up worsens on valves and top of piston, excess heat is generated from burning oil, cat and o2 sensors can become soiled. So, my theory is your repairing garage has misdiagnosed the problems. There are TPIs for changed design pistions, rings and conrods. They thought the damaged valves and carbon build up were normal DI by products, so recommended reconditioning the head. But the pistons and rings could have been well beyond service limits on one or more cylinders and this was actually a key cause for the damaged head. Following the repairs, the oil usage has continued to such a degree one cylinder has burnt valves again or the piston / rings have entirely stopped sealing in the bore. Question for you: How much oil have you put in 800 miles or how much is shown on dipstick now? How many miles has she done? My recommendation would be to talk to the service dealer again and see what they say. Then talk to the repairing garage again and based on what the service garage say put it to them that they have repaired the head on a dead engine that required full recon or engine exchange. If they resist helping, then you may need to get an independent (different from the other 2 repairers) engineer report indicating the fault now and the root cause. Looking at your head off photo, to be honest all the valves and spark plugs look heavily carbon contaminated. I don't know how many miles the plugs had done then, but it would be a warning sign to me that the plugs are wrong, and 2 heat ranges higher and still carbon fouling. To me that says excessive oil usage......... You can see the plugs and their twin electrode. Certainly cylinder 1 and 4 at either end look very carboned up. To be honest all 4 are. Presumably the oil in the second cylinder is from leak checking. The resolution doesn't show on here but maybe the original resolution will. Is the electrode damaged on the 3rd cylidner to the right of page? Sorry it is a real pain. And the root cause is the terrible engineering and design of those rings by VAG. Such a fundamental thing that they should of been able to get right but seemingly did not...

To my mind the evap error is separate to the camshaft position sensor unless a faulty ecm is driving both errors but it would seem unlikely. Did you replace the evap solenoid with a new genuine part? If so it must be wiring or, seemingly a lot less likely ecm fault. The camshaft position sensor faults on a and b camshaft seem far to coincidental to be both faulty at same time. Have you checked oil level is good? Or if that is ok, maybe timing chain stretch or slip but I've not heard of many of those incidents on the gen 3....

I'll have a look at the spark plug spec but unless the heat range was majorly hotter or the wrong projection caused it to come into contact with the piston, I can't see that being a valid reason. I take it the yeti uses oil?

It's hard to be categorical. I don't have the full back story either. Was it tensioner failure that caused the head to be rebuilt? How long had you had the car? When was it last serviced and by whom? Can you tell when plugs were changed from service records? You should compare the technical details of that plug to the official Bosch replacement but I am sceptical that a different plug is the root cause. And yes, they had to remove the plugs to recon the head. Why refit incorrect parts? What was their condition upon refitting? Why weren't they replaced if damaged?. Why would they suddenly cause damage after a rebuilt head and not before? So what is the cause of cyl 4 compression now? Burnt valves or cylinder/ ring problem?

What engine? It would be advisable to take it to the repairer who changed the turbo. In case it is a faulty turbo. But otherwise a faulty control solenoid or vacuum operation are most likely. Potential causes for this code to set are: Faulty boost pressure/ turbocharger position sensor Failed turbocharger/super charger Defective control solenoid Wiring problems Faulty PCM Vacuum leaks if the valve is vacuum controlled Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0047 Copyright OBD-Codes.com

Yes, a good turbo rebuilder will be able to check it. They may want to remove the turbo though to inspect and bench test. Give a few a call. I don't have any experience of using one but there was a good crowd mentioned on here a year or two back to rebush a 2.0tsi octavia turbo Westgate. Dealers just change the whole turbo... To test your over boost theory at small cost. Get a cheap obd dongle buy torque app or similar. Take a passenger with you to monitor boost in the situation the problem occurs. Also scan for faults. To do it more thoroughly search for a member with vcds and log data when the fault occurs.

The usual problem is people misidentifu where fuse 24 is on rhd vehicles. Fuse 24 supplying cigarette lighter should be 25 amp.

They're integrated together. Edit. They're mounted together the pump and ecu. The ecu rebuild shop will separate. https://www.ecutesting.com/product-catalogue/skoda/octavia/abs-pump-ecumodule-combined/

The cold air rather than warm air from ventilation system could well be related to the coolant valve or a thermostat.

I doubt the op will want to do the timing belt - that was my question and suggestion as well. They say they are selling or returning the car soon. I suspect it will become someone else's problem, so we may see come up again.

There Is usually an inspection plug to view the chain tensioner. There is on ea888 engines anywsy. Have they viewed the tensioner? If it's fully extended the chain has stretched and the tensioner will eventually be unable to cope. I am unsure of the exact tensioner design on 1.2 two but if it is hydraulic it probably similar to the ratchet hydraulic system that had a lot of problems in the past..

If you can't find the leak by careful inspection and shop towel. By the way removing the undergrad for a day or two might help. Then a the next step could well be pressure test cooling system for several hours and maybe compression test too. Ps what model engine and transmission. Coolant pumps and oil cooler lines can be placed that are quite obscured and usual suspects...

Could it not be timing chain tensioner and guide problem then. They seem to be saying as much. Are they replacing those? Is the car still disassembled?

No. Leaks!

Interesting. I can see the logic @varaderoguy lays out. But in the ross tech forum even with the sleeve stuck, solenoid inoperative and car overheating the enginr still operated. I'm not convinced but I'm far from always right. but a 70 Euro replacement of the n489 solenoid will prove it and a check of electrical wiring continuity to solenoid.