TheClient

The photos posted by @roaddetective look like what I would expect. The underseal on the sills is noticeable, and has an edge line, but not ridiculously thick. Guess I'd have to see some photos of the vehicle you are looking at. Even then, it may be hard to detect what your are talking about without being there in person. I have a paint depth gauge, which would point to the amount of panel filler used. But just because a car has a repaired panel or replaced door or wing, I wouldn't let that turn you off the total vehicle. But as you say, it depends on how well the repair has been carried out.

Yes, you could disassemble the intake Tract and that flexible connector and see how much oil residue is there. It would also allow you to clean up any seepage. But, it is probably unnecessary. Without a doubt, there will be oil vapour passing from the pcv to the intake. It has to. Unless the FOS valve is 100% blocked or split. And you'd probably notice that. The reason it builds up in the intercooler pipe connection is that 1) the intake charged air is cooled slightly, will cause some condensate of oil vapour and 2) it is the last and lowest part of the intake air before entering the inlet manifold. And the tb is on a vertical so any oil residue on pipework will run back to the lowest point. Maybe remove the connections to the ic and drain out what you can.. As you have said, it could be the turbo but you would probably notice other symptoms.

Regardless, I would replace the fine oil separator with a genuine part. Be aware there are 2 simultaneous revision code journeys and it needs to be correct for manufacture date. Version E AC AH vs Version H AD AJ. There are later revisions to end those sequences, but the separate concurrent versions remain. It is an plausible thought from the mechanic on valve stem seals. However, I think he may be swayed by the single photo and one camera angle. Some further investigation I think before removing the head. Bear in mind for example the shiny part of the valves is only visible when they are closed and depends on a good camera angle in a photo. Good suggestion though. What does your intake tract along the back firewall and down into the flexible turbo fitting look like. There has to be oil in there? Third photo down into turbo one the firewall. How does it look on your car?

2 to 4 ohm will put less pressure on the amp, it will pull less current, it won't hurt the amp. But it "may" change the balance of sound slightly, based on the fact that presumably the system was matched with 2 ohm mid bass units and they will likely have different other characteristics as well. Sensitivity, measured in Db (1w/1M) would be useful to understand how compatible the replacement driver is, but probably not stamped on the back of the speaker. No harm in trying the replacement. Although it would be not recommended the other way round i.e. 4 ohms (original) to 2 ohms Replacement) due to the additional current draw on the amp.

I would replace the PCV or more correctly the PCV / fine oil separator, which is what the part is. Yes, they are expensive, but I am not aware of a generic aftermarket part that works well or to spec and it is not the same in any way as the BWA EA113 pcv. Does your intake pipe look oily around the entry to the turbo where the flexible connection is? Or underneath around diverter or running underneath the turbo. Mine had those symptoms when I got it, I tried a few things but in the end a new fine oil separator fixed it. The most likely place it is entering will be the PCV. I'd try to get the bottom of it, as that is not an edit: (in)significant amount of oil.

You may have a PCV failure or not operating correctly. Mine were gummed up as are yours. Not as clearly as "wet" though as yours seem to be, unless it is the photos. Especially on the port separators and valves themselves, it was kind of a dry crusty surface with gummy consistency underneath! How much oil are you using?

Nice. Yes, 40MPG maybe 42MPG, (according to MFD) is about the best I've seen on some uneventful driving for me! Reality is overall I'm on about 30MPG mixed driving! And I don't drive with a lead foot!

My vRS estate is April 2011 mfr, MY2011. Part No SW: 5K0 953 521 AT on VCDS scan. *Edit: Cruise and MFSW fitted.* Address 16: Steering wheel (J527) Labels: 5K0-953-569.clb Part No SW: 5K0 953 521 AT HW: 5K0 953 569 B Component: LENKS.MODUL 014 0140

Is it only he faulty injector ports that look like that? Wet? Cylinder 4? I suppose fuel may have soaked in and around the cylinder? And leached to the intake port?

Mychanges before calendar year. So no surprise there. I think it will be hard to tell you definitively without either a) finding a member with VCDs and getting a full scan or b) pulling it apart.

I broke one leg off the plastic stand on one injector. I reused. I also broke a locating nipple on the intake port separators, be careful separating those. I also reused as the IM gasket has quite a few locating nipples. Yes, I cleaned the throttle body as well and a new gasket. The full VW injector seal kit is relatively expensive when you need 4. When I had my 4 injectors cleaned and tested they replaced the seals anyway. But not the other seal pack components. As for leaving the IM off for a day or two or three, I really wouldn't worry. If you're the worrying type - seal of the fuel lines and plug the head intake ports with rags or plastic bags as well as the throttle body intake tract. The latter to stop anything falling into it like a tool or a screw or a bolt. That is the only precaution I did and I had it disassembled for a week.

Do a flap reset / recalibration. Run a full diagnostic scanner code for HAC errors. Or perhaps a faulty vehicle cooling system thermostat. Stuck open?

what engine vrs, what year.

I bought a ELRING Intake Manifold Seal Gasket 655.840 on ebay. But you could get genuine vw.

No. But you do need access under whilst you are doing it. And a cardboard box and container for all the bits removed! You can close the bonnet especially if you remove the IM out of the way to the cardboard box.

There's a decent video from an American guy workshop I his garage on a golf gti. I watched it twice before doing it. It's pretty self explanatory but it was good to confirm all the connectors for example. Very easy to rip one off by not disconnecting. I'll find it. Here it is. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5WYS5pMPm8g

Actually your right, the dreaded nose clamp was spline, m12 from memory it needs to be as short as possible. There is a rigid coolant line in the way. Long reach torx bit or torx with extension bar for IM screws. Can't remember size. It will be on net. T25 or 30 likely.

It has been reinstalled by others. But I used a new one. A short torx bit and short universal joint will help with the IM nose support bracket which is a right pain. Some scrapers and picks if your going to clean valves / ports.

Yes, it is not a lot more to pay whilst the IM is off. I had no real problems with the injectors so I had cleaned and flow tested. From my quick review, Opie Oils do the CCZ type Bosch GDI injectors about £70 each and they do not state remfr. So that is around £280 a set from a site sponsor and may be slightly less for the 4.

My originals in my 2011 were 06H 906 036G . The carparts4less comes up as £90 and ECP with discount about £109 from what I can see. That is the Bosch aftermarket equivalent. See my thread here for more information on the port and valve clean.

He may well be speaking genuinely of personal experience. But, there have been a few posts on that exact scenario on here over the last few years. Including a reply from a member in thread replies above confirming same. I'd prefer new rather than remanufactured. Surely that is just new seals, tested and cleaned? Is he sure they are remanufactured, surely they have to describe as so? If the are remfr, I'd rather stick with what you've got after cleaning and testing. Ideally match the replacement which if they are original will be a VAG part but made by Bosch. The question is there any difference at all in the bosch aftermarket compared to the VAG original Bosch supply I don't know, but I imagine you would not notice it.

How many miles? If keeping the original 3, I'd at least get them cleaned and flow tested and leak tested and that costs about £20 (actually on checking cost £25 each + postage) each plus postage with new seals installed. The VW injector seal kit complete is about £10-£12, (actually the genuine part cost me about £13), it comes with the 3 legged stand off spacer as well. I have one brand new kit, as I did not use it.

You can get the injectors flow tested and cleaned. That's what I did with mine with the IM removed. But then £200 for 4 x new Bosch is a very good price indeed. And it sounds like one has failed without question anyway. It will be very apparent if the intake ports and valves have been cleaned or not. Its not a quick job even after the IM has been removed so I wouldn't assume it has been done. You can't predict where the injectors will stay when the IM is removed so a seal tool or be prepared to use one of the improvised approaches.

Doesn't sound good I'm afraid. Oil light and cylinder fouling are the disappointingly familiar tale of those gen 2 ea888 engines with failed piston scraper rings and it only gets worse. Unfortunately. Can be fixed but pricey.