TheClient

What is your engine? From what you say it must be a petrol vRS? The rocker cover gasket is a poured seal. It is a big job to get that rocker cover up supporting cam towers etc etc. Is the rocker cover leaking? They all weep a little? Is it accounting for your consumption? If not look elsewhere. You could replace the PCV / FOS edit: (unit itself).

I think care needs to be drawn to identify the specific engine if it was a petrol in a mk3 it would almost certainly have a PCV or PCV / fine oil separator. The mk3 EA888 gen 3 in vRS (petrol) does. Diesels, so far as I am aware do not employ such a device. I've read that said before but never with the 3 VAG group cars I've owned. I'd be disappointed and concerned at 1L per 1000 miles. Even on fixed service regime that would be 2 x 5L oil to purchase and also burned through combustion chambers, valves, cat converter etc. That is not a good base level of consumption.

Any parts subject to oil starvation. Turbo, cam, bottom end crankshaft and bearing shells. Also, it important to understand that under normal circumstance, assuming the engine has not previously had the modified pistons and conrods, an oil ring only is not the recommended TPI fix per skoda. Edit: You may want to carefully consider return rights unless they are going to fix properly, and to be honest, they would probably be under water if they did so!

Hmm. ok. sounds like you need to do something soon! A failed or chinese PCV can cause main seal leaks if turbo pressure leaks and pressurises crankcase. 2 weeks though, the problem was probably already there? If you are wanting to go to stage 2 a new clutch / flywheel upgrade may make sense as well. But, importantly before laying down the cash, you'd want to be confident your engine is up to it. Besides the leak, did it use or burn oil? Has the tensioner and timing chain been done? What is the mileage at? How did it run before these problems? You don't have to answer but keep those questions in mind if you are going to splash a fair amount of cash. You want to be certain of what you'll get in the end. Plenty of people on these Gen 2s even stage 1 has made existing problems worse or new problems raise their heads.... A failing PCV could cause the seal damage if the crankcase became over pressurised when on boost. Now it is leaking, with a correctly operating PCV/FOS it is possible it could be leaking to enough of a vacuum leak to cause a problems. No experience of this on CCZA, but just sharing a hypothesis. Open to someone having experienced that sort of problem confirming or denying.....

Yeah interesting read, not just VAG then! When I got a garage to do the timing chain and tensioner on my CCZA vRS, they day after I bought it, I was toying whether to pay extra to change the screen on the cam bridge, as there were several reports of them falling apart or blocking and causing further engine damage as well. In the end I did not. And I had no major engine trouble between 34k miles and 75k miles when I sold. I did all other maintenance excl the timing chain tensioner and chain which was done by an indie VW specialist garage. Always changed oil at 12 months or 8k miles. Always used VW 502.00. I know it does not guarantee avoiding issues on these but I feel it does help or I was just very lucky....

Main seal leaks are not unheard of in these engines. Especially if the PCV / FOS has not been replaced with genuine part. I'd recommend every 4 or 5 years at least for that. In early stages, it may not contaminate the clutch enough to notice it just runs out the bottom of the housing joint line. There is a upper plate that limits splatter. If it is not severe you could try to ride it out for a while but it will get worse. If the clutch and/or DMF is aged, it would be a good time to do that as well as most of the cost with a main seal is getting the transmission off, clutch and flywheel out.

It is probably the rocker cover (in old speak) cam cover, cam bridge or what ever in new speak. I doubt retorqueing bolts will do anything now, but should be no harm in trying. Unless it is really bad or causing vacuum leak issues I would leave it. There is no gasket just VW high temp / oil resistant but leaks anyway expensive £££ sealant used. And yes, as @Rileysport says, it is a big job. Not like an OHC cam cover on my old 73 Datsun 240z where you could take 10 or 12 bolts out mount new gasket and be done in 20 minutes. It is not like that, the cam bridge cover supports the cam bearing towers and runs deep down into the spark plug wells. It is quite a big dismantle and re-assembly job.

Don't think so. It is likely vacuum related isn't it? Check the tabs and pipework to the PCV you've replaced. Some clips tend to break and could leave a vac leak. Otherwise check other vacuum lines. pattern PCVs on these engines are almost always worthless (I don't think I've ever seen a post of someone successfully using one_ and create no end of problems!

As others have mentioned the two big things that regularly catch people out on these is 1. the DSG used on that model (Arguably less reliable 7SP dry clutch dsg). Even if it has had the oil change and 2. oil usage issues from scraper rings clogging. Both are hard to spot or anticipate before they rear their head. In the oil case of engine oil usage, it often shows up after you've driven 1,000 miles and a month or two, engine oil light comes on and makes it hard to get traction with the used dealer due to time constraints and "further proof" being required. Arguments and lots of time about the issue and the fix required ensues. In some cases to get any resolution requires independent engineer assessment and court action...... Not every single engine is affected and compression testing will not show the issue. A borescope may give some indication as to the level of oil fouling in the cylinder / valves but the oil usage test is the only thing that skoda uses in the TPI for the issue to diagnose, assuming other checks for oil leaks prove negative.

What service regime is it on. \time and distance or variable long life? How many kms since the service 3 months ago. First place is to check for oil leaks under engine, maybe remove under tray and use an inspection lamp. Look from top of engine as well, but views are usually restricted.

Any DTC codes>? A genuine fine oil separator / PCV from VAG?

Yeah, inferior below par non branded parts sure. But the garage also runs a risk of an early failure. But it is a case of a demolition ball to a walnut rather than finding a good legislative / regulation policy to adopt. Edit: will it apply to non VW branded oils...do we need to use quantum or some other brand with a little vw badge in the corner that costs 25% of the product cost!

It is a crazy world if VW or Skoda wriggle out of a warranty claim for anything to do with a silica bag removal other than an internal engine corrosion issue. Anything else, is ludicrous, and pure scam! Maybe that is the environment we live in. I read somewhere lately, unless I was dreaming that we, the uk, was going down the road of following an EU reg, which prevents small garages from using after market parts. Seems pretty misguided if you are talking named respected aftermarket mfrs, who in some cases will be the OEM!

Lack of wheel spinning?

Yes, I've seen posts with gunk. Mine didn't seem to have any inside the housing either. Next time I've got the car up I may need to add another 100Ml of haldex fluid though! Thanks

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If you are just cleaning, I don't see how a prime would matter than much? Lots of other DIYs don't mention it. The re-learn procedure I can understand if the filter mesh was blocked. Gives incorrect set up to the ECU needs to be re-learnt. I did neither on my car from what I've read on VWROC forums OBD11 stalls and/or doesn't work properly for 2 of 3 basic settings referred to. I might have a look later as I have OBDeleven but don't want to create a problem where I don't think I have one! Pic attached.

Me. heaps of guides on the hinternet. No diagnostic tool required. If you don't think it's working properly the pump maybe gone. Mine was surprisingly clean though given 50k miles and I suspect no previous change. It can be done with the car on stands, I did. Reaching up for the bolts and removal of the wiring loom (and refitting is tricky) from flat on your back is a challenge though.. I left the loom in place but its not ideal with the pump hanging from the loom and you need to clean the mesh screen in situ in that case. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pUXkDXt1cw

I would say, ideally a turbo fed engine does not stop immediately after high demand. If your start stop system does that, in some circumstances, I'd disable it temporarily in that occurrence. Sure coolant recirc has improved. Also, a lot of times if you are driving at dual carriage way speed or motorway, you will come off and have some residential roads to travel to cool down. But if not, for any [boosted] engine, petrol or diesel it is never good practice to turn off with significant heat soak still present.

Genuine part 06H 103 495 AH would be the correct part. But per other threads on these forums there are 2 simultaneous part streams for this part for this engine depending on original mfr date. Based on my 2011 (now sold) my replacement was AJ having replaced the original part H. But, for febi do they actually manufacture 2 versions or have they just merged into one part on basis that the bolts and part outline is the same? I have replied to quite a few threads where people have had problems with pattern chinese parts and also aftermarket branded manufactured parts. [Edit: Are you sure your car had a genuine part 06H 103 495A fitted. I don't ever recall seeing that as a fittment on the skoda CCZA, the part would of been E from my reckoning if original, genuine.] Put the original back in, make sure it runs normally, and if so I would replace with a genuine part. They are a 5 or 6 year replacement part.

If it's a wet carbon fouled plug then could be stem seals, turbo or scraper ring problem. But other 3 ok. As @Wino says the oil in the well external to the plug electrodes will be leaving valve cover. Pretty common. There's a big seal the whole way around it, big job to change it, monitor it. If it is not excessive leave it. You may also spot signs around the seal around the front and back of engine where the valve cover meets the head. Again, a little bit of oil build up is ok. Don't change unless there is a significant problem. On this photo with the intake removed you will see part of the seal exposed along side the green line I have drawn in.

Back to an earlier comment, the alarm horn, no signal will be the alarm siren unit with it's own rechargeable battery. It is either unplugged, wiring faulty or as they all do somewhere north of 6 years, probably failed due to the battery leaking. So it is unlikely to function in a theft situation. You can test by lowering a window on the car. Locking. Leave 30 seconds. Then waive your arms in the car, you may find the hazzard lights activate but no siren. It will not produce any dash lights though. What 2 lights on the dash come and go? Low tyre pressure can cause the TPMS to show a picture of the tyre tread indicating low pressure. If it is ESC / ABS you could have a faulty abs sensor or ring which is also pretty common on these after so many years. The VCDS scan didn't show anything other than the alarm siren and the glow plugs unless I missed something.

Mk2s and most new cars really don't like low voltage conditions, like you say. Edit. Alarm horn fault probably due to modile fault, it's own rechargeable battery failing...

Yeah but pds are diesel, compression ignition and the oil was always different and always turned black almost immediately. Edit. The pd oil had to be engineered to cope with the pd injector sheer forces. Fwiw I would change the oil and filter but I take no satisfaction in telling you, you are on borrowed time. I've had threads and Pms with so many 1.8tsi ea888 gen 2 owners I've lost count. Your lucky if you didn't buy a car with the immediate problem. As private sale or even trader after a few months and 1000 plus miles it gets tricky no doubts. Beyond the emissions (you say passed), cat converter, lambda sensor there is the bigger problem of the combustion chamber, valves, hot spots. The engine will be toast consuming 1l per 600 miles. It will give up. They can't cope with and were never designed to deal with that.

Yes, well good luck and fingers crossed.