TheClient

Wow that's a lot of aud plastic notes!!! Parts are expensive on euro cars in oz too but boy. That hurts. No come back to who you purchased car from?

Yeah I see steam with a hot engine sometimes on most of my previous cars. Depends on a few things. Insulation on the bonnet underside can limit a bit but it is not really a problem. Similarly if the car is driven on motorway and raining rain will penetrate the radiators and that will steam off as well. You could test the fan by applying a 12v dc voltage to the correct +/- terminals. Also, you will find with most VaG applications the larger fan of the two usually comes on with Aircon operation.

Well that sounds sensible replacements. It would be "nice" if they could of been a little more certain about ruling out the head gasket with diagnostics, suppose they're just covering their behinds..... If you did purchase from a dealer recently I'd go back to them and inform them you have a problem that is being investigated and fixed and see what their attitude is to statutory consumer protections.....

That aligns with what I've read. In the vw self study it says something like...... high heat load applications deplete silicate content over time and affect corrosion protection, so the silicate repository keeps adequate levels by replacing lost or degraded silicates in solution.... Interestingly if you google silicates in coolant there is ....almost.... as much discussion as engine oil choice - almost. Some manufacturers preferring not to use silicates as if the solution becomes too weak (possibly from degradation) it is actually detrimental to corrosion protection than having no silicates at all.... There's even a research paper I came across and different vehicle manufacturers have a different attitude towards using silicates in coolant VAG vs say Honda for example.. All over my pay grade but if you've got a mind for science plenty of reading!!!...

Good result. Glad you have it resolved. 👍

The gloss and depth look pretty impressive.

It looks like oil to me and if no bubbling and compression ok my first go to would be oil cooler as per some previous posters. I wouldn't be driving it far prefer not at all if you can get recovered or do checks yourself. If you've got oil in coolant you must have coolant in oil. Ps. Is it DSG? That also has an oil cooler.

It could be the position sensor. But vag won't sell you a separate one anyway. Limited success with sub replacement parts on these forums but in theory it should be possible. Where is you r source information on the pinouts from? Remember the sensor does not do the moving it merely reports the position the flap runners are at. So the engine may still do a movement check but the reported position is not as expected so eml reported and ecu refuses to activate the runner flaps in operation. I've not experienced this myself but just reading and working through the post you've made...

What year or what engine? Bwa or ccza?

A suitable bluetooth module can usually be had for about 60 to 80 gbp second hand on ebay. But as @john999boy says it won't give you anything more than bt audio streaming and hands free. Both those are pretty useful though.

There are plenty of posts on here where members have replaced with pattern parts only to need to replace again immediately. A quality aftermarket? Which manufacturer for the manifold and for the sensor acquired separately? If the sensor was not fitted and the square female pad was rotated before fitting then it would seem possible for it to misread. You should be able to test with a multimeter maybe fitted in car but to remove it is probably IM out again due to the mounting bolt clearances isn't it?

Based on what you describe, the first 2 options to mind are 1) another faulty manifold (unlikely, is it genuine from a known source). 2) faulty corroded or shorted wiring at the manifold connection or further back. Testing pins and wiring resistance could be a place to start.

Oem mdi was a multi pin plug in the glove box that a variety of tail connectors could be purchased for like a USB or old iPhone style connector. Using mdi with say a USB stick was better than a micro sd card in the unit because the mdi would allow more native conversion formats like more/ aac. Denison was something different a third party offering which may have done something similar. To get phone functionality and bluetooth streaming you'll need a genuine bt module and microphone and harness. Lots of posts on here for that.

Main seal can still be a problem but he would of seen it as a problem of contamination removing the old clutch if it was done so recent seems unlikely.

Maybe the dmf rattling due to play.

Oh yeah. There's definitely no blown up engines wink wink. Did they keep a straight face? When you looked into their eyes did you see burning flames and hot coals? Oh and skoda and audi and vw have never heard of the issue. That's a really poor and unbalanced response. They're living in fantasy land!

To update and close out my own thread. Of course it was the top mount and bearing. Mostly the bearing by the looks of it. I must have fatigued it manoeuvring the strut when just hanging from the top mounts. The inner parts of the bearing were slightly cracked, it actually looked like the bearing wasn't totally aligned with the cut out in the top mount as well. Although the bearing still turned ok without load. More care to be taken if I have strut hanging again. Mind you the top mounts are 60k and nearly 6 years old.

Quite possibly, although I haven't got any direct experience of that being a problem. Presumably they still cast the blocks with sand. But if that was to apply in this case and with the silicate bag being intact, the whole issue of blocked heater matrices for @Boatman1 are not related to the silicate bag in the reservoir. Or, there is a different cause and/or the Matrix is not actually blocked this time? What was found in the blocked matrix last time @Boatman1? Lots of posts on the forum regarding blocked mk3 matrices, this is just one of such posts below, and mostly relates to vRS, but there will be some commonality in cooling system arrangements there may be a faulty valve in the system.

If the silica bag was intact then it can't be that then if the granules were still encapsulated within? It is the granules that get circulated and block. What do you think blocked the matrix as it seems you have the same problem agian?

Gee whiz you got the 5 o'clock Friday crew responding to you!! What a load of [insert chosen expression.................] Are they so devoid of understanding how part suppliers work with Automotive manufacturing that they could spin you that! The supplier that manufacturers the coolant bottle manufactured it to VWAG specification including the Silica bag!!! The wording in the VW self training guide is from memory more to do with high heat loads and the amount of silicate available in G13 being depleted, not directly referencing time. But make no mistake it was a very deliberate design feature designed and added to the reservoir tanks for a reason. Was your bag actually split and leaking granules, if not something else may be at play? If it was leaking, it is very difficult to clear the coolant system especially the heater matrix.

call the selling dealer and check what program it is on. You won't be able to reset with any key pressing if it is on variable. You'll need a dealer, garage or someone with VCDS to reset or probably preferably change to fixed schedule. That said just under 10k miles is the right duration for fixed schedule, hence the suggestion to call the selling dealer as to how is was configured when sold.

Is the car set up as variable servicing? At what mileage duration and time did the notification come on?

Check fuses first. With a multimeter if you can. Fuse diagram is correct but a mirror of the layout. So row will be correct. Position number will be reverse of what you are looking at in the manual, if looking front on, at the fuse board, in RHD car. So, for example 3rd from right, will be 3rd from left.

If its outside the car and quite loud I'd also say top mount. Check for obvious faults first eg broken spring. If the noise is only slight and inside cabin, I have also heard the the steering wheel slip ring or wiring loom behind the wheel make a slight creak at times when I had a mk2 fl with multifunction steering wheel.

Good link to the manual and page number. Requires reading a few times! It is a bit of a mouthful And also a big document to download on the go to find it. It seems the operating speed at which actual automatic braking can occur depends if the system thinks the object is stationary or moving. A few of the most relevant pieces on emergency brake operation ( with operating speed range), quoted below: "Emergency braking at low speed In the event of a risk of collision in a vehicle speed range of approximately 5 km/h to 30 km/h, the warning light appears on the display  » Fig. 286 and the system initiates automatic braking. " "Automatic braking - a stationary obstacle If the driver does not respond to the advance warning of the risk of a collision with a stationary obstacle in a speed range of approximately 30 km/h to 60 km/h, the system initiates automatic braking. Information on automatic braking If automatic brake intervention is triggered by the system, the pressure in the brake system increases and the brake pedal cannot be operated with the normal pedal stroke. The automatic braking interventions can be cancelled by pressing the accelerator pedal or by means of a steering intervention."