TheClient

one member's experiences. There are other video on the net too.

There is somone who managed to get the bush and actuator mechanism repaired. This was to get the wastegate to seal properly as it would not hold boost properly once it wears. They used a specialist turbo rebuilding company. I have no idea if it changed the "rattle". It is possible new bushes and a tighter mechanism may be better but bear in mind these did it from new. I installed a wastegate clip and I have never really noticed it since. Maybe it is still there a bit. Just I do not notice it now.

Clean the intake ports and valves when the inlet manifold was off?

These guys were mentioned positively in another 1.8tsi rebuild scenario. The costs were in the region of £3,200 plus VAT and that was a few years ago. Also, not exactly derby but closer than kent! Halesown Engines - https://www.halesowenengines.co.uk/ Give them call? See what you / they think.

Most garages who do rebuilds, will strip down and send out all the head, block etc to engineering places, then re-assemble with new parts as necessary. Sounds like McEwans want a complete refurb engine so they just do the engine removal / installation? I've seen that kent one mentioned on here before and if I remember someone posted on here with a BMW rebuild gone wrong. Unless there is a track record I'd stay clear.

Yes, Ok, but what mileage do you do oil changes at and what were the oil change intervals for the first 60k miles as the problem was probably already starting a long time before this moment of investigation. I've used Lion garages in Hinkley, the have a branch in Derby trading as McEwans garage. I have no affiliation and I haven't used that branch but my experience of their other branch was that they knew their stuff. Give them a call and ask what they do with these failed CDAA engines. The technincal TPI calls for new pistons and conrods to accommodate an improved but not perfect ring design. You also may have some head / valve work to be done and you'd be crazy not to do the timing chain at the same time. From what I've heard on here before upwards of £3k but come back and let us know what you find out? I'm sorry it is depressing, as it is a poor poor outcome, that a vehicle can be reasonably well maintained and need new rings pistons and associated work at 117k miles.

Yes, I use the carbon activated - mann and bosch at times. Look virtually identical, I can not discern any difference between the two.

That is probably the big warning sign of oil scraper ring problems that then turns into bore and piston problems as well as oil and carbon contamination. How much oil in how many miles? Unfortunately, It is probably a full rebuild a new engine or a second hand engine. But a second hand engine is only a worthwhile bet if you can find one that has had the piston and conrod upgrade already. And that's not all that easy. Oh and it is a widespread problem on those engines. Long life servicing makes thing worse. What regime are you one?

Ok, well you could start by checking the 3 pin body harness connector. Between pin 2, ground and and 3(constant 12v), you should get 12v. Otherwise car wiring or source electricals are faulty. After plugged into the car overnight or having rigged up a harness to give the alarm 12V, you could test the battery voltage on the board to make sure it is showing charged voltage. That would require cutting the replacement item though. I thought the activation might be a switched 12V but it is lin bus, so I confess, I do not know how you would emulate an alarm activation message to get it to activate. But if it was plugged in I would have the cars windows down, lock car with fob once to activate alarm, wait 30 seconds, then wave hands inside the car to trip the alarm sensors. There will probably be error codes stored but when I have replaced faulty units, they have not required clearing to get alarm to operate. If it is a different model alarm perhaps it needs coding, I don't have VCDS so I have never done that. Refer to that russian article for pin numbering as it is 1,3,2. Left to Right, looking at the ALARM UNIT PINs from FRONT of alarm. Pin 1 to T73b- white-C-36 - LIN bus, alarm horn Pin 2 to Ground Pin 3 to Terminal 30/Constant 12V

When I've replaced an equivalent model in an mk5 golf, that was inoperative, it worked straight away even though there was an error code previously. Can you test the siren operates with 12v to the appropriate terminals? It may be faulty??

Hi Welcome, On a EA888 CCZA engine, it is the timing chain tensioner at risk. I would consider replacement which is normally done along with chain and guides as it is a lot of work getting in there. The OEM and aftermarket specific plugs are pre-gapped. 0.7mm for Bosch, and 0.8mm for NGK. Hopefully, you've got one where there is a good history of oil changes less than 10k mile intervals. These engines, with carbon build up issues on scraper rings don't like extended variable servicing very much.

Oh. good. They do release updates from time to time which seems to cure some faults which arise. Always amazes me, as how has it been running of for the last 11 years. But if all is good. Then that is good.

Hi, need more car details, engine, transmission. Also, probably need a full VCDS or dealer grade scan for errors logged. Have you checked transmission fluid levels. That would be a sensible start.

Mmm. Yes, you're right. I've never removed it. But it shouldn't be too hard he says.... Rhetorically! I'll do a quick search on online manuals and see if it brings anything back. https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/body/body_work/trim_noise_insulation/luggage_compartment_trim_panels/removing_and_installing_the_side_luggage_compartment_trim_panels_(octavia_combi_ii)/

Maybe set to variable interval servicing. Not sure the button press would work in that case. May need vcds. Is this a new to you car?

There is one torx screw to remove the pull handle then the rest is all clips as far as I recall. It was difficult and some trim levers help to get under the trim at the corners to pop the first fastner or two. There must be about 10 fastner. 4 along top. 4 along bottom. Extra 2 A long side I damaged quite a few of the retainers pulling it off on two occasions. They are very very very firm. But tge trim is still pretty firmly installed despite this.....

Oh dear. I'm sorry but by the sounds of that level of usage the turbo was either totally kaput or there is the usual problem on 1.8Tsi ea888 on your car. The scraper rings get blocked due to their design and carbon blocks the return holes. The scraper rings become completely non functional. Compression is still good but the engine consumes a lot of oil and is subject to a lot of carbon fouling and build up. Hot spots in compustion chamber, carbon fouling Esp valves, valve seats. top of pistons. 1 litre in 300 or 400km. Let's call it 3 litres in 1000km is a lot of oil. A real lot of oil, it is going somewhere as well as the by products of combustion! Let's say your car averages 7 litres fuel per 1000 km. That is an oil to petrol ratio of 25:1. That is two stroke terriotory and the engine will just not cope with that consumption full stop. Valve stem seals would be extremely unlikely to allow that much oil to be consumed. If that consumption has not changed now, significantly, your scraper rings are knackered and the fix is to insert a new engine or replace conrods, pistions, rings with updated parts, which are improved but not a totally fail safe solution. Lots of discussion in the engine failures section sticky at the top of the threads.

If you don't get anywhere. I will cut mine open. Let me know. Tks

Mm. Maybe it is a one way valve then. seems strange, if you can feel pressure though, that means air flow! I'll try mine later. But I can 100% confirm there is nothing normally connected there on Europe spec cars.

It's part of the intake manifold. Presumably blocked off or blanked. Same on the 2.0 vRS. It maybe a specific country or region adaption like california with additional emissions gear.

Hi, so it turns out the one I could find which I have disassembled is a 1k0 951 605C which is interchangeable with 1k8 951 605 but the cct looks completely different and the supplier is different. The 1k0 951 605C was Bosch. I do have the 1k8 951 605 which was intact and operating when I changed it at the 6 year mark. But I didn't really want to cut it open when it was still functional. Do these photos in this forum provide any detail, you could ask the sender to send full res images? Would that give what you need? http://skoda-ural.ru/repair/remont-zamena-sireny-shtatnoi-signalizatsii-na-a-m-skoda-octavia-a5-fl

How much oil was it using before undertaking the valve repairs. how many Litres per 1000km?

Do you know about the EA888 1.8Tsi piston ring problems? Are you sure that hasn't caused the oil consumption and burnt valves? Don't spend more money until you know that is not a problem. If the timing chain and tensioner are pre mid 2012 then that is a ticking time bomb as well. Unfortunately, although the mark 2 is a good car, and the engine is a good unit when operating properly there were serious design flaws in the execution of the build and it is a complicated engine to work on so mechanics have to know what they are doing. Or else it will not be fixed properly or it will cost lost of money or even worse both of those!!

The solenoid activation will produce a click. It is just very prominent as it cyles on and off around idle on a lot of EA888 engines mine included. I've read that replacement usually result in a less noticeable sound but for how long I don't know as I hear the same feature on a lot of cars.

Oh no. could be a lot of things. VCDS code read? First guess would be coil packs or plugs, then move on to more expensive items. Hopefully your guys will be good at diagnostics and not just put this part in and see.... That can go on and cost a lot! Let us know how you get on. Good luck.