TheClient

That is the measurement block that I see referenced usually as an indication of stretch/ replace +/- 4 degrees plus.. There is also a plug on the timing casing cover with a mirror you can get a look to see how far then tensioner is extended. Has you chain or tensioner ever been replaced? Refer this thread with some discussion.

If the new oil pressure switch is still showing low oil pressure, I'd still be worried until you can find out what the cause is. Can they screw a gauge in and check actual pressure? Sounds a little tricky if you have to drive with it to show the issue though.

You need a proper full scan to start with. I reckon there's a fair chance the securing and installation of the pipework has not been 100 secure, hence the blow offs. If the turbo is not regulating boost properly you might usually expect a boost under / over fault. The oil pressure is a concern. As someone mentioned, get it measured with a screw in guage. It could be a blocked pickup amongst other things, failing old pump etc etc.

It is an interesting idea. And an improved gen 3 EA888 engine if you can do it. Given the lack of response so far, it doesn't sound like many (or maybe any) have done it on here. Maybe do some googling Mk7 gti engine in Mk6 etc. It won't be as easy as plug and play. There will be quite a lot of loom modifications, or a replacement loom, you'd need the ECM and various plumbing and bits and pieces will be different and require modification. This is all just off the top of my head. As you say, you need someone who has done it as to the level of effort required. It would be useful to update here if you make any solid findings. What happened to the CCZA? Timing chain?

For the gen 2 EA888 vRS (mk2FL), I used WHT002087 at £1.84 each (when I purchased) exactly same as original but Philips Head 5 x 33mm 3 or 4 of mine were rusted out in the car when I got it at 5 years also. I just replaced the bad ones. Obviously not the most rust resistant steel screws they've ever made.

Stuck thermostat. Dont put 100 PC faith in reading on temp gauge known to be bravo Sierra.

Been there done that Ln the mk2. If you call skoda, because they are captive, they will sell you a new airbox, instead. However, I do have the identical part for a Phillips head screw. Or you get something similar as a self tapper and cut down. But it is hard to match such a coarse thread.

One thing for certain is you'll need to remove the purple lock ring to the side...

Hmm. Don't know the answer off hand without investigating Interested to know though. Have u tried to hit the connector with some contact cleaner first and see if it improves behavior. Sometimes when the connectors are fully moulded are a right pain you have to splice a new one into the loom instead....

Hmm. Difficult. I guess their attitude and approach will change on 12 April. But really, stand back 2 metres, outside open air, face coverings on?, surely the car could've been started. Rules are the rules though. Or their interpretation of what they are allowed to do..

Ha ha. Covid rules? No engine start. Bit strange! Sounds like an avoid. I listed my estate on here for a few weeks a while back, a few interested parties then at the end, a person in your indicated neck of the woods is now desperate to buy it as he has a new baby and a TT.... Problem is I can't find a car I want to replace with the right spec and a decent price. Almost zero private ads in the cars I'm looking at doesn't help at the moment! But to cut to the chase, on a FL mk2 vRS with the gen 2 EA888, it is worthwhile finding a good one, and you being as confident as you can it has been looked after and the vendor is honest. It is never a cast iron guarantee but helps..... a lot to minimise the risks..

Short answer is Yes! Longer answer .... Yes! You could risk it, it has been going for 95k miles is some peoples logic. Not mine having seen those old tensioners! The 1.8 gen 2 seems to me to be far more widespread affected by the oil usage from what I see one here but they are very closely related. Time and distance (Not long life regime) regular oil changes helps prevent the clogging of the scraper rings which is the start of the slippery slope. I've had my 2011 for 5 years, it has been very reliable other than the usual maintenance items and a few little extras here and there. They are a complex engine to work on if it needs anything doing other than ancillaries though!

My recollection is that it depended on the disc diameter. It should be clearer with the wheel off and a photo if still unsure?

If you can, as said before I would get them to measure the PCV pressure immediately on fitting the new separator / pcv . To make sure it is tolerance. That way, you will / should know if there is something to go looking for on the engine vacuum / pressure side.

Looked at mine. I just have the one adaptor with two choices of face. One has two pins inward, the other they are towards the outside. Works for my bosch rear calipers but contrary to what I said earlier the trw piston is probably, almost certainly different.

I don't think so. If the diverter fails it is usually torn. That prevents proper boost. Under boost scenario. If it failed to operate, stuck closed, the wastegate would still manager the overall boost of the turbo and it should not exceed what ems allows by positioning the wastegate, but you would get compressor surge. That's my thinking anyway.

Ill take a photo of the laser adaptors I've got. But yes, probably lots of ways to adapt. If the caliper pistons are not too frozen up, usually a big screwdriver (or similar) between the piston slot, allows turn back.

I use a laser wind back tool on my rear calipers, they are made by bosch but I believe the lucas design. There are other improvisations you can use. . This one. Other retailers are available... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-1314-Caliper-Piston-Re-wind/dp/B002V72SHS

It is up to you! Recommended practice is replace the camshaft tensioner, chain and guides on the main timing chain. The earlier variants are a weakness and prone to failure. Chains also stretched more than they should! Check revision versions stamped on the tensioner and chain if you think they have been replaced. Of course, there is always more if you want to cover yourself 100%, there is also the pump chain and the counterbalances chain and tensioners! And the camshaft bridge mesh filter.... it goes on.... On the timing, it sounds a bit odd. Have a look at the attached two pages from the VW self guided learning. It looks pretty well detailed. The pages are designed to be besides one another. But can still be referenced one after the other. Of course, I don't have a disassembled engine in front of me to compare to. Some photos of your actual engine timing marks may help. Some paragraphs in your post will also allow readers to understand your questions more fully and efficiently. You know about the oil scraper ring design on CDAAs already right? You're a better and more qualified person than me, disassembling that cylinder head, it is not for the feint hearted home mechanic! Did you try and put in a bore scope first?> SSP401_1 p14 and 15.pdf

Glad it is all fixed. This is not the first time I have seen an IM replaced again with genuine following a pattern part. It also shows how "sensitive" the EA888 gen 2 can be to components and operating parameters. If everything is not spot on, it can be a difficult task to resolve and fault find..

I'd get a genuine part and also, to make sure there is nothing out of spec, test engine pcv vacuum through dipstick or similar with new item in place under the different boost scenarios. There is a spec for the vacuum, and you need a sensitive calibrated gauge to test, as it is a fraction of engine vacuum.

It does sound like it could be coil packs. But it will be one or two so a fault code indicating the cylinder would help. If there is a garage that is doing another compatible car like golf mk6 gti or you know another person with same coil packs try to change them over for one run and see if it resolves it all before splashing another £150. Does you garage ever suggest anything or are they just taking instructions from you? edit. When I say one or two I mean coil packs very unlikley for 4 to go faulty at exactly the same time. So probably one culprit. But if proven, not a bad idea to replace all 4 after 10 + years

Is it the main diaphragm that split? I reckon you need to install a genuine item and at the same time get a mechanic to measure the vacuum in the crankcase at idle, partial throttle and under boost. If those are ok, it has to be faulty parts?

Yes. I guess you have to put a new genuine or the old one back on to assess. Of course, with the old one back on, you'd still have the original fault from the runner actuator arm vacuum leak and operation.

There is a thread on here somewhere regarding a delay change and it related to the abs sensor on one of the wheels being faulty! They found it by monitoring wheel speed in vcds.