TheClient

No torque value on the plastic plugs, they have an o ring and bottom out when turned to fully closed.

The only price of those that is an actual market price to be paid is the WBC. Of course they can knock you down further on inspection for undeclared damage, like wheel damage. So if you want to use them make sure you enter damage present on quote. As for other prices, they're all just a guide, including autotrader. One way to guage what they are selling for is finding like spec cars, monitor how long before they're taken off and sold. But there will be material difference between a dealer supplied car on autotrader and a private sale.

Yes, as stated I have replaced gaskets including the pan. They compress and harden with heat and age. So long as the pan is not distorted, it will fix it. It's an easy job. I wouldn't worry about the revised part number, elring gaskets are fine but up to you. A part number suffix can change for the most minor of things sometimes. If you haven't changed the thermostat and waterpump yet, I can guarantee you will do I'm afraid. They're not a lifetime design, even latest versions use plastic shaft seals and other compromised detail. And they're so active they get a lot of adjustment from the actuator and ecu control. I don't know what mileage you're on but normally you can expect replacement by 70k miles at edit: latest. But if it ain't broke yet, no need to mess with it unless you're in there for something else.....

I'm guessing the perfume had some sort of solvent in it. I'm not the OP by the way.

Ha. Annoying. Maybe worth trying a light abrasive and Polish like what you get in kits fir headlight lens renovation. Go lightly and I don't guarantee it won't make it worse. Other than that, you could remove and possibly disassemble another set of clocks with good acrylic cover...

I've experienced it on my near 90k gen 3. Got a replacement elring gasket for the plastic pan. Some new bolts don't hurt either as quite a few of mine were rusty. The gasket in mine was completely hard and compressed. Another nice to have, is the o ring for the oil pickup so you can remove with the sump off and clean. I had one, but my screen was so clean I did not bother. All the gaskets on my gen 3 are letting go, heat and age. Just did thd two ancillary bracket / oil cooler gaskets. Fun fun. Just like the thermostat all over again, probably worse actually.. Plus the upper timing Gasket Plus the magnet o rings. Oh and a new oil cap!!!

No, it hasn't happened exactly like that to me. But, sometimes the key is fussy about removing. I think it is more than the cylinder I think it is something to do with the interlock, either the transmission knowing and observing in P (if dsg) and / or the foot on brake pedal. Others have posted on here but you'll have to search carefully to find possibly using searches outside in google land....

I would of thought the car would of complained of a electrical fault to ground or short but needed fixing. Wait and see. Fingers crossed.

P2099 that is underboost. That could be to do with the actuator, or the turbo itself, wastegate or a boost leak in pipework..... I would say it is almost certainly not related to the temp gauge fluctuating If you monitor coolant temp with diagnostics the gauge does not track actual temps very well anyway, it kind of averages out all temps between about 80C and 105C and calls it 90C.

posted pics for you now. Don't ask about the cam cover. It's sealant and the cam cover forms the upper bearing journals for the cams. It's a big job unfortunately but they may well have misinterpreted the oil to burning from overheating plugs. edit. ps what is the oil usage per miles travelled?

They don't look too bad to me. Is there any heat damage or distortion. What are the gaps like? I'll dig out my photos from a 60k and then 80k mile change. You're right the specs can differ slightly but I run the ngk R aftermarket equivalent plugs. No issues What I do see straight away yours has my car's problem. The cam cover sealant is breaking down and getting into the spark plug well and under coil packs, shows on the ceramic insulator. 60k genuine plugs 80k NGK R (note second plug from left was touched with oil, that's why the electrode looks brown stained.) https://www.championautoparts.com/Parts-Matter/automotive-repair-and-maintenance/how-to-read-spark-plugs.html

I'd say restoration is definitely possible. Likely you will need to order new foam, and they aint cheap, then either pull the seat out and strip yourself or pay a repairer. If there is worn fabric that would be out of my DIY skill and extra cost. If you can find a used seat it is almost always cheaper but if it has similar miles on it, may have the same or similar damage. I could tell you who I've used but you're nowhere near my location so can't help there. Google automotive / boat / seat repairs or re-upholstery.

Yes, forget the written warranty if it gets too hard. They're often worth little more than the paper they're printed on. Will have limits, conditions etc. You have consumer statutory warranty for the first 6 months, at least and up to 6 years. Much clearer though for first 6 months.

What miles though? It's not gen 2 scale problem but if you search you will find documented cases. I'm at 89k miles in a Golf R. I would say it uses 1 litre per 3000 miles. A small amount of the loss is due to cam cover sealant degradation but certainly not that quantity.

The gen 2 was prone to control ring clogging. With disastrous consequences. The gen 3 is better. Not immune. Check for oil leaks, replace pcv fine oil separator. Check turbo play if you can. If its none of those it has to be consuming in the CC. Compression tests not conclusive of oil consumption in early stage of problems. If you've bought from a dealer decide what to do before 6 months.

Just did one search and this came up first item. Haven't checked cross referencing or anything but may give you something to go on.. https://turbovanes.com/skoda-octavia-mk3-16-tdi-turbocharger-electronic-actuator-1598cm-813860-gtd1449v-3537-p.asp?gad_source=1

On the petrol tsi the balance shaft bearings were known to fail. Usually through a oil supply issue or blocked passages, they're really fine or the gauze mesh on the cam bridge falling apart and blocking the passages. I don't know ghe design on the tdi but there will probably be something available. What is the engine code up to 4 letters at start of engine number on v5c for example.

I think the servo type actuators are usually mahle type units. Is that what is on yours, you can usually find a replacement on the aftermarket but Skoda / VAG generally don't list them, or they didn't list them as a separate part, so their usual approach was to quote for a new turbo. Yes, you're right if it was wiring / ecu I woudn't normally expect it to go away unless it is related to temperature , moisture conditions etc...

If the actuator is physically moving when the voltage is all over the place then the actuator is faulty otherwise / ecu / wiring perhaps.

It still seems like an actuator fault and or calibration / wiring. But.... given that it resolved it for 6 months not sure... There should be no correlation to fuel level but if it only shows the fault on low fuel, maybe it's something else....

I'd say it does look like that pour a bit of water over windscreen...

Plugs, coil packs usual 1st suspects. Beyond that, injectors, fuel pump, carbon build up. Can you check fuel parameters, fuel rail pressure for one..

Think it will be a small IHI turbo, maybe IHI IS12. It will be much easy with diagnostics like say Obd Eleven. Doesn't cost huge amounts. Can stop the pro sub after 12 months and just use for code reads.... Subscribe when you need the additional functions like brake rewind or adaptions / basic settings. Back to your question. I would say it is possible, but you will be shooting in the dark.... Which way to turn and how will you know when it is right?...... Suggest you mark where you start so you can return to it if it all goes bad. Count the turns maybe do two or three rotations at a time. Try car again. Go again for a second or third time in the same direction. If no success. Reset position to where you started and go opposite direction. Like I say you will be shooting in the dark though... By the way I haven't adjusted an electronic wastegate actuator before - only seen in a few videos....

Just for context it's not really a start stop error, it's the boost regulation cct, the effect is that start / stop is unavailable. Is yours the electronic waste gate actuator, servo style? If you've got a proper diagnostics reader, there are voltages that can be read to reset up the actuator . You'd want to record what they are before disassembly. Also find the correct spec, hopefully there will be a difference and that is your cause. Manually marking thread position not a bad idea either as a fall back.

Yes, a fair bit of truth in here. Putting it simply moving the lever to left, into manual plane, should keep the same gear and unless speed slow or exceeds certain normal margins, keeps your gear selection. If you just tap paddles, the gearbox takes back over in a matter of seconds. This is not the case in the manual plane. All my experience is based on the DQ250 on a standard map. TCU remaps usually alter behaviour.