TheClient

When the phone is plugged in and you go to android auto is the an option list or settings button on the car screen that lists devices? What year is the car. Is android auto definitely activated on the mib system. Try another phone?

Mine has done something like that with android auto before. What i needed to do was plug it in, let it show reading usb or phone message or something on screen, then go to screen where it allows you to select between apple car play / aa. Then I think there is an option on that screen to select device, choose your phone and then either it should work or you select AA again.. Did you try reducing Bluetooth level BELOW 100% ?

I've got a golf R dq250 dsg I.e. 6 speed. With a jb4 tuning box. My lifetime 3 Yr average of very mixed driving is 28mpg. Long motorway keep to 70 and i can see 38mpg... I'd say you're in the range, replace airfilter and sparkplug are the only 2 things you can probably do to improve but doubt it will alter it.... Good maintenance though...

Ok. Can you turn off bluetooth and stream via phone plugged into usb a say via Android auto or apple car play. Try that with your phone and maybe another. Edit: also, if your streaming via bluetooth, what level do you have the phone volume at assuming that affects overall volume level. Try at say 75% not 100% level... Could be overdriving the input.

If the electrical fault is permanent you need to replace the n428. Edit. And or check wiring. It won't really damage anything short term, that's probably why no mil is commanded. With the n428 not operating, I believe the default state is high or rather normal pressure mode. Not reduced pressure mode. That won't operate...

Yes. That's the purpose of the two pressure switches. They regulation valve controls the pump as dictated by ecu to toggle between reduced and full pressure mode.

The piston cooling jet regime is additional and has its own pressure switch in a different locatikn to detect operation. It can activate in either reduced or full pressure mode.

There is a reduced pressure switch and a normal pressure switch. Both only detect below spec pressure. Depending on if the pump is in reduced pressure mode or normal pressure mode.

It's purpose is to allow the oil pump to run at reduced or normal pressure.

Oh right. Ok, it's not brakes then. It's hard to make out on the video. You may be better to open bonnet or get under car whilst idling. Of ccourse take precautions, Car wheels chocked, handbrake fully on. Do not put hands near any drive belt or pulleys. Suspect it may be an aircon or tensioner pulley but just guessing really in the idle scenario with engine ticking over.

Second video sounds like brakes dragging a bit on discs. Pretty common try dabbing brakes. If it stops that's what it is. A few hard stops may fix for a while or brakes may need a strip down and clean....

Yes, totally. It does seem strange to me compared to how the 2l ea888 gen 3 shows oil temp behaviour in my car. And normally I would expect it to behave very similarly given the same architecture and common parts. But as @gm73 says, I wouldn't worry about it...

It should normally be calibrated at point of manufacture assembly. All the voltage tells you is where the actuator should be adjusted at rest. So if they can't adjust it maybe it faulty or gone faulty. Probably just the actuator but they're replacing the whole turbo.... often vag won't list actuators separately although often available on aftermarket from oem supplier...

Because it is a gen3, assuming correct it will be the electromechaincal thermostat. They are very responsive. Despite their tendency to only last 60k miles. My Golf R regulates temp very quickly you can even monitor servo actuator position on the thermostat as the ECU see's it. My oil temp on motorway varies pretty closely 102C to 107C. Unless I press very hard. Don't tend to monitor coolant temp as closely but from memory it regulates around 103C

It's definitwly possible to damage voicecoils on tweeters in right (or wrong) circumstances but we are making educated guesses. Probably needs removing driver units in door card assembly and proving with an alternative tweeter if it can't be resolved and proven via other fault testing.. Clipping is an overdrive scenario usually the result of excessive volume levels or input sensitivity mismatch. Are you, OP, turning up volume on phone to near max when streaming audio and then using the car system volume. That is usually what works best when not connected directly via Aa or apply car play and streaming via bluetooth. AFAICR the Canton package would include an enhanced amplifier, in addition to driver specification which is normally accomplished via an outboard unit but I wouldn't bet my life without confirming via googling or someone who has it. Edit. To OP. Canton amp definitely under passenger seat. So wiring to speakers will come from there at origin.

Suspect the compatability list is static with what was out at time. If the problem is not apparent at rear I'd say it is likely tweeters damages or it could be back up the chain like amp or head unit. But as only front channels faulty seems unlikely. If you fade to front fully. Then balance left to rght and centre is the crackling iidenticalin both channels? If its both tweeters faulty I'd expect the fault may be similar but not identically timed on both sides....

If say the rear speakers with fader fully to rear don't show it its almost certainly speaker driver fault. It can't be Bluetooth fault if say rears are fault free. When you say small driver in doors, do you mean the tweeter high frequency units? Like this?

It would be my first suggestion. There maybe more mid/bass in the streaming compared to radio, it would make a faulty voicecoil on the speaker cut in and out. Try fading to say rear speakers only. Do they also show exact same fault? It is nearly impossible that all 4 speakers + tweeters would all be faulty at same time. If it's not that then you need to discount the phone, try another. Beyond that a firmware update on the unit maybe worth a try they can fix faults that become apparent on early firmware.

Most likely to be a faulty speaker or several faulty speakers. The cutting in and out maybe just sound production cutting out, not the Bluetooth connection. Remove speakers and test or replace. You could try the balance control to one side and fader to rear to see if really the entire sound is cutting out at the same time on all 4 channels.

Yep. Top mount and top bearings fixed 75% of my problem. I still have a little bit of what you describe left though. Which is bound to be the control arm bush. My experience on the arb mounts is they tend to be more a scraping type sound and mine is more noticeable when cold and going over speed bumps. All common mqb faults / characteristics!

It sounds very muffled on the recording, and a lot of that terrible digital artefact sound, but I tend to agree it must be some sort of resonance / vibration.... You may need two people to help track it down if it will do it in neutral and rev...

Good one. Post a photo of the new motor, they are distinctive!

Surely you meant to recommend fixed rather than variable when reading your subsequent replies about fretting for mechanical longevity? Fixed is 12 months or under 10k miles, 16,000km. There is no oil quality sensor. Full stop. The variable service approach to oil quality, is an algorithm only. Takes into account cold starts, mileage, engine temp etc, etc. The only sump sensor is oil temp and oil level. Because it is an algorithm, it is not perfect. It is also slanted towards fleet approach to minimise cost of ownership for the first few years potentially to the detriment of later years. As @Stonekeeper mentioned, they, he, she, use a change interval of 6,000miles / 12 months and I would say that is not excessive and does no harm and may do some good knowing how much carbon build up and oil clogging you can get using long interval - variable servicing. I try to aim for 6,000 miles / max 12 months. 19K km or 20K km is too much in my opinion, although may be permitted if the vehicle has the variable service algorithm turned on. But it does not give you guaranteed good engine health. Far from it.

Afraid I do not know thee factory spec. But based on experience - tight but not ridiculous. I would guesstimate maybe 40nm to 50nm.

This is no criticism of you. It is just the nature of car advice forums and when noises are the issue, it can be very hard to give advice without hearing what you mean. To me a woosh sound is different to a buzzing sound. (edit actually you said mooing and someone else mentioned woosh!) As someone else posted, if it is a woosh whenever coming off throttle that sounds like the diverter, that is what they do, let off boost immediately. In the standard set up the release is internally inside the turbo. Some woosh is still normal though. It is quite noticeable on my Golf R. Some boy racers obviously change the set up to make the discharge outside the turbo and make the noise very very noticeable! But that is at odds with a buzzing noise, which to me, sounds like some sort of vibration or resonance and could be literally anything under the car or in the engine bar, heat shields, fuel lines, axle shields goes on and on.......