Me-109

I was going to say something along the lines of the above two posts, but... ... My lad's BMW has a glowplug in the dpf which it uses when running a regen. Does the 1.6 use the same principle and that's why it came on on your long drive and has been intermittent since?

So the car with the broken switch has only one key and no logbook. Sounds like stolen/recovered or Cat S/N insurance write-off.

1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd I generally change up between 2300 and 2500 rpm. 3rd to 4th more like 2000/2100. Above that depends on traffic, road type, speed limits etc. 30mph/50kph could be 4th, 5th or 6th depending on time of day, traffic, road conditions and so on. Like others said, just don't lug it where it is unresponsive or chuggy.

I would have thought that with crankshaft and camshaft sensors if they weren't timed correctly you would have a warning light, arising from implausible signal or similar rather than from sensor failure. You could confirm it's ok mechanically with a compression test. If you're thinking airflow then maybe start with the MAF and wiring, but I'd expect EML lighting up with sensor codes. Check all the turbo hoses too.

That's what I do. You've got to get the jack far enough along the sill to be able to get the axle stand under the bolt head/dome. You can find jack pads on eBay that fit over the sill and bear on the the sill not the joining ridge.

You don't need an excuse. Get one or do not. Can't imagine the aero improvement would be a lot, so the cost would take some time to recoup. Not getting one would allow you to plough the money into fuel instead.

Avoid the 1.8, and any dsg and 4x4 cars to minimise potential extra outlay on fixes. Otherwise they're all ok and it's more down to the individual car - service history, driving style, etc.

Mine snapped at the start of this year, leaving the broken end just captured on the lower seat. https://flic.kr/p/2kvG8eR Replaced with KYB struts, springs and top mounts. 50mm strut so part numbers no use here.

You'd really need to get the codes read. It's possible that this is a failed/failing glow plug. Not sure on the VAG system but there may be another glow plug in the dpf (BMW does this).

2nd photo looks like torn rubber boot.

Broken anti-roll bar or drop link (front or rear)

I'm guessing you might need new flexi hoses depending on length and end-type. Probably worth getting new carrier bolts too.

How competent are you with spanners?

What's the issue with removing it? Carrier in the way, stuck to hub, or countersunk screw not coming out?

I had OE parts fitted front and rear when I bought the car as an approved used from the main dealer. I changed the rears for Pagid, initially having to reuse the old pads because the new set sent weren't the right ones. They would slip under braking causing a clunk. Correct new matching Pagid pads sorted that. Fronts are a matching set of Brembos. Bought the discs this year because I bought some Brembo pads about a year ago but didn't need to change them. Both sets don't rust as quickly as the OE set. Wheels get dusty but no worse than anything else I've had. I don't particularly notice bite, or lack of, so at neither end of the spectrum.

Late back to this. Euro Car Parts numbers I have are 10444122A for the discs, 10144067A for the pads. Brembo disc no is 09.9167.11 for a boxed pair. Haven't got a Brembo number for the pads unless I have the box tucked away for potential packaging.

Aye, that's the thing. My brother has one that I've used a few times. The pins look worryingly thin, but they are very strong. I've a rewind kit with about 20 adaptors yet sometimes none of them fit.

Which is possible if the OP had braked and had one stick, but that's not how it is described. From the other thread it sounds far more serious.

Are these calipers the FS111 version? It's a visible marking on the top of the caliper that you might be able to see even with the wheel on. I got some Brembos recently, if that's the case I can share some numbers because I got sent the wrong ones initially.

Can't remember if it is Draper or Sealed, but you can get an adapter plate for your tool that has a pair of pins that are automatically adjustable. Thay widen or get narrower as you turn it. Quite fine but strong pins fit all sorts.

I can't imagine a mechanical scenario that would see one brake applied. Could traction control apply a brake if it got a duff reading from a speed sensor? That's possibly the cheapest fix in this scenario if your thinking you may have transmission worries instead.

Sounds like a stuck relay but not sure if pump is relay-operated.

Have just seen the old post you replied to. Do you need to remove a split hose from your car to replace or to reuse? If you are replacing it you can just cut it with a craft knife, along it's length. That will release it from the barbed fittings. Getting a replacement on successfully without leaks or damage is another question. Soak the ends in boiling water to soften them up first. Alternatively get some replacement rubber hose of suitable bore (maybe 3/8") and a couple if hose clamps (careful not to overtighten).

You said in your first post that you had swapped the coils. I took it that you meant swapped for new. If not, what did you swap? If you have at least one spare (ideally the one with the longest leads) you can swap out in turns until you find the faulty one (where you no longer get the symptoms). I can't remember if the leads are moulded into the coil or separate. BTW, that first post is a bit hard to read without any punctuation or breaks.

If its not something on the spark side like a faulty coil I'd suspect maybe a faulty signal. Possibly early indications of camshaft or crankshaft sensor failure (or associated wiring/connectors)?