FollowingGhosts

Sounds like you may be pushing the wire down one of the drain holes. You want to go from the inside of the car out from what tomgtturbo said

So it sounds like one of your problems is that the door-microswitch has failed, the one that tells the car the door is open/closed. Mine's the same. The bad news is, replacing this is a pig of a job and I'm putting it off as long as possible until it really really annoys me. It did cause me to lock the keys in the car the other day as it re-locked itself rather quickly which wasn't ideal. There are a few threads about doing the switch, but it involves disassembling a lot of the door to get to as far as I know.

Just to add, my bits came ages ago too and were exactly what I needed.

Does the interior light come on when you open the driver's door? Does the car chime at you if you open the driver's door with the lights on? Mine does something similar and the usual fix is to open one of the rear doors, or to use the lever. Double-clicking the key will sometimes work, but not always FWIW, my 2002 Comfort Estate has the electronic button release and the release by the driver's footwell as well. It has remote central locking

Hi all, Looking at getting a flip key for my furby as the Skoda logo has worn off of my remote fob and it looks old and icky It's the 2 button fob, 434mhz 00844 008548 Does anyone know of the correct part number for a flip-key? As far as I know, there's a chance the one with 3 buttons would work for the boot release but it depends on how my car is wired. I have VCDS and my SKC to program the new key, along with an old key I coded to steal a transponder from anyway

Check the threads in the for/sale & breaking parts of the forums. I got mine from a user here, it took a few minutes to fit. You just pop the headlining off and undo the bolt

I fitted the springs after cleaning and freeing off the calliper arms. It's more as a preventative thing than a cure. The zip ties were an absolute god-send. It took two pairs of hands to make it do-able though as it meant you could gently tap the hook into place so it moved up the L-shaped cut-out properly.

Update to this: Emailed Mike, got a reply within a few hours to sort me out an invoice for about £6 inc. VAT Finally got round to fitting the springs today and the difference is night and day. They're a pain to wiggle into place but once they're in, the handbrake is an entirely different feeling thing.

I have 15" Golf alloys on my Fabia Estate and think they work quite well. The modern Skoda logo and silver wheels on a black car is good imo. The fabia has small tyres, so you can't go too insane with the wheels anyway and I'd rather the extra bit of comfort in the estate than slightly lower profile tyres.

I believe it's to reduce the risk of sparks igniting the hydrogen that can be emitted from a battery that's charging.

Managed to do a big silly today. Went to open the bonnet, shut the drivers door with the keys on the seat and the car re-locked itself as the driver's door microswitch has been broken longer than I've owned the car. Ended up with a lift to the locksmith's and a new key as I happened to have the key code saved in my phone. I've heard there are ways into the furby without a key, and understand why they're not strictly speaking public knowledge. If anyone could enlighten me in a PM, that would be incredibly useful for future reference as I'm bound to end up doing this again Though, it's also motivated me to get my door switch fixed. Are the £25 lock mechanisms any good, and how hard is it to actually replace?

So, just to be difficult, it seems like I'm actually under boosting now. Which I'm guessing is a loose turbo hose somewhere. It could be that my fiddling around has knocked something loose. This is from about 10 mins of driving around with the full load moments which you can see with the peaks

Just called a couple of places, local VW dealer want £399 was part of an offer they're doing, dark side was £350 + VAT and local VW independent wants £375 so so far, there's really not too much in it.

Dead easy to do too. Nerve wracking whilst it flashes but it essentially gives you a brand new car in terms of how it drives.

If you want to do it on the cheap, the blacksmoke remaps aren't the worst thing in the world and are fairly cheap

I have a Fabia Comfort (mid-range model) and the left hand display is a clock, trip counter, range remaining, average mpg for current journey/all time, time driving counter and thermometer. I'd assume the Fabia VRS is the same. I think it's only the classics that don't have it.

The blue/white cable which is labelled power control is the one that'd otherwise be the ant cable. Essentially there's a little switch in the radio that will turn power to it on when the radio is on. That'll be the one you want to join it to.

There should be power from the radio by means of a cable labelled ANT (it's meant to be for the retractable aerials but works equally well for this)

I've got a Mk1 Fabia, but that will sit parked for monthsand start up first time. You can at least reasonably expect a lot more than 3 days. In theory, the electronics should go into low-power mode after a period of time. (Interior lights etc. will be turned off automatically by the body computer, as well as other sensors etc. going to sleep)

Hi all, Does anyone know how much I should be paying for a new cambelt and waterpump for a 1.9 PD100 in the North West (Lancashire), and if so, a reputable place to go? My car has only done 10k in the last 5 years, but the cambelt is due based on time and it's not something I'd want to chance. Possibly a new clutch at the same time as the car has done 130k so would probably benefit from a replacement. I want to keep the car for a few more years so I'm thinking of getting the big jobs done and out of the way.

Do you know of anywhere I can find documentation on how to do that? I've found bits and pieces but nothing concrete.

Hi all, Is there anything else I need to check/test/replace before falling back and putting a new turbo in. Limp mode only happens when the engine is under high load and usually when it's still warming up. The intercooler has been cleaned, EGR valve is clean, there don't seem to be any hose splits or boost leaks. (I'm assuming a boost leak would cause under rather than over boost) I've checked the actuator and it holds vacuum for a couple of hours with a handheld vacuum pump so I don't think it's a vacuum leak. Actuator has been lubed with lithium grease regularly as well. Turbo actuator moves freely after the Mr Muscle/Forte treatment. Tends to become markedly better after these but I can still put it into limp mode if I push it at high revs. The actuator moves fine with the VCDS test last time I checked it too. Car is a PD100 1.9 Estate

I can second these tyres. I have them and they've been absolutely fantastic.

You'll find any new bulbs usually make a difference if yours have been in for a while I'd second the night breakers though, they make a massive difference, but at the expense of a little of the reliability over ordinary bulbs.

Further to this, does anyone know where I can get the calliper return springs for sensible money? There's no dealer near me anymore unfortunately.