pdhealy

Not chav, but looks wrong. I'm not a fan of the silver either.

Best thing you can do is get the car scanned by someone with VAGCom, or a code reader. If there are fault codes logged, try searching the code(s) on RossTech wiki. It does sound like you could have a central convenience controller issue. If you do, you may notice the red LED at the drivers door lock staying on constantly while driving. If this is happening, I would check the loom connector behind the drivers door card. These are prone to allowing water in and corroding the pins in the connector. If this is the case, you could try cleaning off the pins, and spraying with WD40 before re-connecting the loom.

:iagree: I used a small strip of fluffy sided velcro on the underside of the button.

Radiator mounts can be replaced but front bumper has to come off. I had the rad mounts replaced on mine, but I still get a rattle. There is a slight rattle when I tap the wing near the repeater lens, but I think the grille also contributes to the noise also.

Just make sure you: can prove the date of purchase of the vehicle in the UK, and that it was owned by you in the UK for at least 6 months. can prove that you have been "normally resident" in the UK for the 6 months before the date of bringing the car into Ireland. They may ask you for proof of day to day living in the UK for this period, an "active Bank Account"/ utility bills in your name/ etc. don't come to the attention of the cops/ revenue commissioners in Ireland before the date of official importing. You will also have a restriction printed on the Vehicle Reg document, stating that you cannot sell the vehicle for a 12 month period from the date of registration being granted - this is not necessarily the same date of you importing. It can be a long drawn out process, but if your are legitimately importing based on a genuine TOR (Transfer of Residence) application, then persevere. The Revenue try to weed out "chancers", but if you can convince them you are on the level, then you won't have to pay VRT.

Nobody really knows Tom.... They seem to think of a figure, then double it. Then they divide by 0.1, and add an un-specified sum of "good luck" money. :confused:

There is a lot of people pretty annoyed about the VRT calculations, allowing totally unrealistic open market selling prices on most cars, not just the luxury ones. If you are serious about a particular car, try getting a franchised dealer to give you a quote on the real value of the car in question as if it was first registered here, and present this to the Revenue Commissioners. It might be difficult to get a Jag dealer to do this for you, but if you see a similar one on Carzone, print the page and send it to them.

I'm not very well versed in software matters, and am wondering if anyone has opinions on Google Chrome?

Is the wire coming off the booster not just a power supply to amplify the signal received by the aerial? I have an aftermarket HU, and the radio signal is a bit flakey with this wire disconnected, and a lot better when connected?

It is a sign of trouble. I would imagine VAG Com will show a fault. My guess would be moisture in the wiring connector in the drivers door as stated above.

When the car is being driven, does the LED on the drivers door stay on?

Nice car MIck - looking good! I would imagine the glue can be removed with some petrol or white spirit?

Hello from Mayo!

From memory, the display should let you know at start up when the car is within 500 miles of needing a service. It could even be within 1000 miles, but definately within 500.

Greetings from Co. Mayo

I was about to ask the same question. One of my colleagues brought his car to a garage thinking there was an ABS fault, because he could feel the "judder", but it turned out that his tyres were to blame.

Some people have cut a flap in the foam membrane behind the speaker which apparently helps the sound quality.

My Mums 2001 Fabia 1.4MPi has had this fault on the ECU for the last two years, but no other symptoms except for the engine management light being on are present. Car runs fine. She only does about 3k miles a year so, it doesn't get much use.

Apparently, it is a common thing in the Mk4 Golf too. Some on here have been able to fix the connector and loom in the drivers door, especially if the pins are not completely shot.

Whiteline Mk4 Golf bar will fit. I don't know of anywhere that stocks them over here. Was thinking of getting one myself. Whiteline Offer - VAGdrivers.net - Sponsored by O'Reilly & Sons, Longford - 043 46321 - Main VW Dealers

I had this on mine: http://briskoda.net/octavia-i/octavia-rs-posessed/68453/

They used to be more frequent in the past few years. We might see GAFF and crew down for the Mayo stages in the New Year.

Nice one! The scuttle panel can be a pig to remove, and can be broken easily in cold weather. It's a job that usually involves skint knuckles too.

Greetings from another Mayo member. Nothing wrong with Octavia's with baby seats! In fact I know of about 7 other Mayo RS owners, and at least 6 have baby seats! I won't be able to make this meet, and haven't made it to any this year at all. Looking forward to getting to one next year though. Enjoy!

Try these: VW Golf (1J) Comfort System (Generation 3) - Ross-Tech Wiki Going through the Ross Tech Wiki pages for the Octavia 1U brings me to the above page, so I presume the adaptation procedures is the same for the Mk1 Octavia. HTH