Schtum

Haldex should be serviced at 30K miles. As well as the oil in it being changed, the gauze strainer should be removed and cleaned. This is not part of any VAG service schedule but it needs to be done to prevent it from clogging, stopping the Haldex pump from operating and potentially burning out. I discussed this with the Service Manager in West End Škoda and they agreed to clean the strainer for a small extra charge.

I usually find that the guys at Darkside Developments really know their stuff. They're quite unequivocal about not removing the EGR and leaving the DPF in place. https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/diesel-particulate-filter-dpf-fap/

If I remember correctly, I suggested to you several months ago that deleting the EGR would increase the ash load in the DPF. Logically, it's what I would expect to happen if you're not recombusting any of the exhaust gases.

It was Wendy.

That seems an outrageous price for a small amount of additional work. I had the discussion about cleaning the gauze strainer with the service manager in West End Škoda in Dunfermline. She disappeared into the workshop where she and the head tech looked at the schematic for the Haldex. She then quoted me £86.00, for a Haldex service on my 2016 Yeti, i.e. an additional £7.00 for the cleaning.

Precisely. With just a remap, mine's already quite quick. However, I think a turbo upgrade and their 4 pot Porsche brake conversion might be the next step. I'm sure you know about farkling as well as I do.

Before buying my 2016 SE L Drive 150 TDI, I had similar thoughts about buying a 170. Having just come from a Mk5 Golf 170 PD that was mapped to 210 bhp and 330 lbs-ft, I was then planning on having the Yeti remapped. However, reason prevailed and I decided on a Euro 6 car as I sometimes drive into city centres and I'll probably keep the car for quite a number of years as I did with the Golf - 12 years from new. A simple remap takes the 150 to c. 185 and 300 lbs-ft. There's more to be had, c.220 with a turbo upgrade and bigger injectors on top of that will see c.250, according to discussions I've had with Darkside Developments.

With VCDS dear James, dear James, dear James. With VCDS , dear James, dear James, with VCDS. (It is still panto season isn't it...? ) More seriously, this procedure is thus.... In VCDS Select Control Module, go to (03) ABS Brakes, then (10) Adaptation, go to Channel: Channel 09 Brake Assist (This will then activates Channel 36) There are 3 settings: 0-center (stock setting) 1-small 2-hard Channel 36 XDS There are 3 settings: 0-center (stock setting) 1-weak 2-strong HTH

Yes there's a drawer under the passenger seat in my 2016 SE L Drive. HTH

I don't think it's just a matter of tyre width affecting steering feel. I watched a Michelin video recently about how the tread profile on their CrossContact+ tyres is rounded to enhance steering feel. Having run a set of them in 225/50x17 on my Yeti for the past year, I can only agree with them. The other thing that makes a difference is wheel offset. I used to run my Mk5 Golf, on which the OEM 17" wheels were fitted with 225/45x17 tyres, on Audi A3, 16's with 215/55x16 winter tyres during the season. I don't recall the figures but the ET on the Audi and VW wheels was different and it made for a different steering feel.

It doesn't have a mechanical LSD but it does have a couple of electronic aids that achieve something appproaching the effect of an LSD, i.e. EDL and XDS.

Since the Haldex engages to send drive to the rear wheels, the maximum it can send to the rear wheels is 50% of the available torque. In a steady state cruise, it's more like 90% front, 10% rear.

Actually Root, as someone who's had it enabled for the past few thousand miles, I disagree with you. On the road, particularly on my favourite bumpy, twisty, greasy ones, it makes a significant difference to the way the car drives. It improves the turn in, reduces understeer and allows the car to hold a line better in tight bends. It probably helps that I've got bigger brakes and uprated pads. Nevertheless, yes it might well still overheat the brakes on the track where my Yeti is unlikely ever to venture but on local B roads and unclassifieds it's a definite improvement. Also, it's no accident that our other Škoda comes with XDS+ and that's even better on the same roads.

Might be a guid idea tae tell us whauraboots ye stay.

It's that time of year when the ground is white and a young man's thoughts turn to a twirl of the wheel and a rapid yank on the handbrake. Well, I was young when I taught myself to do it over 45 years ago. With lots of time at home I've been musing on what's next for the Yeti. The temptation of even more power and torque courtesy of a turbo and possible injector upgrade might be too much to resist. However, I'd also been musing on the possibilties of using the handbrake in the current snow and ice. I did an off road rally course about a year ago which reintroduced me to the the joys of steering with the handbrake and of using a hydraulic one for the first time. Getting a hydraulic handbrake sytem on the Yeti to be road legal and insurance company friendly might be too much to ask for. I did find myself considering a switch to disengage the Haldex when using the hanbrake, though. That would obviate the need to dip the clutch and I could still apply power while helping the car around on the handbrake. It then occured to me that perhaps I should consult Google. Everything I've found suggests that such a device is already present in the switch which activates the hanbrake light and also disengages the Haldex at the same time. Can anyone confirm from personal experience that is correct? I'm a bit stuck at finding a large open space to go and play on at the moment. That's in spite of my next door neighbour turning his father's Citroën Picasso in its own length, in the street, just a few hours ago; closely followed by another neighbour failing to get his LWB Transit to successfully complete the same manoeuvre.

Sorry CozB, I can't help you there.

FWIW, I have a friend who's just bought a Taycan Turbo S. He tells me that it's the strangest car he's ever driven. He has a car history of Porsches, a Lamborghini Gallardo, an Aston Vanquish, a Mitsubishi EVO 6 and several Land Rover Discovery models amongst others.

It doesn't. I don't think any Yeti was even offered with it as an option. However, it can be enabled with VCDS.

With VCDS, as far as I'm aware it was never even an option on any Yeti and no it's XDS. In that order....

If you're anywhere close, I could nip round with my trolley jack and a long pole to hold the wheel on while you do it up.

There's a lip on the hub. So you'll probably find that you can put the wheel on and hold it there with one hand or a knee while you insert the bolts.

I've got pretty much the same spec Yeti as you, albeit with a bit more power. I bought it almost a year ago and very quickly changed the worn out Michelin Primacy tyres for Michelin CrossClimate+ in the OEM 225/50x17 size. I've been very pleased with them so far. The ride is acceptable, the steering and turn in are excellent, especially now that I've enhanced that by enabling XDS. I've found them to be outstanding in the wet and charging through standing water without a hint of hydroplaning has become the norm. I was out in the car in the snow earlier this week and their performance was acceptable. The braking performance wasn't on par with my wife's Dunlop Winter Sport D5 shod Karoq 190 TDI but they're full winter tyres.

It keeps the speedo close to the original level of inaccuracy. I found that 215/55x16 was more closely matched to an accurate GPS speed reading.

Depending upon your tyres, I suspect that they'll work fine. I sold my Mk5 Golf earlier this year but previously I was using Audi A3 alloys with 215/55/16 Kumho winter tyres. The Kumhos weren't the best but I got them for next to nothing and they were much better on Fife roads in the winter than the OEM 225/45x17 Michelins Pilot Primacy.

Fit M+S, Three Mountain Peak and Snowflake rated winter tyres (I'd recommend Dunlop D5 Winter Sport on a spare set of alloys) or at the very least All Season tyres with the same rating (I'd recommend Michelin CrossClimate+ which you can use all year round). The rubber compound on summer tyres plasticises below an ambient temperature of 7 deg C and as you've discovered, significantly reduces the level of adhesion.