Schtum

The second Tiguan, the one where I was present when it was coded was a 7 pin. The third one was 13 pin. I'm pretty sure that with dedicated electrics, the rear brakes wouldn't have been working overtime when the ASC thought the car was sliding around. No such wear was experienced on the second or third Tiguans, even when towing a larger 8 x5 trailer.

It has to be coded for the car to recognise that there's a trailer fitted so that reversing sensors don't go off, the trailer icon appears on the head unit display, the alarm goes off if the trailer is unplugged and most importantly that the ASC knows that there's a trailer attached. I found the last one out the hard way when we had a tow bar fitted with just a bypass relay to my wife's first VW Tiguan in 2011. It ate the rear discs and pads in 30k miles; largely, I suspect, from towing a light 6 x 4 trailer across bumpy, twisty back roads in an enthusiastic fashion. The subsequent two Tiguans were both fitted with dedicated wiring kits and I was there while one of them was coded into the ECU with VCDS.

£600 for the towbar and dedicated 7 pin electrics which our local Škoda dealership, West End Garage, Dunfermline, had fitted to my wife's new Karoq 190 TDI in October 2019. In Februarly 2020, I paid c. £500 for a local towbar company to fit the same to my Yeti.

They look like BBS but may be replicas.

Agreed. My wife has had a Karoq 190 TDI since late 2019. It replaced a Tiguan 184 TDI. The Karoq is definitely quicker when I floor it. However, having just checked, I see that the Karoq is 1.2 sec quicker to 62 mph but some of that is no doubt down to it weighing 170 kg less than the Tiguan.

More correctly known as the ASV - Anti-shudder valve.

No the bikes live in the garage behind that roller shutter door. Thanks for the compliment about the cabin. It's one of these... https://dunsterhouse.co.uk/log-cabins I bought it second hand from Facebook Marketplace. It was erected in a garden in Edinburgh. A friend of mine who is very good at this kind of thing, dismantled it. We then loaded it into the biggest van we could rent and I drove across the Forth Bridge with rather too much of it hanging out of the rear doors which were tied together. He then reconstructed it in our garden and it now has electricity and a wood burning stove. Following that I bought another small shed in Dundee which we dismantled and brought home in my trailer. My good friend attached it to the side of the cabin and fitted it out as a toilet and shower room. There's still more to do....

Glad you've got it sorted. That sort of gain in fuel economy was also my experience. I found that so long as I kept it below 100 mph on long runs across country, my mapped Mk5 Golf would return 52 mpg.

I have a couple of BMW's. A 2013 R1200GS LC TE that I've owned from new. It's got a few mods, including a full Akrapovič exhaust system and a Hilltop ECU flash + some ergonomic mods. I also have a 2008 G650 X-Country which has a cat' delete via a Leo Vince exhaust can and Hilltop ECU flash. It also has one or two other mods, including a fully floating Brembo brake disc on the front.

This may help... https://www.engine-codes.com/p208a.html https://partsavatar.ca/p208a-obd-ii-trouble-code-reductant-pump-control-circuit-open-solution-egr-valve-exhaust-fluid

My alloy manifold was a BKD one but that was for the earlier PD engine. However, have a look at the link I posted above for the Darkside flap delete kit for your engine.

I'd hope they'd be open when they're mapped out. I'd want to make sure that they're intact.

In that case, I'd suggest having them removed completely. They are prone to breaking up and then being ingested into the engine with dire results. I had the inlet manifold on my PD170 Golf replaced with a BKD one at c. 65K miles. No fault codes but the flaps were already stuck and breaking up.

Darkside Developments do a kit which fixes that. https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/2-0-tdi-common-rail-swirl-flap-repair-kit-p2015-fault-aluminum-manifolds.html They also do a delete kit. https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/1-6-2-0-tdi-common-rail-swirl-flap-delete-kit.html

I don't know the size of the discs on new Octavia vRS but if they're the common 312 mm then yes 17" wheels will fit. I've even squeezed 16" Audi A3 alloys with slightly less ET over the 312 mm brakes on my old Mk5 Golf. If it were me and it was the car I wanted, I'd buy it and fit smaller wheels. As it is, we've currently got my wife's Karoq 190 TDI on 17" Audi Q3 alloys and winter tyres, rather than its original 18" wheels. It has a much nicer ride on the 17's.

How do they reckon that works? Less tyre deformation reduces drag....? I'd have thought any improvement in emissions would of necessity be correlated to fuel economy. I suspect a bluff to disguise the vanity of people who want large wheels to *look kool* Personally I find that 17's are a better ride / handling compromise on our Karoq than the 18's that it came with.

As I understand it, the current version is XDS+ which brakes the inside rear wheel, as well as the front one, when cornering. It's fitted to my wife's current Karoq 190 TDI and it rotates with considerable alacrity and ne'er a trace of understeer when driven briskly or otherwise. HTH

I've had some discussion with Darkside about doing this to my Yeti. They suggested that their hybrid turbo upgrade and remap would take the engine to c. 220 bhp. The next stage with an injector upgrade would see c. 250 bhp. I suspect they'd also suggest an upgrade to the clutch and DMF at the same time.

No, garages are for keeping motorcycles in.

XDS was enabled on my car thus: In VCDS Select Control Module, go to (03) ABS Brakes, then (10) Adaptation, go to Channel: Channel 09 Brake Assist (This will then activates Channel 36) There are 3 settings: 0-center (stock setting) 1-small 2-hard Channel 36 XDS There are 3 settings: 0-center (stock setting) 1-weak 2-strong

They do now. I believe at the time, the quoted interval for the originally installed belt was 4 years.

Do you have any Bluetooth devices in the vehicle? If so, you might like to try switching them off and seeing if that changes things. Also, is it a petrol or diesel car? EMF levels are likely to b higher in a petrol engined car. Some people are particularly sensitive to EMF (Electro Magnetic Fields). Bluetooth devices in vehicles give me blinding headaches. I routinely disable them whenever possible.

Agreed. You only have to look at the way the majority of new model cars are advertised. Far more emphasis is placed upon luxury features and gadgets than on anything associated with the performance of the vehicle. It's also true of used vehicles. I see countless ads that say 2.0 TDI with no mention of which power output.

It's a braw, bricht, moonlit nicht, the nicht......

How else were you meant to poke the tail out a bit? Much smoother than yanking on the handrbrake.