Schtum

I bought my 2016 SE L Drive 150 TDI manual just over a year ago. So far, it's only had an Angel Tuning remap to c. 185 bhp, a set of new EBC brakes and Greenstuff pads all round with an upgrade to 312 mm Spotty disc on the front. XDS enabled via VCDS. Heiko wind deflectors on the 4 windows, blinds on the rear side windows and rear screen. I've also had a tow bar with coded electrics fitted. I removed the lid from the cubby on top of the dash and fitted a ball and socket mount for my Garmin nüviCam in there. I've had some discussion with Darkside Developments about a turbo upgrade to 220 bhp and bigger injectors would take that to 250. I think at that point, I'd want to fit their 4 pot Porsche brake kit which fits with the 312 mm discs.

The Autocar test of the FWD vRS diesel stresses that the car doesn't have any electronic differential aids. I wonder if it's a case of the software being in the ECU but not enabled. This is certainly the case on several models of earlier cars such as my 2016 Yeti 150 TDI 4x4 which like all Yetis didn't have XDS enabled from the factory. However, it's a relatively simple matter to enable it with VCDS. It would only take someone with a recent VCDS cable and a bit of knowledge to have a look to see if XDL can be enabled on the MK4 vRS Octavia.

I'm sorry I can't offer any more advice on removing the EGR (I'm assuming that's what you mean). A friend did the manifold swap on my old Golf and I no longer own the car. This may help.... https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=72241.0

See my replies on your other thread on the same topic.

I can now answer my own question! There was indeed another bolt securing the manifold to the block, but it is INSIDE the manifold. It can only be accessed after removing the EGR valve. Because access to one of the bolts securing the EGR valve and inlet manifold flap is difficult to reach I tried to take everything off together. You must remove the EGR valve first, then peer into the mucky blackness to find the last bolt! http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/134246-Cannot-release-inlet-manifold-despite-all-bolts-removed

I can't advise on removal but the best fix is to replace the plastic inlet manifold and its troublesome flaps with the alloy manifold from a BKD 140 TDI. The easy way is to buy the kit from Darkside Developments https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/ppd170-used-bkd-aluminium-inlet-manifold-conversion-kit.html or you can source a manifold from a breaker, clean it up and then source the gasket and bolts. I had this conversion fitted to my '08 Mk5 Golf GT Sport 170 TDI and it ran better than it did from new.

Update: I've been meaning to post this for a while.... The recent blanket of snow gave me the opportunity to investigate this. I can confirm that tugging the handbrake does indeed decouple the Haldex. At least it does on my 2016 SE L Drive, Manual. Twirl the steering wheel, tug the handrake at the right time, keep the power on and the Yeti pirouettes very nicely.

You might want to consider a front wishbone performance kit from Whiteline or similar, as a first step. https://ukwhitelineperformance.com/collections/all/products/kca462-bushing-kit I had one of their anti-lift kits which performs similarly, fitted to my old remapped Mk5 Golf GT Sport 170 TDI. It made a big difference to the way that the front wheels put 330 lbs-ft onto the road.

The short answer is yes in that they will have the same 5x112 PCD and the ET should be the same or close. How suitable they are depends on the tyre size. Standard on a Yeti would be 215/60x16. On a Karoq it's 225/60x16.

Have you watched the Darkside Developments video....? I had a Viezu Tuning box on a couple of my wife's VW Tiguans a few years ago. It helped a 140 TDI a bit and really perked up a 177 TDI. However, they're never going to give the same gains as a remap. Even a generic tune from someone like Angel Tuning who I used to remap my old Golf 170 TDI and my current Yeti and which should come in under £300 will give better results.

I obtained a set of Mk5 Golf GTI calipers and carriers from Danny Hill, in my experience, one of life's good guys, at Wigan VAG Parts https://www.facebook.com/vagpartswigan for a very reasonable price. I then gave the calipers away and had the carriers blasted and powder coated which cost me a bit more than a very reasonable price.

I suspect that it's the rear brake pistons backing off. Both my old Mk5 Golf and my current 2016 Yeti have the same affliction. With the engine running, stand on the brake pedal and pump the handbrake up and down. That will adjust up the rear brakes. As for the Brake Assist settings which, as I understand it, affect the brake servo effect, the procedure is: In VCDS Select Control Module, go to (03) ABS Brakes, then (10) Adaptation, go to Channel: Channel 09 Brake Assist (This will then activates Channel 36) There are 3 settings: 0-center (stock setting) 1-small 2-hard Channel 36 allows you to change the XDS settings which as stock are set to 0. Channel 36 XDS There are 3 settings: 0-center (stock setting) 1-weak 2-strong

I'm sure it could be arranged.....

So your coasting function works across the various modes? As far as I can establish, it only works in Eco mode on our 2019 190 TDI Karoq. I suspect it's possible to set it up to operate how you'd like it to with VCDS.

It depends on the car and more importantly, the tyres. Back in the early 80's when I was pretty broke, I drove around in a Fiat Panda. I remember it would go pretty much anywhere. I'd park it in drifts at the side of the road and drive off again without any problem. Equally, a few years later, my BX would go pretty much anywhere on its standard Michelins.

Having previously run VW Tiguans on 19", 18", 17" and 16" wheels with winter tyres on the 17's and 16's. I concluded that the best compromise in respect of ride, handling, steering and traction was 17's. Indeed, I'm currently running Michelin CrossClimate+ on 17's on my remapped 150 TDI Yeti and Dunlop D5 Winter Sport on my wife's Karoq 190 TDI. I find the CrossClimates on the Yeti to be great most of the time, especially in the wet and cutting through standing water. They lag behind the Dunlops in ice and snow, especially in their braking performance. I can't say good enough good things about the Dunlops, having used both D4 and D5 iterations as well as Pirelli, Hankook and Kumho winter tyres. The Dunlops make an AWD car unstoppable in the snow, until you want to stop and they do that very well too.

I have ones identical to these on my wife's Karoq SE L 190 TDI. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/329584918085186/?ref=search&referral_code=undefined Well they were identical when I bought them a few years back but they're now wearing Dunlop D5 Winter Sport which, in my considerable experience of using winter tyres, are better than the Pirellis. These are much more reasonably priced, even cheaper than mine were but they're in Edinburgh. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/164810725073260/?ref=search&referral_code=undefined Having said that, ISTR that Audi dealers were charging c. £1300 for these when they were new so the first ones in Aberdeen are about half the original price, if they're still available.... More in Aberdeen, posted a day ago https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/503414674401192/?ref=search&referral_code=undefined

I think you're correct to be sceptical about the figures quoted by Celtic Tuning. However, I also think it's unlikely that they'll be installing the VAG 170 PS map, given the mechanical differences between the engines. I believe that the 110 and 140 PS engines are largely similar with the outputs being determined by the software in the ECU. The 170 PS engine has a larger turbo and possibly some other differences. The other consideration would be to ensure that the clutch and gearbox (5 speed?) are up to handling the remapped output. I'd expect a reputable tuning company to be aware of this.

I don't think you can roll it back yourself using VAG-Com or VCDS. You might want to try this to see if it indicates whether or not the "fix" has been applied to your car. http://skoda-recallactions.skoda-auto.com/en-GB There used to be several of these VIN checkers on line but that's the only one I can find at the moment.

Good move. I bought these Q3 alloys which were fitted with Pirelli Sottozero winter tyres from a Facebook Marketplace ad, a few years ago. If I remember correcty, I paid £350 for them which was a bit of a bargain for what had been an Audi dealer supplied winter kit at c. £1300. The tyres were lightly used and I think we ran them for a couple of winters on my wife's Tiguan. However, the Pirellis weren't as good as the Dunlop winters we'd previously used, so they were changed for Dunlop D5 Winter Sport which did good service on my wife's third and last Tiguan before they were fitted to her current Karoq.

Interesting... I always want new ones on the front. I'd rather manage a bit of oversteer than terminal understeer. Equally, in snow and ice, more tread on the front should provide better traction and braking.

We replaced the broken gearbox in my son's 2007 Octavia 4x4 with the gearbox, code FUQ, from a Mk5 Golf 4Motion. HTH

It looks like you've never had a reply to this question. I'm afraid I don't know the answer but it does make me wonder if the car has had the dreaded Emissions "Fix". That was responsible for many cars suffering EGR failures. If your car has had the fix and it hasn't been rolled back, I'd be inclined to have it done. It may still need to have the EGR replaced. Of course, 3 months later, things might have moved on.

I can only suggest that it may be possible. I don't know from which date it became possible. You can try following the procedure I've outlined above and see if it's available.

No pics. The condition of mine at 32k miles, on a 185 bhp Yeti, probably doesn't bear much relation to yours at 21k, on a 280 bhp Superb. There are also different road conditions and driving styles which no doubt affect the build up of matter in the strainer.