Schtum

Thanks for this. Yes, possibly. I agree with you about the relative levels of comfort between the Yeti and Karoq seats. The leather seats in my wife's Karoq 190 TDI are certainly much better than the ones in my Yeti. However, I suspect that it's more likely that Mk1 Tiguan seats would fit the Yeti since both cars are based on Golf Mk5/6 floorpans rather than the later MQB platorm that the Karoq sits on.

I fitted PSS9 to my old Mk4 Golf GT TDI in 2003. The kit was the same for both petrol and diesel Golfs. The extra weight of the diesel engine meant that the ride quality of the front end was fine but I found the rear to be far too hard, even with the damping adjustment would right off. That was on 205/55x16 Continental Sport Contact so hardly rubber band tyres.

Did you ever make any progress with this? In spite of being fitted with what are ostensibly the 'best' seats, i.e. electrically adjustable (for the driver), heated leather, I don't find the driver's seat in my 2016 SE L drive to be very supportive or comfortable. It'd be good to find a better alternative that is a reasonably straightforward fit. I've just been looking at an ad for some Audi RS5 seats which look nice but which I suspect would be difficult to fit and make work in the car.

Oh well, at least you'll be able to keep the fuel system when you have the 1.4 ripped out and replaced by a Golf R engine and drivetrain.....

It is indeed and it's mediated by testosterone levels; as is, coincidentally, libido in both sexes. Which is one of the reasons why you should find yourself a woman who can drive well, preferably ride a motorcycle and maybe even have an LGV licence....

Does the car still have the original plastic inlet manifold with intake flaps or has this already been changed? If it's still on the original, you should definitely swap it for an alloy BKD engine code inlet manifold which doesn't have the flaps.

I had a set of those on 17" Audi alloys on my wife's previous 16 plate Tiguan 184 TDI. I didn't like them and they didn't wear well. After they wore out, I replaced them with Dunlop Winter Sport D5. I've also previously used the D4 version and have always found them to be excellent in snow and on icy roads. I even ran a 16" set through a whole year once on an earlier Tiguan and they were preferable to the original 19" rubber. Good place to break the speed limit. I regularly see three figures on certain bits of deserted road, especially when I'm on the bike. Whereabouts are you?

You say winter tyres but don't say the manufacturer. Not all winter tyres are created equal, If you've fitted budget ones you may well not have anything approaching the levels of grip that you had with your previous tyres. Also, why enable the Winter Tyre mode? My understanding has always been that it's only there as a warning not to exceed the maximum speed of the tyre and is a requirement in certain countries in Europe. You're probably unlikely to be exceeding 100 mph during the winter in the Borders.

Rear discs get lots of road muck thrown at them. Since you live in the frozen NE (fit lik...?) that means a lot of salt in the winter and therefore a fair bit of corrosion. As for pads, if you do a search on eBay, that'll give you a range of options for pads that fit.

Probably not but apart from the 4 pot calipers that's pretty much what mine is. Even on standard suspension, it handles very well, especially on the kind of twisty, bumpy, country roads I'm on most of the time. Having enabled XDS as well, it doesn't understeer too much even when really pressing on.

Note that they offer a 4 pot Porsche caliper kit to fit 312 mm discs....

Coming from a Mk5 TDI Golf that had 210 bhp and 330 lbs-ft. I originally planned to buy a 170 TDI and have it remapped. However, reason prevailed and I decided on a Euro 6 2016 SE L Drive 150 TDI 4x4. After a remap, it now makes c. 185 bhp and is just about quick enough, although I have been in discussion with Darkside Developments about the options of turbo / injector swaps to make 220 / 250 bhp. Brake upgrade to 312 mm is easy. You only need a set of caliper carriers from a Mk5/6 Golf GTI and the 312 mm discs. I don't carry bicycles in my car but I do have the rear seats removed. They come out very easily and the load space would then take an MTB quite easily. HTH

I think Škoda have produced a couple of different types of 4x4 Octavias over the years . There has been a standard hatch and estate with the 4x4 system and the Scout model which has more off road styling and a taller ride height. Maybe a set of Scout springs would help.

Yes, that looks like a BKD inlet manifold. As I said, you can check the ash level in the DPF with VCDS. If it's acceptable then that would point to a sensor. I owned my '08 Golf for 12 years from new until I sold it recently and it did have an exhaust pressure sensor failure once, several years ago at somewhere around 65K miles. However, I'm reminded that as well as the CEL it did throw a fault code that showed when scanned on a generic scan tool.

Check the ash load in the DPF with VCDS. As above, I suspect the Anti Shudder Valve and EGR will probably caked solid with oily soot. Also, since it's a PD (engine code BMN) and if it's on the original plastic inlet manifold with inlet flaps, I'd remove that and change it for an alloy one without inlet flaps from a BKD engine. The inlet flaps stick and break up and can be sucked into the engine with disastrous results. Also the bushes in the ends of the manifold, where the spindle is mounted, wear and you can get a slight oil seepage and a loss of boost there. I previously had a MK5 Golf GT Sport with the BMN engine and at 75K miles, the flaps were broken and stuck and the EGR and ASV were caked. Cleaning those and replacing the inlet manifold with a BKD one made a huge difference to the way the car drove and improved the fuel economy significantly. If you want to replace the manifold the easier way, buy this kit.... https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/ppd170-used-bkd-aluminium-inlet-manifold-conversion-kit.html If you want to do it more cheaply buy a BKD manifold from a breaker; Wigan VAG Parts are great. Then you'll need to buy the gasket and bolts. I'd also try a bottle of Cataclean DPF cleaner in a quarter tank of fuel and give the car an Italian service. HTH

A friend bought a new 911 Cabriolet last year and had persistent problems with the interior fogging up. So much so that he eventually sold it back to the dealership, taking quite a financial hit in the process.

I suspect that some of your issues might be resolved by someone with VCDS. It's probably possible to switch off Lane Assist completely or at least change the level. As for the wheelspin issue, I've seen this complaint from owners of FWD Karoqs with the 150 TSI engine and DSG gearbox. My reaction has always been, "What do you expect from a FWD tall car which has a fair bit of rearwards weight transfer when taking off?" I'm mildly suprised that the issue also affects the Kamiq which is a fair bit lower. If you do find someone with VCDS to delve into the ECU, it might be worth getting them to enable XDS which uses the front brakes to emulate a torque sensing differential. I've had this enabled on my 4x4 Yeti and it's certainly helped to rein in the understeer when making progress down greasy, twisty roads. However, someone who's had XDS enabled on his FWD Yeti, recently told me that it's greatly reduced wheelspin when taking off quickly.

In which case, it's likely that it's the inlet flaps that have broken up and are stuck. In extremis parts of them can get sucked into the inlet with dire results. This is a common failure on the BMN, i.e. 170 TDI PD engines. By far the best repair is to replace the inlet manifold with a BKD, i.e. 140 TDI one. There are two ways to do this. You can buy a kit from Darkside Developments - https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/ppd170-used-bkd-aluminium-inlet-manifold-conversion-kit.html That's the easy, if more expensive, option. You can probably source a BKD manifold much more cheaply and then puchase the necessary gasket and bolts from a parts supplier. If you choose that route, I'd recommend Danny Hill at Wigan VAG Parts as a very good supplier of used parts. I bought the Darkside kit as I was in a hurry and it was the easy option. Fitting the kit isn't quite so straightforward as the instructions which come with it suggest; at least not on my 2008 Golf GT Sport. It did however, result in a significant improvement in driveability and economy in my car which was remapped to 210 bhp / 330 lbs-ft. HTH

I'm just down the road in Fife. I've previously used Star Performance in Dysart and Angel Tuning to map two Golfs and a Yeti, over the years. Star can include a dyno run whereas that's not possible from Angel Tuning since they're a mobile service. I've been very happy with both companies.

Oponeo do several 17" alloys, that they say are suitable for the Phaeton, from £89.00 a wheel upwards. https://www.oponeo.co.uk/alloy-wheels-finder

It was likely that you were one and the same, especially since you're in Cumbria. There are a few Sherpas for sale in Eire. https://cars.trovit.ie/used-cars/skoda-yeti-sherpa

I do believe I see a ******.... *Edit* Hoggyf that is. It appears that the rather self-deprecatory term which some members of a certain motorcycle forum of which we're both members use to describe themselves is verboten on here.

I had intended to make it along to Crail today but life got in my way. I take it you mean that the fuel economy improved on the race fuel...? That's no surprise really. A higher cetane rating should give you more mpg. I don't know if it's still the case but I used to get better fuel consumption on French (and Spanish?) diesel for exactly the same reason. It used to be know as 'heavy diesel' back in the day,

Not in that form perhaps but carbon build up is an issue in direct injection engines, petrol as well as diesel. Blasting the inlet ports with crushed walnut shells is the current favourite method unless you go to a full disassembly. Anyone remember Formula Shell...? I was running a FIAT Uno 70S at the time and decided to do the decoke myself at some point in around 1989. The inlet valves were so thickly encrusted in carbon that they'd become some kind of misshapen tulip valve alikes. While I had the head off, I decided that I'd replace the inlet valve oil seals at the same time and while I had the head off.....I'll give it a quick glaze bust and re-ring the pistons. Actually, at that point it had 60k miles on it and you could still see the original honing marks on the bores. While I had the pistons out.....I decided that I'd drop the sump and replace the big end shells as well. Happy daze.....

At 67 years of age, I rarely get overtaken in my Yeti...