Schtum

Quelle bonne idée mon brave. 👍

Škoda dealerships usually stock insulated mugs that fit into the cup holders in Škoda cars. I have one that was included when we bought our Karoq in 2019.

I suspect that's related to the inflated prices that people are asking for good ones and that tendency is trickling down to the poorer specimens. I bought my 2106, SE L Drive 150 TDI in early 2020 with 32k miles on it and paid £11,750 in a private sale. About 18 months ago WBAC offered me £14,500 for it. Recently Auto Trader quoted me a value of £12K at 50k miles. Finding anything very good for that kind of money might prove to be tough. There's a Yeti sales page on Facebook which might be worth a look. https://www.facebook.com/groups/134163440694299

Have you set a budget?

Not the black race ones that are adjustable. Just the standard purple ones. I'd previously fitted the Powerflex anti-lift kit to the front of my remapped Mk5 Golf 170 TDI to very good effect and their red dog bone insert which was removed tout suite because it created horrible NVH.

Does anyone know if all Yeti front wishbones are the same? I've seen that some VAG cars can use Audi alloy wishbones as an upgrade - is this something that can be done to the Yeti? The context for this is a rear bush failure on one front wishbone. I dealt with this by having both wishbones replaced with Powerflex poly bushes. This was not a good idea. They've made the ride harsh, particularly over transverse ridges in the road. They've upset the fluidity and balance of the car. Also, because the car is rolling less at the front, I'm fairly sure that XDS is activating less and the car doesn't turn in so immediately nor hold a line so well in tight corners.

As someone who likes to make good progress, I'm inclined to think that tall FWD cars are a bit daft. I see so many posts by people complaining about the amount of wheel spin from their FWD Karoqs when they're pulling out of junctions. Now, I appreciate that a 1.6 TDI wouldn't pull the skin off a ride pudding but even so... Life's too short, if you want a Yeti, buy a high-spec 150 TDI, have it remapped and drive it quickly on twisty bumpy roads. They're surprisingly good at that, if a little firmly sprung for really bumpy stuff.

Some can, some can't. Don't feel bad about it, J.R. Yes, I know. You don't. Ça ne fait rien.

With a glass of water balanced on the bonnet. It's the only way to be smoother than a very smooth thing when you're pressing on and I suspect that rev matching on down changes prolongs clutch and DMF life.

Correct George, that is not the issue. From memory it's set on Medium which is how it came from the factory. I don't want more servo assistance. A nice firm pedal makes a good pivot for me to heel and toe on down changes which is what I do as a matter of course. What would be even better, would be for that firm pivot to be right at the top of the pedal's travel.

Thanks JR. I think that it's lost motion because of some kind of clearance issue in the pedal to master cylinder shaft. It feels like completely free play. I want progressive brake actuation from the top of the stroke. I think I've been spoilt driving my wife's Karoq which although it appears to have an identical braking system, including the Drilled Brembos on the front has actuation from the top of the pedal, progressive braking and good feel. I'm beginning to think that after three and a bit years of ownership, I've had my fun with it and if I want to continue to drive quickly, I should sell it and buy a Porsche Boxster.

I don't like the free play in my brake pedal. The car has c. 6k miles on the drilled Brembo discs with their HP pads on the front and I've just had the rears replaced today with Pagid discs and pads. The front calipers were serviced as well. Even with several miles of bedding in the rears and taking up the handbrake adjustment by pressing the brake pedal and pumping the lever, there's still too much play. Has anyone succeeded in adjusting this out?

You were correct when you wrote affected. It should also be "The sales rep and I had the same problem...."

In the end I bought this one from AliExpress. Part of the ad for it was that it was a replacement for screens on which the polarisation had broken down, so I thought it might be a good bet that it was anti-glare. My son installed it in about an hour today and it seems to have restored my head unit to good working order. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004861752111.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.21ef1802jZbkM9

I fitted B4's to my 2008 Golf GT Sport 170 TDI which was remapped to 210 bhp and 325 lbs-ft. It was on the standard Sport Suspension springs. I didn't go for B6's as I didn't want a hard ride as much of my driving is on very bumpy backroads, I found the B4's to be very good on the Golf and even better after I fitted the Powerflex Anti-Lift kit to the front wishbones. This isn't available for the MQB platform but Powerflex do supply adjustable front bushes for the wisbones on MQB cars. These perform with same function by increasing the castor of the front wheels. This reduces front end lift under acceleration and reduces understeer markedly at the cost of making the front end a bit choppy over transverse ridges in the road.

1950 Studebaker Champion pizza delivery car in Lower Manhattan, NYC.

Dodge Brothers pickup truck in Berlin ghost town, Nevada.

The North American Racing Team Ferrari 250 LM which won the 1965 24 Hours of Le Mans, driven by Jochen Rindt and Masten Gregory. It's in front of a backdrop of umpteen other examples of racing exotica in the Indianapolis Motor Speedway, Hall of Fame, Museum.

Final one on Bonneville Salt Flats, for the moment...

Looks gey dreich tae me, laddie....😆

Definitely not Fife...

Must be Fife...

Is it Africa or rural Fife...?

No, I believe you're thinking of Aaron Kaufman who was the head mechanic in Richard Rawlings' Gas Monkey Garage.

Having just had a 4 wheel alignment done on the Yeti last week, after the rear bushes on the front wishbones were replaced by Powerflex ones, it was noted that there was slightly too much negative camber on the nearside front. It wasn't possible to adjust this out. I'm told that the VAG recommendation is to adjust the whole subframe. More easily and probably more expensively, you can purchase adjustable strut top mounts or for about half the price of those, adjustable Powerflex bushes for the front bushing on the front wishbones. In practice, I don't expect any negative effects. It will probably serve to negate some of the camber on the roads. It's worth noting that notwithstanding the fact that the original rear wishbone bush was completely shot, I am enjoying good results from the new poly bushes. Turn in is much crisper than it was, even with XDS previously enabled.