Schtum

Without the engine running, I don't think there will be an issue. At the same time, my experience handbrake turning my Yeti in the snow, suggests that applying the handbrake decouples drive to the rear.

Potential buyer could do his due diligence.

It sound like there's an issue with the level sensor.

If the fan continues after you switch off, it's likely to be because the DPF was doing a regen which it hadn't completed before you stopped. I suggest that for the other issue, you get the car scanned.

How much AdBlue did you put in it when you "topped it up"? The display would tell you the minimum and maximum amounts that you should add. If you don't put in at least the minimum amount, the warning will stay on.

Yes, you can move the existing tyres onto the new wheels. You're stretching them a bit more over the rims, so the ride might be a bit harder. The centre bore of the wheels is much too large for the car. Yours will be 57.1 mm so you'd have to fit spigot rings. Also an ET of 35mm is outside the recommended range of 45-49mm.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175588863683?hash=item28e1e96ec3:g:6tsAAOSw0wRj5gWz&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoOn2ZY3299wv%2FAV%2BwJq3ZzD3v0XRAO%2BXj%2BUFk%2BToUF2RxqDfB4RUuJ4Q60hr22PnG4b1yFQ1yWdG5wNeZe6YALICTjH1rvX7%2FW9Ff%2FN0oBbml4sQF7yAMXn6OaSOVclLM2fslMfD2juAtFXrO%2B1gnz0ZpY08NP9a%2BRoje9Gkmkw98fdv0GGOJI3CoI85hk22p9kR0OMeBxRZ0cHszW1c7k8%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8rhyZjPYQ

This is a lightning cable that connects to the Media In port. Whether you can find one with the older style Apple connector, is another matter. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194438830885?hash=item2d45751b25:g:cX8AAOSwkSJhZloW&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4MCVadb%2FftMd7Bc9yP0m8lJ8rdNxLe7hDA4b1JBPqoh313oHQ0f4%2ByOrCGx2SX0oO3XqIML%2BvQF%2B6kOQHy7Lkt1%2Bcp3Wl9Dv3hkXqAKQ6ofjUp4udNPGa%2FpokSdgadgkDm2IFy6PYU8tnLWvY5cBY9qdEPfdeS%2BrCpUjGdsizwRPeDJ%2FGMMxv8qx1BCAeldgDWjhYe5ePWXmul3NXataWPxFQwITBRopPZRF58If0DgaLg9Vc44VcPo4by49rXuWtrpjqiWKg49bYFBsmKHbSomeArdIQ2QWuLyDQGdn2Hng|tkp%3ABFBMyOHJmM9h Having said that, this one with a female USB might enable a work around. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275585925208?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D246214%26meid%3Dd0a3981241c941c59cf14dbc586d51fa%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D11%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D194438830885%26itm%3D275585925208%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithRevOptLambda85KnnRecallV1WithCassiniImageSim&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A275585925208d0a3981241c941c59cf14dbc586d51fa|enc%3AAQAHAAABMBTnULwZvkwwvWb54Sp3TESux6kFTXxeByyFeTbBEJTAHELVvJ%2BnpiRCZsaEJO6SgqSsQIHvbg9YL2jxELBYJZWPAuIRQj6%2FC29lmsqlxuBAQ6WPQpdhiumH0Z5RaFC2kdSWjSi9SJ2xmRlwcoVg4XAmtYwkV0jjfBLXHlX71WOOM4rTP%2FB9DE02jvnT9usjLKhMSoDwpf7o3ww4sJyxAFIq3lwmhbQBUF6ch69y0AkFdcZG%2FM2KenawcyNC0EIjzO3GVVJMpA8mVnFAQiOE2fGxxy37SyAfIUKeTnXZMvzYug2p2L4YUsFyaRoven2eI8lKwTkn2tN02j8yp%2F4iPNFrTZpV%2Frh8dWUqyq%2BpaUEvx9oh9blpJ3ZbtdSin9mvoH9m%2FcT4B34sloHEKKyFZcM%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2047675

Press and hold down the button marked OFF on the bottom left of the centre console. That will turn off the Traction Control, ASC and the Front Assist Radar for some reason. It's also what you do to prepare for using the Launch Control. I only ever disable it when I'm really pressing on. It prevents the ASC from momentarily cutting reducing the power on bumpy corners which can be very annoying.

If I remember correctly, they have 14 days to notify you. In that respect it would have been safer to have been going another, genuine, 40 mph faster. I have it on good authority that the cameras don't flash if you go through them at speeds in excess of 175 mph. At least that used to be the case. As with everything, the world moves on.

Those Kodiak tyres are a bit wider and higher profile than OEM Karoq size. 225/50x18 are standard fitment.

I've got a similar set up to yours. We have Ethernet cable from the house down through the bushes at the side of the garden into the cabin where we have a double Ethernet socket. I have an old Apple AirPort Express A1088 connected by a short length ethernet cable and plugged into a mains socket in the cabin. I see there's one of those on eBay for just over a tenner delivered. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304782728108?hash=item46f6775bac:g:HfkAAOSwcP5j0rFv&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoJXEEcVVBnNISRs4KXTe8maefRxgxwubndW2lYleTPmT2VSmCsuFronqJQ0DiL2ale8Q0sJqoIrlC5ttKu1MUcl6Y0kECcwGVKM7L5ZqQYgAdSDDAznBScuOsm9mumfEVBON4zsPmTeSvh3l4LAz1qgGKmQbZEyTGDX4FonYPDGMQq2S8DumI9Ks6eQhxYgAatHgIh57Cfvr2gW8E42fEeQ%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-zq28nLYQ

I had my Mk5 Golf GT Sport 170 TDI remapped by Angel Tuning, Scotland. I subsequently had it tested on Star Performance's dyno and it made close to the claimed 210 bhp and 325 lbs-ft. In fact, it made a bit more torque. I subsequently had my Yeti 150 TDI remapped by them as well. I've not run it on the dyno but I'm very pleased with the performance gains. If you decide not to go for a full custom map, I'd recommend Angel Tuning.

A remap by Angel Tuning on my Mk5 Golf 170 PD saw it make 210 bhp and 330 lbs-ft on the rollers. That was with cat', DPF and EGR intact. I don't like clouds of reek coming out of my tailpipes. 😉 I subsequently had the plastic, flappy inlet manifold on the BMN replaced with an alloy one without flaps from a BKD, 140 PD. That mod and the remap made the car much better. The overtaking grunt was pretty immense as you can imagine from the torque figure. However, if I kept it below 100 mph on long runs across country, it would show an average 52 mpg on the display.

I recognise this is an old thread. However, by way of an update and because Haldex servicing is a continuing issue and probably will be until VAG recognise the need to do it properly, i.e changing the filter or cleaning the gauze strainer. These are before and after service pics of the Haldex 5 gauze strainer from my wife's Karoq 190 TDI at just over 2 years old and some 20k miles. I leave you to draw your own conclusions.

Perhaps not much help but subjectively, my experience is the opposite. My 150 TDI Yeti is smoother after being remapped by Angel Tuning, as was my previous 170 TDI Mk 5 Golf. I suspect you might be correct about the DMF. How many miles are on the car?

Yes, a 701, if you could find one, would require a full licence. They've stopped selling 701's, at least in the UK. Shame as I quite fancy one. I think the full licence is the way to go. I see far too many mature people doing their CBT and saying they're just going to get a wee 125 to begin on. I always suggest they should do Direct Access and then get at least a 500 cc bike. I do think that you want decent tyres, brakes, suspension and at least 50 bhp to keep yourself out of the gutter and out of trouble on today's roads. For me, it's analogous to buying a cheap guitar to learn on. You're more likely to put yourself off. Having said that, yes I am an old hooligan and passed my test in '75 on a Ducati 250cc single which I'd bought a couple of months before. These days, there's a tuned BMW R1200GS LC and a tuned BMW G650 X-Country in the garage. Actually, I think the X-Country could be the perfect beginner's bike, again, if you could find one. There are only 84 of them recorded by DVLA. However at only 150 kg with 53 bhp and 60 Nm it'll zip up to c 100 mph and return 60-70 mpg depending on how you ride it. Its soft, long-travel suspension is perfect for the state of our roads. You can ride over speed humps, if you must, with impunity. It reminds me of a quick, two wheeled 2CV in that respect. They only sold them here for three years, '07-'09 which partly explains their rarity. They do occasionally come up for sale, between £3.5k and £4.5k for a very good one. This is mine....

I'd drive it flat out again for about another 5 miles or so, just to be sure.....😆

So more like a true 137 which is probably about the claimed top speed for the car anyway. 119 deg C oil temperature is well within the temperature range for a modern fully synthetic oil. Would you like to talk about feeling guilty, now...? 🤔

Was that 145 mph on the speedo or on a GPS...? 😆

Will you not be losing drive to the rear wheels as well...?

I think it's logical that if the EGR isn't present and working then a greater amount of soot is going to pass into the DPF. This is the explanation which I've always considered to be logical.... Diesel high pressure EGR valves divert the high-flow, high-soot exhaust gas before it enters the diesel particulate filter – the soot can combine with the oil vapor to create sludge. The gas is then passed back to the inlet manifold either via a pipe or internal drillings in the cylinder head. A secondary valve is also used to help create a vacuum in the inlet manifold as this is not naturally present on diesel engines. https://www.delphiautoparts.com/gbr/en/resource-center/basics-egrs-what-they-do-how-they-work-how-troubleshoot

Teach your granny to suck eggs, J.R. I've followed Darkside's thinking on this over a number of years. They've gone from thinking as you do, to their current position on the basis of performing work on countless diesels.

I believe that deleting the EGR doesn't do the DPF any favours. https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/diesel-particulate-filter-dpf-fap/

Did you find the cause of the problem?