Prezafab

Yes,I think it could be a 'regretted selling' move for us. Might wait until the mileage is higher (it's 74k) or if the DPF/EGR show signs of playing up. The only car that might appeal is a used Audi Q4 e-tron (4x4 model), but they're still too much for us.

We love Yetis - we've had 7 or 8 between us since 2011. But, we were talking about whether it's getting to the right time after the winter to sell while the car is still popular. I'm torn - it's diesel, 4x4 and DSG and the last of the line. I took a 5 hour train trip to buy it. I guess as there is nothing obvious we would want to replace it with -maybe a medium size EV - we will keep it !? Any thoughts ?

Other than alloy wheel corrosion requiring scrubbing the wheel and resealing, which normally gives a slow puncture effect ! I've had that on a few older Subarus.

Maybe an ABS wheel sensor. Not expensive.

I am certain that Skoda will use the name again for an SUV in the future. As it might be several years away and it probably won't be anything like the original, apart from the concept, I would enjoy your Yeti. If you have the 150ps 2.0 diesel, it's got 300,000 miles in it - so that should do for 20 years more 🙏

I pressed and held down all four window switches the other day when I put the dog in the car from the kennels. I don't know if I've over-strained something by holding the driver's button down for 2 seconds too long, because there's a feint tapping noise now and the auto function has stopped. Do I just try the 5 second reset trick or have I knackered something?

That's a decent price for diamond cut. I would stick to that as the shiny highlights make a huge difference to the look of the wheel. All black or all silver are bland by comparison. We put winter wheels on our Yeti last year and went back to Matterhorns with all seasons - a huge difference to the looks.

We went from one Yeti to another and I reckon it's about a 15 cms height loss. Is it worth stripping the polystyrene blocks out either side of the wheel well and then visualise it you could get a plywood board cut to fit under the boot carpet? Maybe put a sheet of high density foam below it? I think it's a case of how you support the floor above the wheel well. Good luck !

As has been said above, you are probably as well to go to a reputable Audi VW SEAT Skoda specialist. We have an Audi and a Yeti and 'mine' does services for both and updates the online Skoda service record. They are far more competent and flexible that the 'shower' that operate nearest Audi dealer. Which part of the country are you ?

It doesn't feel right - it should be more money, but that's just a gut feeling based on having bought a lot of cars! The horn not working is an odd one - has it been in an undeclared / not claimed bump in the past, as they don't normally fail unless something has caused it to fail.

Hi, it looks too cheap for the mileage + year compared with other available cars?

... Er, it will be a 1.4 if it's 2016 ?

I had a 1.8 TSi which was quick and reliable, but there have been problems with that engine as it has aged. Not heard anything bad about the 1.4 (2016) - there are / were a couple of 1.4 L&K owners on here. Should be sprightly (same 150bhp as the old 1.8) and easy to drive. Manual only.

Depends how much you want to pay and how long you are planning on keeping the car? If you want high quality OEM standard but not Skoda OEM, I can recommend: Shocks - Bilstein Brakes - Pagid or Febi Bilstein They both have on line catalogues. Normally I get the part numbers then scour eBay for identical at a discount. Just bought new Audi brakes this way - the dealer wanted £1400. I paid £440 same quality fitted at a really good specialist.

Answering for myself in case anyone needs to know. You need the part number ending 'VOD ' if you have a 2014MY to 2017MY Yeti. The badge size is the same but the profile (curve) is different.

I've changed all the badges on our 2017 Yeti to the black ones, but the one I got for the front grille wouldn't fit because the curve is wrong. Am I right in thinking that the facelift has a different shape badge ? (I don't mean black and silver rather than green).

Experiment is over with. My other half would rather put up with a harder ride as the Monte Carlo wheels 'make the car look so much better' - she does have a point though. Anyway, I'll stick with the view of 'a 15% better ride on 16s' and put them on eBay !

Is there anyone here who is running a re-mapped 150 TDi Yeti ? I've had several 'chipped/ ECU tuned ' cars in the past, so I'm interested in any Yeti owner's experiences.

Is the sender difficult to get to? (My Subaru is under the back seat carpet so easy)

Plugged in my Carista dongle and there was nothing in faults in the diagnosis. BUT, after 120 miles, it's dropped back to 3\4 full now 🙃

Thanks for the replies. It was actually showing down to 3/4 normally, but in the last 2 days it's full.

Our 2017 TDi 4x4 has just started doing it. Our previous one took a while for the needle to move from the top (due to saddlebag tank?), but our current one has done 100 miles without moving. Any ideas?

For what it's worth, my hardly used Subaru Impreza's battery lasted for 12 years using a C-Tek (MXS?) charger. When the battery got to the point of finally dropping off a cliff, it started ok, but then had a bouncing throttle (up to 4000rpm when crawling in traffic!) Plus weird noises. I vote for Varta + C-Tek

They flip well. Good shot though.