Prezafab

Glad it's at least behaving ok at the moment. I should have suggested the MAF when I mentioned the Impreza's O2 sensor, as I only cleaned the MAF in May. Unlike your Yeti it had a 'bouncing throttle ' where the needle would rev up to 3000rpm at idle ! I've never had to clean a Yeti one - is it easy ?

The only dodgy injectors I've had to replace before were noticeable (jerky) under full load or high revs when they couldn't supply the right amount of fuel. An old Subaru turbo I had would 'not go up hills' until warmed up, in a similar way to yours, but that was ignition timing / fueling even though I replaced the 02 / lamda sensors. You could also try filling with good fuel, puts some Millers Power Ecomax in and leaving it in lower gears for a day. May not make a blind bit of difference...

Just keep it serviced and it's worth paying Skoda to enable the SmartLink in your head unit if it's not been done or you don't have nav.

I think it was the Amundsen 2, but our 2017 SEL has the same format Bolero and we just had the SmartLink enabled at Skoda for £180 for Android Auto / Apple CarPlay / Google map satnav.

I lost a silver thingy when I was changing the mirror caps from dirty silver grey ones to gloss black. Took ages to find another one as I didn't know what to ask for !

There is a thread somewhere on here - I got mine from a UK supplier on eBay and watched a really good step by step guide on YouTube (I think for the identical VW version). I also needed a small set of small (torx?) screwdrivers for the diddy screws that secure the metal casing. If you are methodical, it's easy - Just doing things in order and not losing the screws ! The only mistake I made was that I un slotted the SD Card holder at some point and hadn't pushed it all the way down into its slot so I had to take the Bolero out again. Screen has been perfect ever since.

Can't help with the presets issue but you can fix the screen yourself for £25. It wasn't that difficult and I'm no DIY guru ! Maybe do that job first ?

Works fine in Auto lights setting. (This Yeti has one, last one didnt)

If you turn the headlight switch to the headlights or sidelights position the Speedo and revcounter are dark. If you move it to the 'Auto' position they light up ok. Any ideas - is it the switch or something else. I would have thought it the sensor was faulty it just wouldn't illuminate at all ?

That's a new one. Not being facetious - have you tried turning it off and on again?

You've reminded me now. The other variation is if the car has self park or not...

Careful. Do you know which wheel it is ? The front ones are different to the back, which are different from side to side, and which are different if FWD or 4WD ! I only know as just bought one - Bosch £22 for rear right 4x4.

That's pretty good. Had to replace our Subaru's after 12.5 years in April after it started behaving strangely but still started first time. I trickle charged it every month with a CTek but it was finally terminal all of a sudden - wouldn't start or charge and the idle was bouncing to 3000rpm on its last trip. Both the Subaru and Yeti (8 years old) have had a new Varta from Tayna now !

Our 2017's has just done the same, including the front cornering light failure. I've one of those Carista dongles , and amidst all the expected error codes from the warning lights, it had a specific message on the 'right rear ABS sensor'. Ordered a Bosch one for £22. Wish me luck!

This is half an answer. I think the fitting points are exactly the same at the rear. It's just the amount o of colour coding vs matt black and silver plastic that's different. If you go on Autotrader or similar you can have a look and see how it fits to the rear wheel arches looks the same. No difference 're the 4x4 vs fwd models.

Seen a low mileage 2017 one for £20,490 on Autotrader. Good luck with that !

It does sound like it is, though! Ford ones delaminate at the edges with time and stone chips don't help the wires apparently.

As it's 'only' in the boot (and not through cabin /headlining) why not start with trickling a hose at the back of the roof only near the aerial and backwards. Then leave it for a bit and see if you can trace. To be honest, you have the aerial and light clusters, the rubber seal around the boot and that's about it. The only other explanation is (I think) there is a small area where water could get in from being the wheel arch near the ad blue tank, but that would be from a jet wash directed in the wrong place.

If you've never considered one before, I would treat yourself to a C-Tek smart charger (MXS or similar). I'm on my second one since they were launched in the late 90s. They keep batteries alive and in good health longer, especially if your mileage is low. My old Impreza (does 1000 miles a year max) needed a new battery last week but I checked back in my invoices and it was 12.5 years old. Without the CTek I doubt I would have got more than 6 or 7 yrs.

Long story, but my complicated Audi had a very difficult to identify parasitic drain. In the end I opted to replace the 12v battery independently (after 18 months) rather than continue with potentially very expensive (trial and error) diagnosis. I bit the bullet on the cost. Back to our Yeti, I put a new Varta on recently after 7 years - and coded using the Carista app and dongle for £30/40.

Offer them $1000 to take away today.

As above, I've bought very cheap cars to do up (and sell after a while) so I would just make sure it's cheap enough for you to be able to do all the right things to it.

Correct. Right shape & size, driving position, easy to drive, reliable, long lasting. In demand.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/474334-yeti-rear-parking-sensors/

My only suggestions: Is it one of those noises that you'd swear was coming from an area, but turns out to be somewhere else? Might it not be suspension ? Brake caliper loose (unlikely), any exhaust parts knocking on the body of other parts, left a patient in the boot ?