Alan_P

After hitting a pothole quite hard last week I decided to take the car over to a friend… a Kwik Fit manager anyway, some helpful info (hopefully): Hunter kit is still regarded as the best available, but it obviously depends on the operator. Firstly, the caster is not adjustable on the Superb III… not even by a dealer. The front camber can be adjusted, but only in tandem as it involves loosening the subframe bolts and even then it doesn’t always budge... it’s not something they generally do. He also suggested there was an in place kit available to allow for further subframe adjustment… again, not something they do. The toe is what matters at the front, within reason. The camber and toe can be done at the rear although some cars come with standard bolts from the factory so cam bolts are needed to make adjustments (SIII has cam bolts already). It might explain @Danny 57’s situation, although they might just have been seized. He also said there are no stretch/single use bolts required for suspension adjustment that he knows of. He said to fill the tank before coming over and keep the boot filled with what I normally carry. From memory, there were five suspension choices for the SIII and mine was the G01 (standard). Some of the newer Hunter setups have a vin/index lookup, but this 2012 machine asked to reference the build sticker codes. Although the vehicle database updates regularly, the core software normally doesn’t unless there is a fault with the kit. I noticed how sensitive the ramp was and the figures changed the higher up the car was… closer to the cameras. Hunter software options vary and some allow you to skip the ride height values etc. and some add the disclaimer that you got @freelunch… others versions don’t. The kit is calibrated once a year so might be worth asking when your place last had it done. Up here in Scotland it’s £50 to make an adjustment at the front or rear so £100 if both require it. They do a £130 cover option which allows a check/adjustment every three months for two years. No adjustment was needed (or worthwhile) on mine:

I would rather get wet than sully them

http://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Model/Superb_3V/05-2017/en

There should be a build sticker on the boot floorpan… sometime in the wheel well. Enter the codes here to get the info: http://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx

That’s what I was getting at, we have individual opinions… I was trying to go by the weight of evidence and reviews. I also don’t think tyre development ever stops and Michelin have generally been ahead of the curve with their proprietary technologies and massive R&D budget. Remember silica-silane bonding which is now the industry standard? The CCs are probably more of a UK thing though with us not having extremes of hot or cold. I hope we don’t lose the Gulf Stream after Brexit

I borrowed a friends 320i (non xdrive) about a month ago for a few days which had CC+ fitted. It felt extremely planted and drivable. I remember being a little cautious initially with the frost, so temps were low. I previously had an A6 C7 with Primacy 3s that became noticeably poorer in cold weather so I swapped to Nokian WR A3 during the winters and really liked them. Anyway, even though the beemer has very different driving characteristics it felt just as planted and had plenty of grip compared to my A6 Quattro with full blown Nokian winters fitted. The CC+ appear to (at least) match the Primacy 3 in warm weather testing. I didn’t get to try the 3 series in the recent snow, but the owner tells me he was able to make steady progress where many other (abandoned) rear drive mercs/beemers hadn’t. You seem to be going against the general consensus so I take it you have actually tried the Cross Climates? I appreciate that if someone has Pilot Sport 4s for the summer and Conti TS 860s during the winter you will benefit from that extra percentage of performance, but I would suggest the CC+ are as good as your Ventus Prime 2 K115s in the summer and dramatically better than my current P7s. http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Hankook/Ventus-Prime2.htm What winter tyres do you use @JackySi?

The CC+ is an excellent summer tyre and very competent (3PMSF rated) winter tyre. There are tyres that perform better in deep snow, but unless you are ready to change your tyres daily at certain times of the year you will not find a safer tyre for the UK climate IMHO. It’s nowhere near a middling performing tyre… in any weather Keep in mind the following test puts it up against ultra high performance summer tyres: http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Article/2018-AZ-Summer-AND-All-Season-Tyre-Test.htm This test puts the older 1st gen CC up against the top winter tyre and other "all season" models: http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Article/2017-All-Season-VS-Winter-Tyre-Test.htm Take note of the baseline in the result graphs and what that actually works out as a percentage. Back to @pentaxian question (already has winters). I think the Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2 are good value at the moment. Comparable to the Asymmetric 3, but a fair bit cheaper... nice and quiet too:

Yup… extra load isn’t required, but it’s a higher rating so perfectly fine for insurance etc. It Just means a stronger sidewall/general construction that allows for usage on a heaver vehicle. It may mean a slightly higher pressure is needed and can make the tyre slightly heavier and noisier, but not always the case. Normally makes for a sportier feel due to the stiffer sidewall. Generally more options and a better price for XL, but you can get them in standard rating too. Looks like the standard ones are a little poorer on economy, but 1db quieter... at £131 fitted it’s a good deal. You could probably save a little with the XL by getting them fitted yourself, but National would be less hassle… hopefully

I’m currently trying to wear out a horrible set of P7s… restraint was needed to resist getting the CrossClimates during the recent weather. Might hit 2mm all round in just 10k on these Pirellis Here is a test that compares the F1s to your Contact 5s: http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Article/2015-AZ-225-40-R18-Summer-Tyre-Test.htm

If you don’t mind arranging fitting yourself you can get the original mould F1s for £114 each: https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/car-tyres/goodyear/eagle-f1-asymmetric-2/235-45-r18-98y-813173 http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Goodyear/Eagle-F1-Asymmetric-2.htm C A A rating with a lovely rim protector

You wouldn’t want differing levels of grip front to back. The CrossClimates will be easily as good (maybe better) most of the year, but much, much better than the Contis when it goes below 8c. I personally wouldn’t want that mix through next winter… would also miss out on £40 off. If you think you’ll need another two before next winter then go for them and put the new ones on the back… same again when you get a second pair

If you’re a long way from needing the other two then IMHO Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2 (even with it's age) is a better tyre… cheaper, quieter and more grip https://www.blackcircles.com/catalogue/goodyear/eagle-f1-asymmetric-2/235/45/R18/Y/98/f?tyre=32510454 EDIT: Y is a higher rating so perfectly OK.

Sorry for suggesting a more expensive option, but I can’t see past Michelin CrossClimate+ at the moment. Black Circles have them at £175 (£160 without fitting) and the CC40 code gets you £40 off when buying 4. I appreciate it’s quite a bit more, but if you normally switch to winter tyres it saves the hassle and associated costs. It’s considerably safer if you don’t use winter tyres… genuine year round premium performance. https://www.blackcircles.com/catalogue/michelin/crossclimate-plus/235/45/R18/Y/98/m?tyre=35790926 https://www.asdatyres.co.uk/michelin/crossclimate-plus/235-45-18-98-y-xl-crossclimate-plus

Thanks for the info It looks like the camera unit is the same and it’s just additional can signal connections that allow for the highline options so not much point to retrofitting the lowline setup. I hope it works with the Bolero unit.

Does anyone know which camera and cable would work on an MY17 hatch with a Bolero head unit and no rear wiper? A standard camera would be fine, but I don’t see any lowline options so maybe not much of a price difference?

Well I’ve just looked through @MartiniB posts and yes, there are complaints, but there is also extensive assistance and plenty of helpful posts too IMHO. If I was given a lemon with numerous faults and got very little assistance from Skoda I would also be letting people know. A lot of the issues appear to be quite common and he seems to be getting hammered for being more vocal about it. If nobody posted about these issues then it makes it harder to reject a dealers standard “not heard of that before” response. Do people think it’s lies or something?.. uphill struggle when people won’t even watch his videos I think he already mentioned he would also take quite a financial hit if he got rid of the car that he otherwise likes. Maybe I’m missing something about all the hate?

It could be the switch at the mirror or the positional one at the visor mount… or even a dodgy wire/connector somewhere else. Probably best to just check for a blown fuse unless you want to start stripping stuff before the dealer visit.

It’s very easy for the little gear cog that does the damping to fall out of its housing when changing a fuse. If it’s not there the runner will have no resistance. Lower the glove box by pushing the two rubber locators/stops along the top and see if the runner is located properly or if the cog has gone. LHD video:

Tesla https://www.tesla.com/en_GB/support/hire-purchase

You might want to hold off on naming them until everything is resolved, but I would certainly avoid them if I knew what dealer it was. I would also demand that any compensation/servicing can be redeemed at another dealer. Also, total your hours spent on this and invoice them... they would certainly bill you.

When it’s raining and the car is stationary (engine/ac off) I also like to open the window for some fresh air.

I might have just been lucky, but I did fit them in much warmer weather. Try adding fresh double sided tape and making sure they are right up against the outside of the gutter by pulling down on them while the window is up then leave them overnight. If that doesn’t work I’m guessing the clips will keep them located properly.

It appears that at least two people in the thread have had this issue from new. It seems to have become a little better now there is 3000 miles on mine. I’m guessing that on at least one of E_RO's trips to the dealer they would have checked/serviced the brakes? Other than reading fault codes and winding in/out, I’m not even sure the EPB is a workshop serviceable unit? I wonder if E_RO had the issue from new too? Being a very intermittent issue that appears to increase brake force on movement, I would suspect faulty coding or dodgy sensor.

Are you suggesting a lack of proper servicing is causing the issue?

It seems to happen less often on mine with 3k on the clock now (once every 10 trips) although I might just be adapting to it. I noticed that a firm second press of the brake after pulling up seems to stop it from happening during a “sticky” phase. I suppose this would tell the system that it wasn’t auto hold slippage that needs corrected. It’s certainly not as good as two previous cars I’ve had with auto hold though. I had no issues with them at all although they were auto and this is a manual box. How hard can it be to detect a released clutch?