Bap33

The new rear PS4 breaking in is now over I think. They have 200 km on the clock now. (Note: the front PS4 have ~17000 km on the clock. They were rear tyres until then). Pros: Though I did drive gently overt these 200 km, the difference is really noticeable. No side drift in tight roundabout on wet / greasy roads. The grip is excellent. The feedback information in the steering wheel are much better. Most probably due to stiffer side walls. Now I can "read" the road state thru the steering wheel. The front axle has become sharper. No more fuzzy feelings, as I could get sometimes with P7. Cons? This being said, I have to say the comfort may be a little be downgraded. But I could not swear it absolutely since I directly swapped from 215/55/17 winter tyres (with soft side walls) to this 235/40/19 PS4. Additionally, they seem to be a little bit noisier. This may be due to a saw tooth wear that could have started on the front tyres (formerly rear tyres). But this is very subtil. I need to take a closer look. If there is saw tooth wear indeed, I'll swap FL and FR tyres to solve this. It should take then ~500 km to get rid of it and decrease the rolling noise. Wait and see...

Thanks. Unfortunately, it's hard to know at this time since my my Micro-CAN VCDS starts being outdated. I would need a Hex-V2 to access these controllers (upon ross-tech forum information). I'll check the harnesses to start. If this doesn't solve the problem, I may have to upgrade my VCDS...

Thanks. The oustide left sensor was slightly pushed in indeed. I reseated it before this scan, but it didn't solve the problem. I've also checked the battery voltage: 12,35V. Not very high, but not very low either. Regarding the trailer plug, it's like brand new. All pins are shiny, no sign of corrosion at all. I fear I need to upgrade my VCDS, since It seems to struggle reading come controllers... The Rear Cross Trafic might be one of them.

Hi all, Since a couple of days, both my blind spot system and rear traffic alert system are not available at all on my Skoda Superb Mk3 (MY2017). I can't activate anymore from the malfunction steering wheel buttons. I've made the following scan tonight: The main fault code related to this seems is quoted below: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 10: Park/Steer Assist (J446) Labels:| 5Q0-919-294.clb Part No SW: 5QA 919 294 B HW: 5QA 919 294 Component: PDC 8 KanalH07 0044 Serial number: 000308418617265 Coding: 0471155951 Shop #: WSC 33361 790 00140 ASAM Dataset: EV_EPHVA18AU3700000 009035 ROD: EV_EPHVA18AU3700000.rod VCID: 4BBB8725E2D633DCA7-801E 1 Fault Found: 13688835 - Databus U1123 00 [008] - Received Error Message [New feature! Extended UDS fault detail is only supported by current gen. interfaces] Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 6 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 96 Mileage: 54747 km Date: 2021.04.10 Time: 23:08:04 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- But I have no idea about what to look at, since I didn't make any modification recently... No code adaptation, no retrofit, nothing. However, I've made some search on internet. I've found possible paths to be investigated, but I feel quite skeptical: - Battery voltage too low: The car is only 3 years and 3 months. I've driven ~4x 30km on motorway at ~110 km/h in less than 4h today. Thus I assume the alternator should have charged the battery to a correct level during these drives. - Some oxydation on the trailer plug, that may fool the system. I've read that these systems are disabled when a trailer is plugged. Thus some pin oxydation may fool the system and let it "think" a trailer is plugged. I've used the trailer hook only once may be 2 years ago. The plug cap should protect the pins from oxydation, shouldn't it? - I've also read about SW update by a Skoda dealer may fix the problem (read on a dutch forum). Quite surprising... I'll have a look to first two hypotheses with the day light anyway. I'll update this thread upon what I find... Any idea how to fix that... Any suggestion much appreciated! Thanks

I got rid of these last week (original 1st mount), they quickly cause wheels spin (after only 25-3000 km / 15-18000 miles). I also had them on my former Superb Mk2. Same conclusion... I rather have Michelin PS4. Definitely better on my Mk2, Test about to start on my Mk3. At this time, I'm only breaking in the brand new tyres on rear axle.

I think a dry lubricant such as graphite powder should be good. It won't stick dust and dirt...

I've used plastidip (motip equivalent actually) few days ago (on my skis). This doesn't give you a glossy black finish, but something in between 'matt' and 'satin' black finish. It's better to have this in mind before buying a can of spray paint.

This is also what I think, but I've never been sure of that..

This tool is usually necessary to remove Audi wheel center caps like this: The small hook has to be inserted in the little hole, while you put your forefinger in the loop to pull the cap out. But I have to say I really don't what it can be used for on my Superb ...

Usually, the deployment force si written on the actuator housing (in Newton) .

@Colin170CR These are the original glossy black wheels. I didn't have them powder coated. Sorry.

19" summer wheels back in place. I'm finally enjoying my detailing work this winter (deep cleaning, waxing and tyres dressing) Clean wheels but dirty car... 2 new Michelin PS4 on the rear axle. Finally got rid of the original Pirelli P7. I'm eager to go for a drive, to feel the différence

Be careful, Superskoda.com has become Kopacek.com recently. The superskoda.com website address may still work for a while, but sooner or later, I fear it may disappear or curiously redirect you towards any sexy looking girls website, where they want to have good time with you or... you credit card...

😯 What a hoovering fan!

Is it me, or you make fun in hoovering your front seats in two direction to draw kind of stripes, just as some football field lawns are mowed... Great result anyway!

Hi, The washer is not sold separately. You have to change the complete bleed screw. The OEM reference should be N90813202.

@Hammat Here is what I've installed: https://www.ledperf.com/ampoule-leds-backup-p21w-pour-feux-de-recul-blanche-ultra-bright-culot-ba15s-p-4981.html I'm fully satisfied with them.

Same remarks with a TDI190. But I'm used to it now and I don't pay much attention to this that much. It may happen sometimes, that's true. Then GO! I used to have cars with manual gearbox for over 25 years. This DSG6 is my first 'automatic' gearbox and I would never go back to a manual one for my daily car, even though it has some inconveniences mentioned above. Note: The gas pedal lag can be reduced using VCDS to make it little bit more reactive.

Really nice! Discrete mods', but efficient! Awesome job!

Note: These from Milotec are alumunium ones, whereas those from Superskoda are plastic ones, I guess.

I've made the same choice. Though more expensive, I rather have the Sportline diffusor on my L&K. Note: The sportline diffusor is now ~150 € on superskoda. And If you buy it on Black friday, you can get -20%. Thus ~120 € is a good deal, I think, for those, who don't have it in a hurry. Otherwise, these ones from Milotec are nice too: https://milotec.de/Milotec-exhaust-screen-dummies-for-Superb-III-Alu-Brush::3344.html?language=en

May be you can use a small drop of dishwasher soap. It will firstly act as a lubricant and enable you to put it back in place. Then it will act almost like ´glue´ once dry. 😉

I have 19’´ summer wheels and 17’´ winter wheels, there isn’t much difference between both sizes (to me at least). The tyres may be main contributor to comfort downgrading or upgrading. It’s strongly depending on side walls stiffness.

I'm not good enough to know how to recognize a MIB 2.5... Sorry...

Mine is from end of 2017 and is still a DSG6 / DQ250...