Bap33

Once he has his own car and he pays his fuel, he'll probably be much interested in listening to your advices...

If units had been changed to km, then I assume fuel consumption would be in l/100km, instead of mpg, wouldn't it?

Indeed, I had sent a PM several months ago to add 1 or 2 mods I had found to this 'tried & tested' thread, but no answer...

I've refueled yesterday. I poured exactly 70l (1st click at 69,48l), whereas there were 0km left for over 4-5 km.

May be a bad hyptohesis... Just trying to find an explanation... I may be wrong.

You're surely right. However, I'm not making allusion to H2O or condensation. I'm more thinking of dirt that would be stirred during gas station tank replenishment and would have not enough time to fall back to the bottom of the tank by settling. It may clog a fuel filter for instance. I've read 2 or 3 threads (on french forums) of VAG engine problems after refueling... Probably very rare, I give it to you. But... **** may happen.

Thinking to something else: How many miles has your car on the clock? Has the fuel filter ever been changed (every 90000km according to the service plan) ? Potentially, if'you refueled at the "wrong" time, you may have fueled right after the gas station had been replenished. The gas station tank had just been stirring and you've injected some dirt from the bottom of the tank. Each time I see a tanker at the gas station I delay my refueling to avoid that. May be it's the root cause... may be not. Just trying to help.

Interesting! Nice job! Could you remind the "spte-by-step" process, to "add" the 20 other colors please? Thanks!

@Floriann I´ve replaced the original halogen bulbs by MTEC Superwhite (also halogen ones) Thus, I don’t have any error message on the dashboard and the colour is cooler and really homogeneous with the Xenon lights, without downgrading too much the efficiency in fog conditions. Here is the link for those I have bought: https://www.ledperf.com/pack-de-2-ampoules-h8-mtec-super-white-blanc-pur-p-1042.html

The battery voltage is a prerequisite indeed to allow the Stop & Start system to shut the engine down. There´s a ´start limit voltage´ parameter, which is set to 7,6V as a default value. This is a minimum value, but it can be tuned. The higher it is, the less the S&S will shut the engine down.

Just in case. This may help...

Oh... Standards... Really depending on countries...

If you have ACC+Lane Assit, then you have TJA. When your car completely stops for more than 3s (If I remember well), you just need to resume ACC or feather the throttle to make the car move forward again. Otherwise, it will follow the car ahead as soon as it restarts.

Sorry I don't know... What is O/S/F ans N/S/F ? I'm not an english native speaker.

I think the water pump failure is more a consequence of the silikat bag problem in the coolant tank. Have a look to thread in Octy 3 forum, there is long thread about this silikat bag story.

Did they align only the front wheels or the rear ones too?

Yes, that's it. Just used the 'ali' one as a "donor". Grabbed the upper and lower metallic parts to install them on the OEM key fob.

@AlVal Probably the exact one I used, but here are 2 examples: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001025573812.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.5d7c218dBWifuX&algo_pvid=a2378752-3de7-43d3-a136-f9dea4db57ef&algo_expid=a2378752-3de7-43d3-a136-f9dea4db57ef-28&btsid=2100bb5116206003209535762e5206&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000440191322.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.1b6f3d77cmHetv&algo_pvid=8461d661-c034-41a4-b22b-8e1271319619&algo_expid=8461d661-c034-41a4-b22b-8e1271319619-5&btsid=0b0a187b16206004585054558ecfd3&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

2 very surprising points in this video! 1st point: Use an alloy wheel as a back-up???? This guy has really too much money! The large pieces of wood in the sealey guide is a much better idea! 2nd point: tightening the wheel screws in a row 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 is not the state of the art from a dully qualified mechanic. Rather use 1 / 3 / 5 / 2 / 4 for a better centering and to be sure the the wheel is correctly pressed against the brake disc.

Strange, I give it to you... Would mine become a collector?

Hi, Torx screwdrivers (25 and 40 or 45, sorry I can't remember) + Philips (PH2) screwdriver to remove the panel under the engine. Hex 19 to drain the oil pan Hex 13 to drain the oil filter housing Hex 32 to remove the oil filter Have fun!

@newbie69 Sorry if you struggled with some steps. I didn't faced them. But happy you could find a solution and glad this thread helped you (at least a bit).

Mine was in similar condition after 45000 km. But it's a stock TDI190, may be I'm less tempted to 'smash' the throttle ... It's not a sleeper as a TSI280...

I also have winter tyres. I also use my Mk3 as a daily car and for really everything. I also like to push sometimes to have a bit of fun (though 'only' a TDI190). And... I also chose 4 PS4 for my summer tyres. I don't regret it. Very good grip, even in tight turns / roundabouts, whatever dry or wet/greasy roads. Very good feedbacks in the steering wheel, and steering has become much sharper and precise. Only a personal feedback, that may help you... or not. Just my opinion.

@newbie69 Good job !