Bap33

@SashaGrace I had the opportunity to visit Air France Industries several years ago and saw a 747 in C-check, full 'naked' to the fuselage! Very impressive! @David55 Not that much. Unexpectedly, there were less A/C retired in 2020 than in 2019. Airlines are still expecting a significant air trafic recovery for this summer. But if this recovery doesn't maintain for fall, they will probably decide to remove aging A/C... (Source: IBA Group Ltd). Sorry if not related to Sasha's Superb 3...

Hi all, I thought I did, but I did not ! Here is the final conclusion, I wanted to share: The recoding is OK. Lane Assist / Blind Spot Detection / Rear Trafic Assist are fully operating now! I haven't had any error message since that time. I also made a test with a carton box. The RTA works fine! Moby **** (yes, the small nickname I sometimes give to my Superb3, since it makes me think to a White Whale ) stopped on it own ~2" before hitting the box. Well everything is fine now and it didn't cost me a single €! Happy with it! The other good news, is that I don't need to upgrade my Micro-CAN VCDS to a HEX-V2 version, at least for a while!

I also have the OEM front & rear rubber mats. Very resistant to gravel and... kids Don't forget the rubber tunnel cover, especially if you have kids. Very efficient and resistant.

Hi @newbie69 I think my memory starts getting weak... Reading your comment, I did not recognize what I faced to make this mod. Sorry I've made a mistake. Now it comes back correctly to my mind. I only swapped both ends. I replaced the top and bottom plastic parts only with corresponding metallic parts. I kept the housing from the original key. For instance, the knobs side and the battery cover come from the original key. Sorry again if I misled you!

Hi, I only bought the key fob housing. There was no electronic board in it. I had to retrieve the electronic part, battery and 'key blade' (sorry I don't find how to translate properly, hope you can catch what I mean) from my original plactic key fob. You got it for the logo. You need to warm it gently to ease the removal. But you rather have to retrieve it once the original shell is empty to avoid potential damage on the electronic board components due to overheat exposure.

Hi @newbie69 I did this mod recently to get a 2nd key fob as the main one. I've bought one from aliexpress for few quids and all is fine! Left = Before / Right = After: I just took the logo from one of the 2 original plastic key fobs. The one from Ali was for a VW model indeed...

As @SkudMissile21 said. There is a wear sensor on front pads. Not very surprised with 95000 km. I've driven several VAG vehicles and I sold all of them before needing to replace the brake pads. Audi A3 Mk2: 119000 km. Superb Mk2: 117000 km. Audi Q3 Mk1: 133000 km (still used by my wife). All with original pads (TRW). Note: the Q3 pads min thickness is 9mm (incl. backing plate), they're still 12mm! On Superb Mk3, the min thickness (including backing plate) on brake pads is: Front: 7mm Rear: 7.6mm Have a look here on official Workshop manual (see P109 & 110): https://cardiagn.com/skoda-superb-iii-maintenance/

It may be the "step too far"... Just try with photoshop or whatever picture post-processing SW, to get at least a rough idea of what it may look like. I fear it looks 'too empty' and makes the boot appearance 'heavier'. If I had a FL version, I would be tempted to remove the S K O D A lettering too, but I would remplace it by a pre-FL simple Skoda emblem (only personal feeling).

It could inherited from Audi A6 or Audi Q3 for instance. It is recommended to fold it out to bring more comfort for long trips. For daily use, it's better to stow it to avoid any side shock (kick) and thus potential damage when getting into the car... But... In stow position this can become a kind of 'dust bag'... This my humble experience based on my wife's Audi Q3 Mk1.

Uh... ... Depending on the website, where you bought it, I would rather return it to the seller and buy a new one, that can bear any oil or grease. The one I've bought is a Sealey ref. VS404. It's clearly written on the box, that it can be used either with grease, oil or brake fluid. I don't really know, why this one can't be used with grease and oil... May be because the seal is not oil resistant? But I wouldn't play with that kind of thing just to save some euros, which could lead to much more expensive damage... Note: I'm not a specialist, It's only my personal approach/feeling.

Oh, OK, I catch you then! Yes, the Haldex oil is quite thin (thinner than engine oil). Thus, to avoid spilling oil upon syringe removal, you need to keep its head up. With one hand you gently bring the piston rod downwards, whereas with your over hand you pull the hose out and keep it updwards. But even with your best efforts, be sure there will be few oil drops on your work area...

@JR RS Thanks again for this additional information. One of the ross-tech forum specialists told me there should be a CF controller for RTA. But he admitted he wasn't 100% sure of it. This explains my previous message. If you say you don't see any CF controller with your HEX-V2 cable, this make me think I should concentrate on RTA controller or harnesses connectors. A good step forward anyway! Thanks!

Uh.. I sincerely don't know. Upon VCDS forum, my Micro-CAN cable starts being outdated and doesn't see any 'CF' controller, which should be seen, since it is to deal with RTA... Therefore I'm assuming that a cable upgrade to HEX-V2 could help scanning this 'CF' controller. Anyway, thanks for this picture @JR RS. Very clear and helpful!

Conclusion of check drive today: 'Lane Assist' and 'Blind Spot Detection' are operating properly again ! On the other hand, I didn't have the opportunity to test the Rear Trafic Assist... This morning upon engine start, I had this "Rear Trafic Assist temporarily unavailable" error message... This evening, when leaving work place, no error message upon engine start... By the end of this week, I'll make a test with a carton box to see if the RTA is operating, and I'll check under the rear bumper to see if there's anything wrong on the controller connectors. This is the only short term solutions I see, before I have to spend some € to upgrade my VCDS Mrico-CAN to HEX-V2. The RTA controller cannot be seen from my Micro-CAN, indeed. I'll let you know the next results of my investigations.

It's always a question of personal taste. I full debadged the rear of my TDI190 4x4. Not a big fan of 4x4 badge in particular. I rather have clean appearance. Only one tip: do what you like, not what others think! It's YOUR car...

OK. thanks. Lucky you !

@JR RS Thanks for having checked. Did you ever have the same problem and if yes, did you have a SW update to solve the problem? Thanks

Coming back to this software update solution proposed by some dealers... If anyone (@Parked ?) , who had the software updated, could share a VCDS scan, to see what is their new SW version, I would appreciate very much. On my Superb MY2017, I have following SW version: Address 3C: Lane Change (J1086) Labels:| 5Q0-907-686.clb Part No SW: 5Q0 907 686 C HW: 5Q0 907 686 C Component: HRE_Master H12 0080 Serial number: 0454107103 Coding: 02012103 Shop #: WSC 33361 790 00140 ASAM Dataset: EV_HREntryHella 001028 ROD: EV_HREntryHella_VW37.rod VCID: 3D5FD9FDAC628D6C29-8068 Lane change assistance control module 2: Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 5Q0 907 685 C HW: 5Q0 907 685 C Component: HRE_Slave H12 0080 Serial number: 0453826901 Coding: 020121 Note: My Mk3 is fitted with Lane Assist / Blind Spot Detection / Rear Cross Traffic Assist. Thanks for your help!

Hi all! I've just been trying to recode the '3C Lane Assist' controller. And... Gooooood news ! It seems to work! At least I don't get anymore fault code on both '3C Lane Change ' and '10 Park/Steer Assist' controllers! I even can tick/untick all boxes (Lane Assist / Blind Spot Detection / Rear Traffic Assist) from the steering wheel without any biiip (error like). Thus, here is what I've done: First, I recoded the 3C Controller with its original coding 02012103. Then I made a FIRST scan. There I started to get cold sweat, since I still had the fault code on '10 Park/steer Assist' Controller and on top of that, though I had recoded the '3C Lane Change' controller, I had a new fault code saying it was NOT coded... Gasp... Very disappointed. I even thought I had made a mess! I cleared all fault codes. Then I've made a SECOND scan: Oooh?!? No fault code anymore on both '3C Lane change' and '10 Park/Steer Assist' controllers. Hmmm... It starts smelling good! At this time, I tried to tick boxes from the steering wheel and... I could tick/untik all of them without any biiip or error message on the cockpit. Great!!! I than made a THIRD scan: Still no fault code, but... a "Park/Assist function temporarily unvailable" error message popped up on the cockpit... I already had this message sometimes and when I restarted the engine the error message disappeared... but not systematically... Well. I think that's it for today, since I have to wait for tomorrow to have a check drive and see if everything has come back to normal. Anyway at this time, I truly thank the VCDS support on their forum. I keep fingers crossed. I'll come back to you to give you the conclusion of this solution.

I've to say I've never been a big fan of Dragon Green color at all. BUT with this sun light, I really like this pic! Nice! In France the Skoda catalog says 'Dragon Yellow'... So... Green / Yellow, who really knows / cares? Anyway definitely not a common color! Good point that some owners dare!

Amazing!

Hej min vän @newbie69 Sorry for the time response. Good thing that you MPed me! Here is the syringe I've bought: https://www.amazon.fr/Sealey-VS404-seringue-dinspection-fluides/dp/B00BTYPBP0/ref=sr_1_5?__mk_fr_FR=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&dchild=1&keywords=pompe+à+graisse+sealey&qid=1618515568&sr=8-5 The hose is approximately 1cm diameter. Actually, since there are graduations on the syringe, you know when you're about to reach 650ml and you can anticipate when it should starting spilling out. Thus, no risk of being "showered" with Haldex oil... Same thing with 2nd top up. Of course prepare some rags, just in case and a cardboard to protect your floor from stains if needed. This oil also smells strong. Your working area may smell Haldex Oil for a while if you don't protect your floor. But it's not a big deal... Actually, you're pointing something interesting. When I did it, I didn't find any advice about this. But recently the french VAG website from which I got most of my information had released a specific web page, were they describe how to prime the pump properly with VCDS: https://www.vag-perf.fr/preparation-chassis/transmission/procedure-vcds-pour-lamorcage-de-la-pompe-dhaldex-lors-de-la-vidange/ See § 3.3 in particular. I know, it's in french, but... Google tanslate is you're friend. Fortunately the snapshots are from an english VCDS version. More seriously, if needed, MP me if you want me to translate some paragraphs of this web page. But concretely, it's only a way to check that the priming procedure went OK. There's no setting to do, at least according to this website. I don't know what about the Gold R page you're referring to. I assume the priming operation could enable the Haldex Controller to reset the control parameters on its own. But It's only a guess. Oups! You're right for the oil P/N reference . A mistyping indeed! I'll ask a moderator to correct it. The procedure you've pasted seems a bit more complete. But as you can see there's no really setting to do. It's only a test performed twice and then potential fault codes cleaning... Now, it's up to you! And please make your feedbacks once done! Enjoy and take care!

@Parked Thank you for your feedback. In parallel, I opened a thread on ross-tech forum. They helped me to notice that for an unexplained reason the "3C - Lane Assist" controller has lost its coding, though it doesn't pops up any fault code ! The thing, is I still can tick the Lane Assiste system from the multi-function steering wheel. Really strange. Additionally, my Micro-CAN doesn't see the "CF" controller, which is for Rear Cross Traffic Alert. This being said, I think you're right, the SW needs to be updated or at least recoded. Fortunately, I had an older autoscan version where I've found the original coding. I now have to recode it as it was, or at least I have to try. I don't know if my Micro-CAN will handle this . If not, I'll either have to upgrade my current VCDS cable to a HEX-V2 version or to go to my local dealer to have a software update. But since warranty is over since December 2019. I fear it will cost me a lot for the actual requested time... To be continued...

I assume SG stands for Sasha Grace?

Thanks @JR RS Much appreciated! I have 2 days off, I'll try to have a look at it.