Phil-E

I would just hold off then. It's very likely that it will have a 12v feed that becomes live in reverse gear. If it comes with a can bus decoder then it should have this function. It just saves a load of hassle of tapping into wires and using relays etc. Have you sorted out your DAB antenna yet?

Which stereo have you got? I found that on my aftermarket Android stereo it has a 12v+ reverse signal. And since I have to run the video cable to the front (via the headlining) it wasn't any extra work to run an extra cable and connect this to the 12v at the stereo. It's also a "clean" signal with no interference etc.

In theory yes. But it needs to be within the wiper sweep to work for the wipers. But also would have to be mindful of not obstructing the windscreen. Obviously the best solution is a new screen. Perhaps you can speak with a friendly windscreen fitter and see if they would be willing to swap it out for one with a rain sensor. And if it just so happens that the screen gets a massive stone chip in the meantime that can't be repaired... As for the wiper stalk there is no difference between the stalk on a car with or without auto wipers. It's just that with auto wipers the first position becomes auto and the dial on top adjusts the sensitivity. Without auto wipers the first position is intermittent and the dial adjusts the time. You could check with VCDS if the controller already fitted to the car maybe already supports auto wipers etc. So in reality it may only be a matter of the windscreen, wiring harness (or make your own wires up since it's only 3 or 4 wires I think), connect to the controller and code with VCDS.

If you don't already have the rain and light sensor then it's a no go. You'd also then need a new windscreen!

The car can charge the battery while driving. But depends on the settings. But as above it isn't the nose efficient way to use it. It's probably in ECO or auto mode which will only put power back into the battery while braking and coasting etc. There should be other modes in the settings. Battery hold will not use the battery and keep the level. There should be one that charges the battery. Can't remember what it's called.

So looking at the instructions it can be used on either side of the turbo. So unless you know which side is sticking then you'll probably have to do the inlet and exhaust side. For the inlet it needs to go in where the air filter joins the turbo inlet. It says to rev the engine to 2000rpm while squirting in short bursts. And some extra revs may be required to avoid stalling. Then let idle for a few mins and then take it for a gentle drive. For the exhaust side you'd have to unbolt the exhaust/catalytic converter or unbolt it from the exhaust manifold.

And I'm pretty sure the cleaner goes into the exhaust side of the turbo? Not into the black pipe as that's the pipe coming from the turbo. Putting it in there means it bypasses the turbo completely and goes into the engine. What cleaner have you bought? Where does it say it needs to go?

No. The turbo is right there at the front of the engine. Bottom of your pic below the 2 red arrows. That's it.

There's very little information around the internet on it and I had to take a bit of a gamble as couldn't find any solid info of whether it would work or not. But it did. Kept the original aerial and no need to feed any new wires to the stereo from the rear. And like I say the reception is crystal clear and it picks up all the DAB+ stations. They're about to add 16 more stations here in Germany too!

Ah I was going to suggest another solution but since you've already bought it you may want to try yours first. I went for the kit that uses the built in aerial in the rear side window of the estate. On the pillar by that window is an amplifier. The kit comes with a passive amplifier that then feeds all the signals via the existing aerial wire to the stereo. The kit then comes with an amplifier/splitter that connects at the back of the stereo and gives you the normal AM/FM and also a DAB output. Signal has been crystal clear with hardly any dropout. The kit I bought was the Alpine KAE-DAB1G6.

Do you have an estate or hatchback? And have you already bought the new aerial?

The issue with not being to exit the menus is a software bug on the stereo. There is a software fix somewhere for the Octavia that I found. Have you checked the coding in the instruments and in the radio? There are some options in there I believe. In the radio coding I believe there are some options regarding display type etc.

I get the impression you don't do many long journeys are journeys at dual carriageway speeds etc? Another factor is that the car is new and if it's the first real time it's fully warmed up and everything has got hot then the new chemicals and coatings etc have burnt off slightly and also contributed to the smell. The DSG clutches are more than capable of coping with higher speeds. I can drive at max speed on the Autobahn and they'll be fine. If anything it's slower speed where you are most likely to experience clutch slip and therefore clutch smell. Driving at a steady speed the clutch is fully engaged but slow speed manouvernig or start-stop the clutch is often partially engaged.

Interesting. I'll take a look at that. Yes I have lived in Paderborn for just over 3 years now.

Yeah I found the boot switch mounted cameras a bit neater and more OEM. As you say it's also then central.

This is the camera I used on my FL estate. Perfect fit and the static guide lines can be de-activated as my stereo also has the dynamic lines on it. https://m.de.aliexpress.com/item/32867335459.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.40694c4d2lxkng

I went for the handle rear view camera since I already have LED number plate lights (that are fully E marked and TÜV friendly).

I guess it all comes down to what you want. I'd say the diesels are out if you only do low mileage (although the 1.9 doesn't have a DPF). The early 1.4 TSI and 2.0 TSI suffered from timing chain issues but they were fixed around 2011/12 and I'd expect a car of that age to have had a new one by now if it was one of the problematic engines. 1.4 is a great little engine. If you have the chance to test drive it as well as a 2.0 then do. It's a very good match to the 7 speed DSG and feels a bit nippier and sharper than the 6 speed.

By the looks of it you need a Columbus/RNS510 radio trim/surround. It appears to the be the same shape to me. I bought one from AliExpress (or Wish o can't remember) and the quality was very good I have to say. You can buy genuine ones from Skoda and they're also not too expensive apparently (depending on the colour).

You can't do anything with it. It's just a display of the climate settings that pops up when you change something.

With regards to the DSG, I've found the key to a smooth set off from standstill is to take my foot off the brake, let the car realise that's what I've done (the revs rise to 1000rpm in my 1.4 TSI and clutch starts to engage) and then lightly press the throttle. If you try and press the throttle too sharply or before the clutch has bitten it almost always end up with a jolt forward. I can only liken this to a manual where you would press the throttle harder and suddenly release the clutch. And also setting off from roundabouts etc (while still creeping forward). What you may find is that the gearbox is between gears. It drives in 1st but upon pressing the throttle to set off it uses 2nd gear (and the 2nd clutch) and slips the clutch to smooth out the change. This makes it feels sluggish but it isn't really. Just hold a steady, light but firm throttle and the car will sort it out.

As above. There is a pretty common problem with the accumulator splitting. This can on first sight look like a clutch failure. But a fault code (or two) should appear with this fault. It's also very easy to sort out. Drain oil, remove cover, replace parts (comes with a kit with a new seal etc), refit the cover and refill the gearbox.

Wow. That's shocking. But sounds like the dealer has just assumed that the car will be suitable for towing a d gone off the general boom figures for this. It probably stated somewhere in the paperwork the dealer had from Skoda that the car isn't suitable for towing. But it was their responsibility to know about this and inform you so that you could make an informed decision and not buy the car (since it's not suitable for your use). I think it's gonna come down to the dealer having to put things right with you and they have to battle it out with Skoda UK. It would seem unfair for them to keep you waiting and getting you involved in the bath and forth between them. I remember reading that a certain model and spec of the Kodiaq not being suitable for towing (was it the 7 seat with DSG or something). And the MK1 Fabia vRS never got towing approval and also the MK2 Fabia vRS I think.

We just moved our record player into the living room. Along with the Pioneer stereo system. We just weren't using it in the other room. It's been nice to have it in there and looks pretty good on an Ikea Kallax shelf as the records fit perfectly inside the squares. Sounds much better in a bigger room too. We've also ditched out cheapo soundbar (now in the bedroom) and have the TV hooked up to the stereo instead. Thankfully Logitech had the stereo in their database so I was able to add it to the Harmony remote. So one click on the remote and the stereo comes on with the TV and switches to the correct input etc.

I think it goes to under the driver's seat. Don't think it does to the back of the stereo. Should just be a 2 wires + & - I didn't have an OEM microphone so I bought a Fiscon that fits I to the OEM slot in the interior light but has a standard 2.5mm socket that plugs straight my Android radio.