imart143

you can manually return pistons on rear wheels, look some video on ytb, its easy and without costs. separate plastic part with motor ny unscrewing 2 little bolts, and on motor return the piston pin clockwise. fit motor unit back. activation is also easy. install the pads, do the same for the second wheel, and then just get in the car, turn on the ignition and tighten the handbrake a couple of times, release it and it will adjust itself, that means you do both wheels. Everything just comes back when you activate the foot brake, it will return the cylinders to the end and you then pump the oil with your foot. if you think you can mantain car by yourself, get some tool, i have Obdeleven 3. and you will have many many tools to buy. do you know about automechanic job, just brakig pads and oil and filters?

no, but very easy to see oil on dipstick, also is thicker and will stay on it longer to look. no mess and muliple attempts.

cold or warm, there should be no difference more than 1mm on dipstick. also i calculated that i am reading it cold, it will show little more than warm. but when is cold, and dipstick is 100% clean it will be more easy to spot the line, without oil in dipstick channel or elsewhere.

when i check oil, i pull dipstick out, clean it properly with some alcohol and leave it outside engine till next morning, cover the dipstick area with a cloth. than all oil will be at the bottom. in morning only 1st attempt, put it in, wait few seconds and pull out. since stick is not greasy, you will surely see very good line to which is filled.

Let them give you a short ride.

These numbers are not accurate, the ecu combines the amount of fuel in the tank, your average speed and the time you spent traveling and then outputs informative data, not exact measurements. If you really want to know your average consumption, you have to repeat the procedure several times: fill it to the top, drive 100km, fill it to the top again and see how much you put in the tank, and so on several times, try filling it in the same place, you will get the most accurate consumption.

inlet mainfold surely need to be cleaned with no doubt.. 700€

let them flash original ecu software and then see how it works. i would not ever buy remapped car. mine is remapped but when and if i will sell it i will do flash original software. that car probably have missfires, which can be seen on diagnostic tool. they probably lied.

usb ports of AA should be dead after locking car. only 12v cigarette lighter have permanent voltage. i have AA adapter, this stuff avoid to buy cheapest. it didnt work for me properly too. but for about 60€ decent AA adapter can be purchased.. https://www.ottocast.com/en-hr/products/a2air-pro?srsltid=AfmBOoqsm6GvpVlRmv4kOBU-Tgp1qT2uISSfukWTVuSafKhPBtJnVoGd

says that it exist, rear right side in front of wheel.

EA888.3 - NGK ILFER7C8EG EA888.4 - NGK SILFER8C7ES

Sure castrol magnetec and some total Ineo are mid saps. People often use them for TDI 1.9 Pumpe duse. But i dont know. 5W40 dont flow fast enough when engine is cold.

dont use 5w40, it is old A3/B4 oil, since your car have particulate filter, if you didnt remove it, it demand low saps oil. in manual says 5W-30, 0W-30 / VW 504 00. if you live in colder area then 0w30, if you live in warmer area 5w30. in all other cases use 0w30, shorten intervals, 5000 miles, and your car will be happy. nevemind if it would consume more oil, those modern oils are superb. mine tuner also with revo map on 1.5 tsi 150 ks / 250 Nm, remaped to 190 ks / 290 Nm said me use 5w40. nonsense, i am using shell helix ultra AV-L 0w30 from beginning. all great, only consumtion of gasoline and oil increases, but that is normal. that chip tuners and remappers are electronic and informatic technitians, not car mechanics or mechanical engineers..

maybe its faulty. try use second one with your android

even better..

i am on 1yo Bridgestone Turanza All Season 6, 215/55-17, i have that wheel size but i am planning 16, like Yeti had, 215/60-16..

you are sure dongle support both apple carplay and android auto? with this dongle you cant have multiple connections, so remove wife-s iphone and proceed.. i had sometimes issues, go to android auto app and adjust for your settings (in sams settings, not icon available) go to place where not other wifi exists, not at home, garage etc to catch home wifi. pull out SD crds from glove box (media) first connect by wire and do a setup on your phone, also in app android auto turn off battery optimisation. on aa app home screen right upper corner turn on developer options and enter, check first box: "wireless android auto" return to main, go out of app and leave phone to turn screen off or turn it off by power button. than try restart mltimedia and select APP button and screen nirrorlink AA shoukd appear, turn off the screen on multimedia and wait10 seconds than turn it on (not phone, multimedia) connecting better goes with mobile screen off. it should work.

prolonged interval is for all 1.5 tsi engines, no matter which type or year, from 2017 till today. change it when you will change on any other petrol car. 100-150000 kms is my period, so i will change it then. i told you tehnically why it was 50000 kms. not even one belt dyes that soon. it was connected to possible off timing, so maybe timing should be corrected. but its all trash. car makers dont test new engines in real environments, but send them to sale asap. testing engine should be done for every engine, at least 1 year driving in all conditions to 100-150000kms. i think Kia and Hyundai do this. then know what to expect from engine. otherwise, we, customers are test drivers and have to pay to be that.

i would put smart charger to terminal parts, just to keep 12V.

just a hint: you dont have to disconnect battery terminals for changing bulbs.

post newer one.

dust rich countries change timing belt on 120000 kms, non dust, normal countries - lifetime, they suppose that 1.5 tsi will not live long enough to reach 200000 kms like diesels, nonsense.

It seems logical to me that the belt wears out more in conditions where there is sand and dust in the air, and not the other way around.

me too. i bought those for MT, didnt fit so well as oem, and i put it on strong double sided tape and now its firm.

The belt and tensioner bearings are of the same quality as on the 2.0 tdi engines and the reason why the timing belt was initially replaced on the 1.5 tsi at 50,000 was because the engineers believed that by that mileage the timing belt would be out of alignment +/- 1.0° so it would need to be readjusted, and since you have to remove everything to adjust it anyway, the belt is also replaced. After 3-4 years they realized that the ACT system worked proprly at 50,000 or 100,000, then they realized that adjustment was unnecessary. and then they logically returned the interval to the same as for all their engines, because I have never heard or seen a belt break at TDI, TSI on 100,000-150,000, but only if it is not replaced at more than 250,000. There are also alternative tools for adjusting the timing belt. this tool is about 200€