Kenai

The 19s in black are harder to find because they were pretty much only fitted to Prefacelift 230s, earlier 245 'Edition' cars and the 245 Challenge.

Wouldn't pin much worth on that list - I've successfully used 4 different phones with mine, none of which are on the list.

It wasn't activated as standard on a 2015 vehicle regardless of whether you have the appropriate hardware (ie MIB2). You need to get it enabled, there are people / companies who offer this service outside of the dealer network for a relatively reasonable fee. If the car was advertised as having it, you could try to persuade the dealer to enable for free as it missold to you.

Would certainly seem so, whilst I know some businesses will tolerate a loss trying to disrupt a marketplace enough to leave themselves dominant, Cazoo have posted hundreds of millions in losses in just a couple of years along with now starting to heavily cut staff. I don't see how it's going to be sustainable.

I don't think it's capable of those type of services... 😉

Is that £300 for just VAQ service and new plugs?

I think it's part of the low pressure fuel pump, not designed to be a serviceable item.

I'd have pointed the finger of suspicion at 'retrofitted' before GPS errors personally. I'd be inclined to try and find someone who could perhaps double check the coding associated with the retrofit has been done correctly.

The closest thing you'll see is... 5.2.3. Tyres You only need to inspect the tyres fitted to the road wheels at the time of the inspection. If you notice a defect on a spare tyre, you should advise the vehicle presenter. Taking the spare out "just in case" is a total waste of time and effort.

See this said a lot but never found such a clause in the MOT inspection manual, would be interested to see it if you know which clause it is.

We're a long way off EVs that'll meet the sort of ultra range, charge in 5 minutes requirements being discussed here. Those sort of requirements are an outlier compared to the average motorist and so its not going to be a key development focus for many, if any, of the manufacturers. For most customers, a requirement to smash out 300 miles plus without a break, so routinely that a half hour charge is such an inconvenience as to dismiss a car, is just not needed. When you look at the average mileages people do, a 300 mile range would last your average motorist a week or two. Even when I was racking up nearly 20k a year, I can think of a literal handful of times that I did more than 200 miles without an opportunity that I could have topped up an EV. Edit - and as for the original question, my best measured (rather than obc) full tank average mpg from a 245 is 44.63mpg

Part of the problem is that £12k isn't much of a budget for a Mk3 vRS TSI estate in the current market - no matter where you're looking or how often, you won't see cars come up at this sort of price very often. If £12k is a hard limit, then accept that your search will be long, drawn out and with cars appearing very sporadically.

I recall reading another post recently, though can't find it to link, with someone else who couldn't remove the Nav SD Card - it turned out the slot had been fitted with a locking device due to previous use a hire car, so nobody nicked the card during hire.

It folds and sticks to the boot floor like velcro to hold things in place. Obviously doesn't work with rubber or plastic boot liners.

Any improvement in driving feel or not yet had a chance to give it a proper go?

I wonder if it's an early symptom of a weak / failing battery?

Mine is supposedly active and apparently used to work at some point because I can see some data if I log in to Skoda Connect but the last 'update' is about 2 years old now. Don't know when or why it stopped working, it didn't tell me anything I couldn't see when I was in the car anyway by the looks of it.

Even so, the 'Since Start' numbers should persist for up to 2 hours or so between ignition off and a restart - i've had some long waits at level crossings in my time but none have lasted a couple of hours yet! 🤣

Even those shouldn't reset to zero just from a short duration ignition cycle like waiting at a crossing though?

I'd want that in writing, as I bet Skoda would have a different opinion if you were to need to claim warranty work on it later. (though perhaps less of an issue if you don't have any warranty beyond 3 years)

They look like the 16" Comet alloy, which this page would suggest is a 6.5J ET43 wheel https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/en_CZ/alloy-wheel-comet-16-for-fabia-ii-roomster/p/5J0071496H+FL8 As @KenONeill says - the information will be cast on the back of the spokes - that'll give you absolutely correct information. If you can't get the wheels off yourself, just hold your phone behind the wheel to take photos - might take a few attempts but you should be able to get a picture of the relevant bit of info.

That's a bit of an open ended question without any context. Why would you be thinking about upgrading them in the first place? What are you hoping to achieve? Is it worth it? If you have a totally stock car and no plans to modify it - probably not. If it's a 500bhp modified monster and you're having problems with the ignition that's caused by the coils - it probably is worth it.

Lane assist won't be active, in either the 'active' guise or the normal mode below 65kph/40mph - so if the issues are occurring at speeds down to 30mph as suggested, it wouldn't seem likely it's anything to do with the lane assist functions. My thinking regarding the suspension was that the 'diving down' sounded a bit like when a rear spring broke on my old Golf (which happened after the wheels had been off with the car on a ramp and the suspension was allowed to fully unload) but if the car has been fully checked over and no such issues are present, it all sounds a bit odd. Running out of ideas that don't involve spanking another £300+ on new tyres (though on the plus side, plenty of people will snap up some barely used PS4 tyres in 225/40/18, so you should be able to get something back). Not that I imagine it would make much difference in the dry but would be worth checking for daft things like inner/outer markings to make sure they're not fitted incorrectly. Ultimately it maybe that the difference you're noticing is the softer sidewall of the PS4 vs the (by comparison) stiffer Eagle F1 Asymmetric sidewalls but i've never personally found this to be such an extreme difference as to cause the car to be described as wallowy or vague. It might benefit from running the pressures slightly higher (closer to the 'eco' pressures on the fuel cap) if it is the sidewalls you're feeling, perhaps enough to put up with until you're rid of the car. Comparison between the MPS4, EF1AS5 and CPC6 on an Octavia vRS, he describes the difference in feel from around 4 minutes in - maybe it's this that you're noticing? Though as I say above, i'd be surprised if it was such a difference as to cause the car to be described as 'wallowy'.

Can you elaborate on 'the car seems to dive down'? That sounds more like failing suspension somehow rather than something tyres would cause, there isn't enough travel in the sidewall of a tyre to make a car feel like it's 'diving down', unless i'm completely misinterpreting what you mean

The automatic gearbox will return to 'normal' configuration following an ignition cycle (it may not reset with a very short duration cycle, cant remember), regardless of the mode that the car may or may not have retained. This is somewhat annoying behaviour if it's Eco you want it left in, as you need to reselect Eco mode, whereas Sport can be re-engaged with a simple pull back on the stick.