VWD

I haven't heard of any, but simpler IMHO to use a cheap free view box with scarf to VCR.

Perhaps as a Neighbourhood watch guy I should applaud these schemes, but I live a problem area and I have one security device. Its been replaced/upgraded over years,but trespassers do not like it, as its linked next door. He/she has hearing better than ours, and the ability to "talk " to the one next door. Its called Dog. Walk in my garden, and I know.And Regime next door knôws too.

Gaz basic method, using VCR , is to connect aerial to "in" socket of VCR and out socket of VCR to TV aerial in socket. Tune TV to stations, then tune tune TV to find VCR. You can then tune VCR to find TV stations and use VCR to select channel. IF TV and VCR have a SCART socket, then I prefer tuning VCR and letting TV& VCR talk via scart Xmans method of letting TV & VCR talk is good one. Its simple to me, but that's my background.

Aspman, I can't remember the organisation name, but there's an organisation run by older folk and backed/helped by police to set up speed monitoring sessions. I'd try looking for them. They operate sessions with police provided monitoring and police send letters to drivers. No legal force, but they don't want to get a few of these letters. Community speed watch comes to mind.

Sep, bottom end of spring sits in cup on shock. Apart from bolts through wing, what holds top end of shock in place in bearing. I'm looking at diy shock/ top mount in summer as original kit is 20/year old /135k, a couple of new springs and a not of miles over tank traps.

Removed, please delete

Strange subject. I always wonder if disc wear is a "nice little earner" for some MOT places. I've had my car since 2007, at 14k. It had an MOT at 2year old with "pitting " noticed on disc as advisory( that year and a few more times). I've it later mentioned at tyre changes , so I decided to check it out. At 100k, pad was 20.5 on mic.New was 21, replace at 19mm. RAC bloke had as look and suggested Its down to disc not being swept by pad. Suggestion, grind outside of disc. But at first pad change,I had problems. The early MOT I got with car never mentioned any disc problems .I found the advisory on line, so I'd suggest pads had been changed ( possibly at a "fast fit") place by gents with spurs on boots. Local machine shop suggested I was right when they fitted helicoils. But they did say that certain designed are more prone to failure. As for Allen keys , I found a set of various sizes , which needs a 10mm socket. But I've noticed(/possibly it a vRS mod) that on 05 models, the Allen bolts are replaced by hex bolts.

Sep. Talking about cost north of Glasgow, but yep, agreed but not limited to those you mentioned. Most of the vans ( of any colour) run around like headless chickens, so its not surprised they make RM/Parcel force look like pros. Possibly down to rates paid to drivers.

For those looking for other grades of oil for older engines, Asda might be worth a look, but latest offerings are 4L time. I don't know what the petrol engines need, but they seem to have differing grades, not just 5L of 505.01.Their wiper blades are not bad at £4 a side.

For anyone unfortunate ( like me) to have to replace only one rear shock, I'd recommend Energized custom (/Telford based) for price ( and will supply singles) . The only problem from them( not theirs, but choice of courier) is courier Evri, who seem to loose parts for a day. I've had this with Evri twice, with parcel left on doorstep but Royal mail is offered as alternative. , Energized were gracious enough to refund part of cost. However couriers have problems with anything up north.

OK, I know its not good practice to replace rear shocks by side( should be both) but at times circumstances and finances say different. Long story short. This weekend I've had to replace one, and found Energize custom do let you buy one. Its a simple job. Remove wheel, remove arch liner ( 2.5 torx) and bottom bolt. You will need to support radius arm on an axle stand, and reduce pressure on bolt.Top mount bolts need to be removed then end bolt on stock. Shock shaft is a fit to top Mount. Last one was a slack fit, this one had to be "persuaded" using Haynes persuader. ( mash hammer)as its only a friction fit. Refit top/bottom bolts using Loctite and torque. For top mount bolts, a long socket extension is needed.

Sep, I got mine in Tamworth, approx 10 miles, but on a trip to give engine a run / get cheap fuel/ raise fingers rampant to local fuel places circa 7/10 p a litre higher.

Yep. typo. Senior moment, I could not remember the oil my PD uses. In fact, I'm finding finding a place thet stocks 505.01 rarer as days go by. I'm thinking I might have to swallow bullet and buy the other one( 507????). I've only spotted it in Tamworth , but not in local store. Im lucky that even at 135k mine uses a teaspoon , so I might look at Asda 3 litre tins of 505.01. Sorry, folks, I post when I can, but PC is in my upstairs den, and hip/knee do not like stairs, so once down I stay down, unless "medication" allows me up ,and "medication" can mean senior typos.

For those interested, Home Bargains had a 4 litre can of VAG 805.01 at a reasonable price.

Possibly a torque wrench down to 25 for sump plug and disc callipers

Engine code will say more,

One thing to check is outer of cable, where it is secured to suspension arm. Look for rust near the clip, as this can result in inner cable seizing. Remove drums and apply handbrake. Both sets of shoes should move. If not then suspect cables, and replace both as the original will have stretched. I found its a lot easier to change both at same time, to allow for easier equal cable tightening. And when inside drum, replace the adjusters/retaining kit and sliders.

Something I do know about after 50+ years on A8x roads. On the likes of A830 , you need good instant braking , but on other roads you need instant breaking with the ability for a good long hard slow down form a bit of speed, with something left at the end, just in case.

Thanks, choice between Bosch or Brembo. I changed over to Mintex pads last time, but pads are low and with discs getting a bit thin, thought it might be good time to do both, as I'm on 135k. Last mic on discs was a few years ago at 20.5 (Haynes / disc data says min 19mm) . The problem is that I can get at least 55k on a set of pads and at 5k a year that's a lot of time to remember.

As said, DISCS. At MOT advice was to look at a change, and as its now pad time as well, thought it might be a good time to look, considering I now do 5k average. Looked at a few sites and new disc makes is not something I've wondered about. Present set up now seems to have an occasional bit of fade , so perhaps might be time for a better bit of metal. Any suggestions in the decent to good range,. I've spotted Brembos at what I consider a decent price , but to me a disc is a disc. Any help appreciated.

From handbook, two sizes are quoted. I can't quite remember the alternative, but my 04 TDI was fitted with origonal makers boots when I got it as 185/60/14 . Few years ago , daughter scrapped a Laguna with 4 good 185/65/14 , and I got them sooner than me fitting news/worn at wrong time of year. Since then I've kept to that as it seems to handle better. Strangely my speedo is pretty muck ok, as checked on Sat nav. AP as said, I prefer ride and handling on 185/65/14.

BUT it does pay not to throw out those front car mats. I keep the old ones in boot, for when I get a bit of snow. Older blokes ( and BMW drivers, take head, BMW folks need string to tie to bumper ). As BMW drivers do not rate highly on my list of brain bots, I'll explain. Tie string to old mat, then tie to a bit of car. place in front of rear wheels, and drive of. Once you get somewhere, you can stop and drive off, retrieve mats and put in boot.

Lee- almost been there and got the T shirt. One day I put ladder up, and tied it , but didn't see dog poo under bottom of one leg. Got off pole, to ladder ,with belt on and ladder went squiffy. Sort of saved by belt as I still had one leg on step. BTW- you should never criticise the old leather belt with MK1 tetra, as done properly it was fall prevention before you fell.

As J.R. says, I've never had a car with central locking. But hot water on windows does create problems on older locks. So I use WD40 Earlier in year to stop problems ( bit like Lee tieing lader to pole , before he went up it, rather than whinging after coming off).

Unfortunately, locks in different parts of UK get colder/hotter depending on where you are/ live. I've lived in many parts of UK, over 50+ years of motoring, but the major factor is water vapour in locks. A hot key gets you in, but repelling moisture in lock works better. Graphite might work wonders, BUT after a few years water will get in and then its only a case of displacement.