VWD

I'd refer the poster ( with tongue in cheek) to my bit in brackets " OTHER BRANDS ARE AVAILABLE" . TBH, in over 50 years, I've found WD40 adequate. Even to a frozen lock.

I've always found that using the hand spray bottles of de icer is better than aerosol cans( I use Demon first thing). No arguements from SWMBO for leaving de icing stuff in house, after one year when we got iced out of car. And for the older Fabia owners, it might be a good time to treat seat belts to some Mr Sheen, before they suffer from damp . And again for those with aged MK1 Fabias and other makes of a geriatric nature, time to spray the front doorlocks with WD40 . I know its tempting to use hot water first thing, but a dollop of WD40 ( OTHER BRANDS ARE AVAILABLE) keeps water in the barrel etc at bay.

I'd forget all the charts etc. One thing missed from our mumbo jumbo is life of lamps. I've fitted LED in most places to MINIMISE lamp ( it's not a bulb. That grows in ground) FAILURE, THE CAUSE of a lot of accidents. My indicator lamps are LED, as are my sides and number plate ones. 25 YEARS ago, BR( PRELUDE TO nETWORK RAIL) SWAPPED signal lamps, filament type for LED. Most of these in signal heads/ road crossing warnings are still working. Perhaps its time for the dinosaurs in the DVLA testing department to wake up and consider whether a light with life s better than one to spec or one not working. But then, I just change mine when needed. Its easy on an older car.

Again, we are at cross purposes, or mixing LED with Halogen. My sides/indicators and brake lights ( aka lamps, sometimes miscalled Bulbs) are olde worlde filament types, which do not provide a fixed and regulated beam of light and can be replaced by LED TYPES. The only problem you will find is that the ECU checking circuit for the (rear) brake lights even on the very low spec models requires to see a certain level of current passing or the ECU determines that there is a fault. No special checks ( other than a go/no go test) on these lamps is performed. No special instruments, which is where some UNSCRUPULOUS MOT places can gain a retest by insisting that rear indicator lamps are "wrong " colour of orange. I replace any non focused lamp with a LED. Not for cost, But for reliability and safety.

Sorry, my MOT bloke is very pedantic on lights. He's shown me the regs, perhaps you Might like to read them

I've had LED lamps in my front indicators and sidelights for years. Mr MOT man tells me that only place they are not permitted is dip/main beam. And I've found out that the CPU does not like LED lamps fitted in the brake position. It throws up a fault as if brake switch was faulty.

Similar comment in Fabia handbook ( from memory- not needed , might cause problems, or as in germalise " non stuffen in engine, it makes holes stuff up"). I think the days of "snake oil remedies are long past".

In typical "tidy it away as done in over the river format" SWMBO has decided that my "brought into house for safekeeping" service manual was put in a safe place( skill passed down from mother to daughter in the boro as FIL told me) and my mobility scooter has rubbed the label under boot carpet. So only place I have I have to look is on VIN label( Passenger side on front inside wing/on V5). Once upon a time, long time ago e had a post on vehicle labels and I did post mine up. Sadly I can't find it, but if any( possible mod) can resurrect post I'd be grateful.

If you have air in system I'd suggest something like EEZIEBLEED. But then , you need to take advice ( looking at your history), before playing with brakes.

Foud the stuff, but now comes another question. How do I find paint code of Furby. My local paint shop can get me a 90% match, and local Halfrauds can get match on VIN, but its hiding place is a mystery, and I do not really trust Harrys{as on broomstickes) + mates in Halfrauds.

Sodding tablet. not enough space for my chunky fingers.

Keith- Vatcam, any ideas of stockists. My google searches cant find any source of it.

Different tweak. Circa high tech systems, we had a different form of protection. W were all good neighbours. The would bees would get spotted by a neighbour and other folks told. System still exists, today. Its called Neighbourhood Watch. Simple concept. It gives the limited police ( no political comments intended, please) a lot more eyes in residential streets. Perhaps it's time to return to a simpler life and see those around us as neighbours and friends, where we all protect each other. No need for high solutions, my other addition is( for those at home for part of the day) a rescue dog.

Q for SEP /other knowledgeable blokes on here. After buying my 1.4 TDI, I suspect my locking bolts had been "seen " to by cowboys. I subsequently found that one thread on carrier was damaged. Bloke who fitted helicoils said this is common. Same type of securing bolt carrier, and should OP check threads on carriers?

Plate on last battery? Mine is a 2004/70 and my first battery lasted almost 10 years. Second battery was an 096, which had problems with liner. That lasted almost as long. So I'd suggest 096. And tip- GSF( NO connection) had good prices/guarantee when I last looked.

Perhaps a watch of Wheelers is in order. Its common sense. Wheel balance not done leads to wheel wobble at around 60 MPH. Turbos spin at a lot more. Add imbalance wobble and rebuild costs go out window.

Solenoid? Simple check is to use an auto range DVM on solenoid. I seem to remember Sep saying that these were available. From my old days, drop across solenoid contacts should be less that 0.5v.

Thanks, Keith, what I was looking for. I used a few of these in my early days and they had little effect. Possibly as I was using it on Badly Made Cars. But I posted hoping someone had a good experience with one of these products Now can someone suggest a problem for ageing hips & knees. ( for me).

Gents, at almost 20 years, Furby is suffering from minor rust on Cills. Can any one recommend a treatment to hold back the invasion of time. I've tried sever things over the years, but nothing seemed to work.

Sep- wheres the "like button" As they say in a wll known store"woops" its just shown up. Gav- I found one drum screw loose ( proving they'd been in ) and another one solid. I'd suggest that the screw is only there to hold the drum on. With my method, you hand tighten the Allen bolt and then nip up the lock nut. Next t9ime, you simply back off the locknut, meaning that on a puncture, drum does not go "crazy" , especially as it tends to do at dark hours, on a country lane ,in the middle of nowhere.

Perhaps telling gran about sucking eggs, but. a word to those not so wise. After years of garage servicing, I found that the securing screws on my rear drums ended up rusted on and had to be subjected to the disc cutter treatment to remove. Simple solution, Use a similar grub screw as a replacement. I used an Allen screw ( was all I had in tool box) with a bolt on it. Bolt fits under the wheel. Next problem, leaky wheel cylinder with a hard to remove securing nut. Same treatment=disc cutter , and I used same idea to replace. MOT man was impressed.

A lot of shear bolts leave surfaces which mean that a small chisel will get shear bolts out. If that fails, "eaziouts" ( after drilling a hole in the bolt should get them out)

Sep, can you remove or get replacement solenoid/ can you get inside solenoid as one common problem is the contact pad. Limits for voltage drop on contact is 0.5volt. Years ago I used to "service" my solenoid by cleaning the contacts to remove corrosion. In over 50 years of driving I've never had a solenoid coil fail, but that is one possibility. Easily checked by measuring resistance of coil. Other possibility for "no click" is poor earth, as a bad earth will drop volts to solenoid and prevent it operating.

Just spotted this one, but something else to consider. A month or so ago, NHW was full of reports of a new craze. Ripping "Ring" doorbell cameras from the outside of houses. Gangs of rampant yoofs found this a new craze.

From memory of posts on Vrs rear brakes I thought that it was same system as Vauxhals- I stand corrected. But if handbrake run is same on all models, remember the clip on the radius arm. Mine looked ok, even to my old MOT man.But when I cus ends off and pulled inner out, cable was corroded and rusty.