FabiaGonzales

Yes, but it would depend on how the BSM handles the overrun charging. If it's designed to throw (for example, actual charging currents and voltages would be much lower) 100 amps at 15v at an EFB battery, A standard battery being given that voltage, would only soak up approx 50 amps or so due to its higher internal resistance, the BMS might try and compensate by increasing the voltage (to say, 16v), and the current would rise somewhat accordingly. The heat generated by charging is dependant upon the internal resistance and the current being accepted. This theoretical EFB battery has 0.15 Ohms internal resistance, and the theoretical standard battery has 0.30 Ohms internal resistance. The EFB battery would be seeing 0.15 Ohms * 100 amps, so it would see 1500 watts of power going into the battery. Because the internal surface area is much larger, this doesn't really pose an issue. The standard battery would be seeing 0.30 Ohms * 50 amps, so again it would see 750 watts of power going into the battery. No issues there yet, the lower surface area means it can accept less power. The standard battery being forced a higher charging rate (if the BMS were to try such a thing, perhaps to try compensate for the fact the battery isn't charging up enough between stop/start events), that increase to 16v charge voltage would only net 53 amps charging current, but it's now sucking in 853 watts. The overcharged standard battery just isn't going to last as long, it's going to get considerably hotter than it's designed to and it will slowly boil off the acid over time, futher reducing surface area and accelerating the issue till it's dead. Obviously real life values will be considerably lower, as internal resistances are nowhere near that low, but you get the idea. It's like a 100w light bulb vs a 50w light bulb, you can make a 50w bulb output the same amount of light as the 100w one by increasing the voltage (and therefore current), but that small fillament is going to melt very quickly.

It's difficult to find useful into, but EFB (and AGM) have considerably higher charge current acceptance than standard batteries. Here's one source; https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/agm-efb-explained/ Standard cells have limited electrode surface area due to their design (efb and agm fix that) and a battery can generally only accept so much current per the surface area at a given charge voltage. Depending on how the BMS is set up, it may keep the voltage low on regeneration (and therefore the current will be low too), in which case the battery will struggle to get charged up sufficiently before the next stop/start event, and will slowly become deeper discharged over time and fail quickly (standard batteries dont like low charge states, they sulphate), or it might try to push the same current as it would do for an efb or agm battery, it would do that by ramping up the voltage considerably which as we know can overheat and damage the battery by effectively boiling the acid off. With agm due to their design with lower internal resistance than standard cells they will pull more charge current at a given float voltage, that's why they need a lower float voltage, else they sit there sucking up all that current and overheat. It's easier to simply hold the battery at a lower state of charge (usually 80-90%) as the battery is still able to put out plenty of power, that charge level is fine for an agm battery and it also stays away from any overcharging.

A standard battery doesn't like the higher currents and voltages that the regenerative braking provides, EFB and AGM batteries don't like the constant charge voltage that a standard system provides. Ideally you should replace the battery with whatever type came with from factory. Nowadays it's generally safe to upgrade the types via coding the BMS (battery management system) which alters max charging currents and float voltages accordingly for the battery type installed, while going backward is also doable by the same methods, you're putting extra stress on a battery that wasn't designed for such activities. My factory installed EFB battery's going on toward 6 years of service now, not missed a beat. Why you want to replace a standard battery multiple times when a properly looked after correctly matched battery may not need replacing at all during the time you own the car? There are a lot more metrics to look at other than "engine starts" when it comes to car batteries. Standard cells don't like the deeper charge cycles that stop/start involves, for example, they prefer to be fully charged all the time, but stop/start is rarely going to allow that kind of condition. AGM doesn't like being sat on charge all the time when it's full, like when installed in a non stop/start car, rather they prefer the constant charge cycling of a stop-start system.

Some people have a thing for diesels lol. Standard batteries do not like the higher charging voltages and currents that the stop/start system uses. It can cause the acid to boil over and make the battery fail far sooner. Yuasa AGM 096 battery i found for something like £120 on amazon, are you sure yours is 096 size? That CCA sounds more like the larger 027 or whatever it is, i'm sure the diesels use a larger battery.

I do fairly mixed driving nowadays, some longer 30-40 mile trips but usually 5-10 mile ones with occasional shorter less than one milers, and i generally leave stop/start enabled. My car's coming up to 6 years old now and the original battery is still going strong, every now and then i take it to halfords for their free battery tests and it keeps coming back flying colours, usually performing a little above it's ratings. My battery has definitely done more than its fair share of cranking. Back when lockdown first started, my car sat for just over 3 weeks, i got in it, it started up straight away, i got to the end of the street and to my surprise, stop/start kicked in. When i'd had my hybrid turbo done it'd been sat with ignition on for a lot of time having maps altered etc between dyno runs and had drained the battery somewhat, stop/start didn't function for 3-4 days after and reported "engine must be running". Still didn't have any trouble starting and no warnings on the dash or anything. Once it'd got back up to an acceptable charge level stop/start started kicking in again.

Decent branded batteries in the key fob last quite a long while. My Duracell CR2025 bought from amazon nov 2019 is still going strong at the moment. Cheaper ones you may have lying around often only last a couple of months or sometimes even less, i had some energiser ones which didn't even last a single journey before suddenly dying completely. CR2025's seem to be a very mixed bag but people have had good experiences with the Duracell ones, some grab em from Amazon, some from supermarkets etc.

Toe camber and caster are all somewhat adjustable on the front. When i first did the wishbones on mine all the adjustments were wayyy out, and like yours within about 150 miles i'd completely trashed the 3mm of remaining tread down to about 0.5mm! Good job i didn't get stopped by police... After the alignment the whole lot felt so much more incredibly precise and responsive, was like a new car haha The rear is pretty much non adjustable without the aid of shims, that's why being lowered can cause wear irregularities on the rear tyres (and why it's suggested to swap them back to fronts more often and in a cross pattern if the tyres are non directional).

I queried JBS about it when i had the hybrid done. You can very easily swap the boxes out and shouldn't need to change anything else. For coding in for the gear recommendation (and cruise in 6th) i'm not too sure what's needed, best to message JBS about that i imagine. The 5 speed box is PED, the 6 speed box is PRQ, they are drop in replacements.

I originally had 16" wheels and I went from Bridgestone Turanza's to Avon ZV7s and it was a night and day difference. Huge increase in comfort too. Quite sticky too, probably owing to their softer compound. Then i changed to 17" wheels which came with Dunlop SP Sport Maxx's, and by eck they're awful, known to be a noisy tyre though, i'll be switching to a nice set of four Pilot Sport 4's (not 4S, they don't do them in this size) next month so should be better than these.

Perhaps! Surprised economy hasn't suffered with it being out that badly

For the price and how long they usually last anyway, i don't think it matters too much whichever you get. There's not a great deal you can do wrong with simple linkages. More load bearing functional parts though i'd recommend Skoda, though the OEM wheel bearings are FAG parts so just grab those if you're going for that.

If it's one of the dodgey ones, it'll have failed by now or will have been replaced. The issue was with the screws backing out which would eventually jam the camshaft and total the engine completely. Give a skoda dealership a ring and ask them about it

The camshaft adjusters were only an issue on the really early EA211 1.2TSIs, only a few of the late 2014 early 2015 plate Fabias got the old revision. Mines a mid 2015 and has the revised camshaft adjuster. The HPFP noise is quite noticeable but as said by others, unfortunately it is just normal and something have to live with. The injectors are quite noisy in these engines too.

To be honest, I don't wanna give the clutch a beating, and with the state of the roads right now (salty and damp and muddy round here) it struggles for grip even in 2nd gear so it's hard to get anything decent. An intake upgrade does make the factory blow off sound much nicer. Don't bother with the forge blow off thing i think it sounds cheap and awful. Get the MST turbo elbow (MST-VW-MK708) and the MST intake kit (MST-VW-MK706L) Together they replace all the pipework from the filter to the turbo. There's no gains to be had by doing anything with the forge dump valve rubbish. There's no issue at all with cold starts or anything. Starts up and idles just like standard, you don't notice any difference until you boot it and it throws you back lol.

For the price of them, honestly you may as well do them, easily doable yourself. For the tie rods mark on the threads where the originals were before you remove them so you can at least get them in the right ballpark for when you take it for the alignment.

My hybrid setup was £1950 in total. From personal experience with all the hassle that the 1.4 turbo gave me, i'd say to just save up and go for the hybrid which will give you 180bhp and 206ftlb/280nm on a completely stock car. If you want more still then you can change out rods and hpfp and exhaust etc to give you maybe 220-230bhp and 320+nm torque. The rods limit the torque, and the exhaust and hpfp limit the power. The 1.4 turbo unfortunately presented a lot of issues when attempting to map it in. The wastegate behaves differently, the spool characteristics are different, and ultimately it came down to it only being able to safely push 1.3-1.2 bar boost till redline without it surging. 1.2-1.3bar gives stage 1 torque, but it's able to hold it to redline rather than dropping off, you'll get around 160bhp and 230nm ish from that. Trying to push more boost would result in it surging to 1.6-1.7 bar and upwards, it'd either hit boost cut, or fuelling couldn't keep up and it'd cut fuel to prevent being damagingly lean. Either way a stock 1.4 turbo isn't built for that kind of boost so 1.2-1.3 bar boost is the most you'd safely want to push with it, the hybrid is built for 1.7 bar boost so it's perfectly happy running 1.5 bar all day long. If you're already stage 1 then it's not worth going to the 1.4 turbo in my opinion, you only gain a bit of top end, which is nice but for the cost of having it installed and mapped again, not really worth. The hybrid? Yeah, definitely worth it, night and day difference. With a more accurate app, from rolling in 2nd gear, managed a 30-60mph in just 3.42 seconds. The 1.4 turbo barely scraped 4 seconds flat. I'd recommend getting at least a sports cat exhaust done (sports or decat will provide same gains, may aswell go for the legal option lol) before the hybrid though, you'll get potentially around 190bhp with that (hpfp for 205-210, then rods to allow increasing torque past 280nm to 320+nm and get perhaps 220-230bhp) I'd highly suggest a brake upgrade though, slowing down from 140mph is not something to be taken likely 😶

I discovered often the throttle body likes to cycle and check itself on first starting up and also when turning off. That usually makes a fairly high pitched noise. The aircon flaps (if you have the higher spec automatic one) will also move about and make a little noise too.

It would only make a smell in the cabin if it's either leaking or you're sat still with a slight backwind. Even std exhaust gives a slight smell when sat defrosting if there's a slight backwind bringing the fumes to the front. Tony Banks will do a sports cat exhaust for 439 i believe. As long as it's a decent 200 cell cat and you warm it up beforehand it should pass mot fine. Cheap sports cats often struggle. Milteks can struggle unless gotten red hot on smaller engines as they don't get them hot enough. What mistake people often make with sports cats is having it way oversized. So long as the cat can handle the flow it doesn't matter how large or small it is it won't cause a restriction. But having a large one means a lot more surface area for the slower moving cooler gasses to heat up. Smaller downpipe and cat keeps the gasses moving quickly and hotter so they'll get the cat nice and hot to work properly.

The smaller 1.4 turbo is very similar to the 1.2 turbo and is easier to map in. The torque just depends how much boost you give it, normally to keep the smaller turbos in a safe zone they're kept about 1.2-1.3 bar and make about 230-240nm with std exhaust, 280nm needs about 1.5 bar but a downpipe will help things somewhat as you can have more torque with the same boost and a bit more power. So that's actually about normal i'd say.

I would go for the JBS one, it's designed for this engine and it's proven to work very well with it. The turbo itself is capable of far more than the 181bhp it made on mine with standard exhaust. It can probably push 220-230 ish, but youll need extensive work doing to reach that. The JBS hybrid is absolutely insane, it comes in around 1900rpm and holds that torque through till 5000rpm (where the exhaust restricts it), that's a very strong very flat very wide powerband for a 1.2! Lag is noticeable and at first it might take a little while to get used to controlling it (half throttle is still capable of breaking traction in 2nd if it's a bit damp out). The RTMG is unproven on the 1.2 engine, it's "designed" for the 1.4 engine and i would say it should stay that way, JBS told me of someone with one that was really struggling to make any boost because the turbo's way oversized that the 1.2 engine just doesnt make enough exhaust gasses to get it to spool up very well. The rough limits of the main components are as follows; Exhaust: 180bhp HPFP: 190bhp Conrods: 205ft/lb (~210bhp) Even with everything standard it's at the torque limit of the rods until 5000rpm, so the exhaust and hpfp upgrades will only improve the top end from 5000rpm up. To increase torque anywhere else you need to be looking at rods. Conrods would allow you to push more torque (and as such, more power) across the entire rpm range, you'll be limited part by turbo and part by cam/head/valves by that point, if youre doing conrods you may aswell go ahead with cam, head, and valve mods which would get you more torque and as such more power from the same boost across the entire rpm range again but will only help if you're really pushing it to the limits, and that kind of stuff may potentially affect day to day drivability.

The pistons should be fine as is, the rods definitely need upgrading. The last thing being youll need an upgrade to the hpfp for more than about 190bhp

Yours hit 336nm, that's well beyond what's considered safe for the stock rods (280nm ish), that's why yours reaches peak power earlier than the hybrid. You can't be running only 1.4 bar with that torque, that's peaking to more like 1.7bar like my 1.4 turbo was when it hit 190+ in testing. The hybrid reaches that 280nm peak torque much earlier than the graph suggests, from about 1900rpm, it holds 280nm through till 5000rpm where the exhaust cant get rid of the gasses fast enough and backpressure becomes a problem. The hybrid turbo is capable of considerably more power than what mine made. The dyno spins up fast enough that the turbo hasn't had time to spool up yet. The exhaust is a restriction beyond 180bhp, you can make that 180bhp earlier by pushing more at low rpms like yours, or less peak but continuing to high rpms like mine. But you'll struggle to make more than 180bhp due to the exhaust. Airflow basically = power. A sports cat or decat will basically remove the exhaust restriction but now a new restriction comes into play, how much fuel you can get into the engine, the high pressure fuel pump can only flow enough for about 190bhp tops before rail pressure drops too far. I'd recommend getting your tuner to bring the torque back down to a safer level of around 280nm (206ftlbs), you'll most likely not hit that same peak hp but your engine will be much happier for it. The design of the 1.4 turbos housings make it difficult to maintain a consistent boost on the 1.2 engine, it's designed around how much exhaust flow the 1.4 engine makes and what powerband they wanted the 1.4 engine to have, the 1.2 makes less exhaust gasses from its smaller displacement so it needs more engine rpms before the turbo can start to make any considerable boost. It's also limited in top end because the turbine is designed around low down responsiveness and not top end flow. The fluctuation you get is the turbo being the restriction rather than the exhaust, you get too much backpressure and the ecu pulls timing to prevent knock, power drops off and the restriction goes then it tries again.. The casings of the hybrid are modified 1.2 casings machined smooth for better flow, spool, and to fit the core which itself is a modified 1.4 turbo core, with the exhaust turbine opened up for more top end and a couple other undisclosed modifications. The result is a turbo which comes in between the 1.2 and 1.4 turbo, lag is kind of in between but closer to the 1.4 turbo, but top end is hugely improved, way more than was expected, JBS were very surprised themselves by how wide the power band is. The unit as a whole is also very predictable in boost characteristics with zero boost fluctuation at all. They estimated it to be capable of 190-200bhp but its likely it can make 220-230 if you had the money

From 5000+ the boost on mine drops slowly from 1.5 to around 1.2 ish, that's the exhaust restriction. A new issue comes when you put a sports cat or decat on it, and that's the high pressure fuel pump, which is starting to run out a little already at 180bhp, might be able to eek a little more out of it but more than 190 you will need a hpfp upgrade, which jbs are working on. Speaking to jbs they believe the 1.4 turbo should only really be able to safely make 160-170bhp when tuned in properly. Also, when i test drove mine at "180bhp" with the 1.4 turbo, it was just nothing like the 180bhp of the hybrid, the hybrid is so solid with power delivery, not even the slightest fluctuation from 1900 till 6000 rpm, yep, it has full torque from that low down, it goes like a deisel haha

Yes, my intake and exhaust are completely stock. There was no further tweaking after that point though 280nm/200ftlbs is as far as you want to go on stock rods, that's about 1.5 bar, the exhaust only became an issue beyone 5k, where the 1.4 turbo would be struggling anyway, do i dont think the exhaust will give you much more, except possibly let the turbo surge too high. I'd probably say to leave it at somewhere like jbs for a couple days so they can properly develop a map for it.

I picked it up yesterday in fact. Ludicrous is the word for it. Reached 140mph and was still climbing albeit slowly by that point, 2nd and 3rd are just silly fast. Think the 1.4 turbo is fast? This effer just pulls, and pulls, right to and beyond redline.. it's like nothing i've driven before, when that lil turbo kicks in hold on tight! Overtaking is easy as pi$$ now, BMW 118i was upset that i came up behind him quickly doing 60 in a 60, he was doing 45, and at the next straight bit of road he planted it, only to get left behind by a wee 1.2tsi fabia 😂😂