Alasdair1

Meant to add check the wiring from the pressure sensor back for continuity. It could be a broken wire/bad connection. Alasdair

Might be the oil pump or perhaps oil pick up is partly blocked. Did it get the correct oil when last serviced? It may be that its too thick when cold or if the pickup is partly blocked not enough is getting through when cold . It might be worth getting oil pressure checked with a proper pressure guage. Alasdair

Make sure the strip fuses are intact. They can suffer from hairline cracks that are impossible to see but fall in two when removed. If the fuses are all ok and making good contact then I would get it scanned. Alasdair

I usually buy two as well especially if the old ones have been on car for a while. Have had a couple of cars that didnt quite sit level due to one spring replacement as older one I assume being weaker/different make. I generally change any suspension/steering items in pairs especially front. Alasdair

All the new safety features worry me as more to go wrong. Maybe its a self test? Alasdair

Hopefully it was a good outcome and its sorted. Alasdair

Wonder if you have an airlock somewhere after changing the stat. Some require vcds or a vaccum fill to bleed properly. Not sure on your CBZB engine. Try and squeeze top rad hose again and again and look for bubbles in coolant tank or see if it drops. Do the heaters work in car? Alasdair

I wouldnt be happy either. It could have been the coating but last thing you want is a burning smell anywhere near a car especially in it. Glad you got it sorted Alasdair

Get it to your mechanic and get him to scan with decent scanner quick. Glad you got it started and I hope it stays that way. Alasdair

If the car is causing no problems and passes MOT no bother I would definitely keep it and get timing belt checked/replaced including water pump plus coolant change. Apart from that a general service. ie all filters plus oil is probably all it needs. As its a DSG then maybe contact a specialist and ask for a quote for oil change and check up. I tend to go along the lines if it isnt broken dont fix it. Alasdair

P0237 can be caused by a failed or failing MAP sensor/turbo pressure sensor but it may also be a wiring fault/short/bad earth. check that its plugged in and making good contact/no dirt or corosion plus check for broken wires. Its normally on the intake manifold. May look like this There is very probably a part number on it for ordering a new one. Sorry no idea how to check if its good or bad. It can cause poor starting when cold and can also put EML on if car starts Alasdair

Not sure on that engine but normally inline with air intake from airfilter to throttle body. Had an old volvo with failed MAF and had excatly same symptoms. On mine it started roughly but stalled if I went over 1000rpm. I would get it scanned before replacing anything but you could check wiring to MAF and coolant temp sensor etc.

Think you will have to get it scanned for codes. It could be a bad coolant temp sensor Maf or many other things. Can your mechanic come out and perhaps scan it? Alasdair

Try we buy any car/autotrader etc and see what they say. Was looking at some the otherday on autotrader for my son and anything between 3.5K and 8.5k depending on trim age mileage etc. You could always ask dealer what the trade in would be to get a base price.

That explains why all my skodas have brake pr codes missing. Alasdair

Might be worth checking wiring continuity/connectors from camshaft sensor backwards in case wiring is failing or broken/not making good contact. You could do the same for the crank sensor. Think from memory its hidden behind oil filter area. Alasdair

Meant to add make sure slider pins are moving freely and use silicone grease on them. I had to clean mine as the previous owner had used copper grease which had dried out and they were seizing plus copper grease is bad for the rubber gators. Alasdair

I use https://brakesint.co.uk/ They have excellent info and pictures for you to compare. I then order them from https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/ as they are usually a lot cheaper. By the looks of the old pad its from a caliper without the external spring so should have 280mm discs. Still measure the old ones as well. There may be a PR code in boot sticker that will keep you right as well Alasdair

Could be just the protective coating heating up hence the bakelite smell or its a poor copy. Any burning bakelite smell is not good but hopefully will disapear. The OEM one is a fair price compared to aftermarket. Not sure what make you got but think Febi do one Febi 34370 OEM 6Q0 959 263 Check the old one for oem part number Alasdair

Reckon its been a replacement lens from as LHD vehicle unless its an optional extra. If you have one on the left and a fog light on right you should be ok. Chances are if its wired in you would probably get a bulb warning light unless car has been told there are two. Alasdair

I dont have vcds but when I did mine 1.9tdibxe I had to loosen top pulley/camshaft bolts and adjust slightly to align locking pins after turning engine over by hand once belt was fitted. When I fitted the belt they all ligned up but after a complete rotation were just slightly out. Didnt have to move it much but I believe its fairly critical. Alasdair

I thought they only had one on the left with fog on the right. Maybe someone has fitted a new rear light from a rhd car from autodoc etc. Are there actual wires going to the reverse bulb? Alasdair

It may be the throttle body as previous. I would get it properly calibrated with vcds to rule it out. There may well be someone on here local to you with it that could give the car a proper scan and calibrate it for you. If not then you may have to source a VAG specialist garage or at lease one that knows how to and get them to scan it. It may pinpoint a prroblem that your scanner is missing. Alasdair

Read a post regarding TCM wiring. The plug to gearbox was dirty with oil/water ingress causing no comms. Check its clean and making good contact etc. Alasdair

On my old Seat it was the same. I used a little heat on the end of the tube as I think they may have been originally glued in. It came out eventually. Careful not to pull tube out while your at it. One side was ok but the other solid. Alasdair