Alasdair1

Had a quick google and 00022 is coming up as something different. Its a problem with camshaft sensor/wiring/timing/stretched timing chain if fitted which would explain EML. Might be worth getting it scanned with VCDS or a different scanner to make sure. I may be wrong but another scan with a different scanner wouldnt do any harm. Alasdair

It could be a clogged EGR valve but on my 1.9tdibxe there is an EGR cooler that has a small plastic valve that was sticking that caused same code and EML on. Not so easy to get to though. Looks like this Not sure on your engine. EGR valve should come off complete. I cleaned mine by soaking in kerosene, Scrubbed with old toothbrush and then brake cleaner. If you have a vaccum guage check the valve is holding vaccum as well and check any vaccum pipes for damage. Alasdair

Cant see it being an MOT failure unless things have changed. My old Merc vans gears were awful. I was the only one who could find any of them. They were so worn that you had to watch not smack your knuckles off dash when changing but kept passing MOT. Same here still havent had a look but sons now got used to it too. Alasdair

Could be a bad earth somewhere. Check the continuity of the thin wire that I think goes from neg battery terminal to ECU. It may be broken internally. Also check the thin wire that goes to alternator as well. I assume your battery is reading at least 12.5 volts with engine off and check any earths that you can find. Found this for the MK1 earth locations there may be more? behind battery, on strut tower below battery, on side member under centre console, in front of gearstick at base of LH 'C' pillar

I had problems on my sons Fabia with strip fuses near battery. There were two that had hairline invisible cracks that when warm broke contact. Not sure on the Octavia or if they would stop car but worth a look. If VCDS isnt finding any codes its an odd one and may be electrical in some way. It doesnt have an aftermarket alarm/imobilser?

Maybe as said drawing in air somewhere or blocked filter/fuel line. Alasdair

When you say pump is still running I assume its the intank lift pump. It may be running but not pumping once it warms up or down on pressure/drawing in air Alasdair

Does the door open light come on when opening each door. It might be a failed door switch. My old Seat used to try and lock doors continuosly when driving and it was a problem with the circuit board in drivers door lock. Alasdair

Not sure on the Octavia but the fabia has a connection underneath near the bottom of screen wash bottle that connects to pump. From memory its accessible from underneath but may require engine under tray or plastic wheel arch removal. Alasdair

Might be the fuel pump relay thats failing when warm. Have you tried swapping for a known good one. Alasdair

Another fairly cheap sensor is the coolant temp sensor. If its failing then it may cause similar problems although in my case the car wouldnt start when cold. Alasdair

Sounds like something is getting hot and failing. It might be the camshaft sensor. I have read that they can cause problems without causing fault codes. You could also try without fuel cap in case the tank venting system is blocked and causing a vaccum in the fuel line. Happend to me on my old fiat van as the previous owner had put on non vented fuel cap. Alasdair

I think they prize apart but you have to be careful of springs/plastic etc. You could try wd40 as well but if its not repairable then perhaps one from a vehicle dismantler. https://rrr.lt/en/search?q=5J6857496&exact=1 They send to sweden but you may be able to source one locally cheaper.

You could try a hoover to see if it will dislodge/suck up whats in there or compressed air sometimes works.

If you have had an earth repair I would start there. It may be a loose connection or the wire has broken again plus 40amp is a huge fuse for brake lights are you sure its the right one. They are normally 10-15amp?

Did you get it sorted? Alasdair

As far as I know three wires is a hall effect and should be 5v but as previously said I may be wrong. Alasdair

Good luck. The fact that you tried a different ecu hopefullty it might be its as simple as a broken/damaged wire/connection or perhaps both sensors are bad. How many wires does your crank sensor have? Alasdair

I had it in my head that its 5V but may be wrong. It might be a bad connection or damaged wire from sensor or ecu is supplying wrong voltage. I'm sure someone on here will correct me if I'm wrong. Alasdair

Its a bit of a long shot but check battery as well. If its low then it might not be cranking fast enough. Alasdair

If its cranking and no codes and no tacho movement then it may be a bad connection/cable to crank sensor or perhaps either the crank or cam sensor you replaced is faulty. Check wiring for continuity and connection from the crank sensor first as I have read they can fail/wiring probs and not create code. Alasdair

Does the gearstick actually move or is it solid. If it moves check the cables that go to gear selector on Gbox are still attached etc. Alasdair

I got a cheap one off ebay for my sons fabia and so far so good. Problem with most garages is they just get it from the local motorfactors or dealers and dont have time to shop around. On his it was rivetted on so I had to source special rivets plus buy a bigger rivet gun and drill out old ones. Not sure on the octavia. Not too bad a job on the fabia once I got the old one off as the cables had wrapped themselved around everything. £350 is high but probably about right when you take labour and VAT into the equation. Alasdair

The flood may be a coincidence. Check that the plastic gear selector on top of Gbox isnt seized. Happened on my old Seat and couldnt move gearstick to select gears.

Check fuses in engine bay for blown/looseness and corosion. There are strip fuses in my sons that have failed but the hairline crack is so fine almost impossible to see. Not sure if there is an ECU relay as well Alasdair