Alasdair1

If its any help had a look at older skoda and think Felicia is 195mm. Alasdair

Hope you get it fixed soon. Folks had a 1.9tdi fabia Mk1 (not VRS) but it shifted when you wanted it. I ended up getting it when they stopped driving. Always put a smile on my face when it left the boy racers standing. Probably one of the most fun cars I have driven plus used to get 60mpg on average. A lot better than my 1.6tdi octavia. Good luck Alasdair

Shards of metal are never good. Think the only place they could come from is turbo. If it is then you will have to clean everything up including intercooler before replacing. Then I would do an oil/filter change and then another at say 150/200 miles in case theres anything that could damage new turbo left in system. Normally when turbo goes theres loads of smoke unless its the turbo veins that have disentegrated and seals are still fairly intact. Had a quick look online and the turbo seems to be around £200 new which is fairly reasonable. Neighbour have a people carrier and their turbo was just under £1000 plus fitting and that was at a very reasonable garage. Alasdair

It may be a fuel pump problem either failing or not priming system properly or it may have a check valve thats leaking allowing fuel to return to tank when car is not running. Can you hear the in tank pump running when ignition is on? It should run for a few secs until system is primed when ignition is turned on. Sorry dont know how to translate to French Alasdair

Not sure how easy it will be to access but if you can remove turbo inlet pipe and see if the turbo is actually turning. It should spin freely by using fingers. If its seized or blocked somehow it might explain the car starts and idles but dies on revs. Alasdair.

Hope its something simple thats been missed. Alasdair

As far as I know exhaust goes from manifold to turbo then cat and into exhaust system/box. On my BXE theres an egr cooler that takes some to egr valve. The PCV valve is on the air intake side. Just wondering if it starts with the air intake pipe off the PCV it might be lack of air or perhaps a blocked/failed cat. Check that your airfilter is ok and hasnt clogged or collapsed. Alasdair

Try thumping door card near where the lock is and at the same time try to unlock either with fob or key. It could be a stuck deadlock or bad switch. I did read on here its possible to remove door card with door locked but easier if seat is removed. If it does open dont lock it again until you find out why. Alasdair

I would change cam sensor first and see if the MAF sensor calms down before replacing both. Alasdair

Thats not right at all. Maybe a front flexi would do but may be a bit long. I would hope either a refund or decent discount for all your troubles. Maybe mention to them that your on here an there are a lot of skoda owners who see this post. I to am getting a bit fed up having to adjust aftermarket parts to fit. Surely it cant be that difficult to copy something. I wouldnt be bending anything as it could weaken any weld. Maybe the garage could heat it with oxi torch and bend it. Would need repainting after. Alasdair

I find theres always a bit of oil in the pipes but if its high up it may be that theres a fair amount in intercooler. Alasdair

Dont suppose its an auto?

Maybe a failing clock spring as it happens at full lock. It could also be loose alternator belt as power steering will be at max current at full lock. If it was working before service I would take it back and get them to check they have replaced everything properly

Not sure but there maybe a relay involved with starting. If its failing it would explain the one click. Not sure if its in engine compartment or under dash. Think its mared 449 but not 100% Alasdair

While your at it check the intercooler isnt full of oil or clogged. Alasdair

Check the other main hoses as well. Had one blow off the intercooler on mine. Car started but wouldnt rev at all. My own fault as I hadnt clipped it back on again properly but it lasted a month before coming free.

Think the BCM and ECU are closely linked and can cause no start if its not connected properly. Alasdair

Reckon as said you should scan it for codes. Got to be something thats caused it. Alasdair

No idea if wire is related. I asked if its been cut and not broken in case its come off something but if it looks cut I doubt its come off anything. With the drivers footwell soaking wondering if its corosion/water in the BCM/connection. Think its in that area. Another point would be whats the condition of battery. Low volts can often cause problems.

Does the wire with the white tape look as though its been cut? Alasdair

Might be power steering fluid is past it or low and has too much moisture in it. Old volvo of mine used to squeel when starting when cold and once warmed up was ok. i changed fluid which was well past it and problem stopped. Still worth getting it scanned to see if its stored any codes. Could be as simple as a low battery.

Could be a stuck EGR valve fully open but reckon best to get it scanned to hopefully pinpoint something. You could look for days and not find out whats causing it. Alasdair

Might be worth scanning it for codes. If its an injector it should have a stored code.

Hopefully its as simple as a cam sensor etc. Think you can check chain for stretch with VCDS. A bit above my comfort zone but read its engine measuring block 93 and should read above -5 anything below ie -6 etc would point to stretched chain. Thats with car upto operating temp. Alasdair

If its a timing issue I would be careful how much you drive it until sure. Hope the other scanner picks up something less serious. Alasdair