Alasdair1

Maybe go softly and tell the mechanic that you think the timing is slightly out due to the fault code and info from members here and you would like them to recheck it rather than tell him he got it wrong. Last thing you want is to annoy a mechanic/garage etc and have them working on your car. If he gets stroppy then you can take the complaint up a level or two. Good luck and hopefully a re time will cure the problem. Alasdair

Check your owners manual if you have one just in case but I reckon its a straight swap. You may have to resync keys for remote locking and reset auto windows by holding down/up button for 10 secs at fully close and same at fully open. You will also get warning symbols like steering/ASR/ABS etc but they should disapear once its driven and gone full lock both ways. Its always the way when you get a cold spell. Alasdair

Try Tayna batteries online. There pretty good with fast delivery and reasonable prices. Just replacing It depends on if you have stop/start etc. Some cars will need new battery coded. On my Mk1 fabia and both MK2 octavia I just replace as they dont have stop/start. I have Yuasa,Lucas,Bosch and an old Halfords one in my cars and so far no problems. They are all around 5 years old now. Alasdair

I get a random bolt coming loose although if its torqued properly shouldnt but it happens. Bolts missing on the otherhand is not acceptable at all. Far to many garages miss them out or dont torque properly. Years ago I had a clutch problem that a small so called good garage fixed for me. Next time I was in my preferred garage now retired they pointed out that only the bottom bolts on the bellhousing were tight but the others were loose with two missing plus a few cables etc had not been reclipped securely. Even good garages can have poor mechanics. Hope you get it sorted. Alasdair

It may be that you will have to leave it and live with it at moment. If its the slave/master then at some point will fail completely or it will get progressively worse to the point its diagnosible. Replacing master is fairly straight forward but difficult to get to. Depending on Gbox the slave may be internal so would require Gbox out again. If its like my sons MK1 its removable from outside bell housing although the rod that operates clutch is internal. Some are fully internal (very stupid design) If the garage who replaced the clutch fitted a new one as a matter of course then I would see about replacing Master if it gets worse. Next service get them to check it out. I would take car out with the mechanic and show them the problem. Get them to check Gbox oil level/quality as well. Alasdair

Will do but it will be a while before I get round to it as hes using car every day. Had a quick loo and it seems a bit tricky so will need some time Alasdair

As said probably ice thats making it stick. Either wait for warmer weather or get the hairdrier out and warm it up/dry it out. My octavia wouldnt open this morning as the rubber seals had frozen to doors. Waiting for sun to hit it so I can get in. Joys of winter motoring! Alasdair

Most probably the plastic under gearstick. I got a repair kit for my sons MK1 off Amazon for £17-00 Part number 6Q0711699. Havent fitted it yet so cant tell you how tricky it is and hopefully its correct for his car. His return spring has broken so I just bought the complete kit. Alasdair

I know what you mean. I do all my own if I can. Used to have an excellent old school garage but Robert retired a couple of years ago. With the two mechanics plus his son and himself they had over 100 years of experience added together. He was finding that modern cars were requiring more and more expensive diagnostic euipment and tools. Shame its gone but I understand why. Maybe someone on here could reccomend a decent one in your area. Alasdair

I agree unless its badly worn or damaged but if its just the edge I cant see it affecting timing. Reckon your suspicion is correct. It shouldnt be too big a job to remove covers and check. Make sure the garage uses the correct tool for the 2.0tdi Alasdair

If its the top timing cog then it looks like this. You can see the elongated holes that alow for adjustment. I came up with part number 03L 109 111 but you would have to double check. There are a few on ebay for £15-£20 or new from skodaparts.com genuine for £50 but I cant see it affecting timing unless its needing adjustent or possibly moved slightly. Not sure where the 4k bill comes from unless hes completely dismantling engine and rebuilding. Hope its an easy fix Alasdair

If theres a spare ABS sensor in car its a good place to start. Someone on here had problems with ABS and it was the ring in the bearing that had failed. As previously said jac up car and spin wheels to make sure theres a good signal coming from each sensor. Check the ABS fuse as well. Normally if it blows it pings up a warning but not always. Check that your brake fluid is full as well. Alasdair

If the pedal is dropping when under pressure it may be the fluid passing seals but not leaking on master/slave. . On mine 58 plate the slave is external but the rod that activates clutch is internal with rubber gaitor so any leaks end up in bell housing. It can be replaced without Gbox removal. My slave looks like this Check for leaks at master and if none might be worth removing slave and replace anyway. A replacement for master was around £40 and the slave was around £20 so not the end of the world and worth trying. Its only two bolts and a push clip join.

Sounds like either master or slave failing and letting fluid past seals. Had same on my 1.9tdi. Random clutch to floor and wouldnt come back until I lifted pedal with foot. Only did it once in a blue moon and no fluid loss then one day clutch to floor and that was it. External seals had gone on master but couldnt see any leaks until it got winched onto truck and fluid drained out of engine under tray. Check the fluid level. If its ok then maybe a clutch bleed in case its drawing in air but it does sound like a master/slave problem. I took master off put part number into Amazon and got a new sachs one £42-00 about half the price I could get one locally. Not the easiest thing to get to. If your fitting it yourself there is a rubber grommet seal that normally sticks in old one that needs to be swapped over or replaced. Its easy to miss Alasdair

On my 1.9tdi it was the same. You had to loosen pulley slightly to get timing just spot on. When I used the locking tools and then rotated engine once belt was fitted it was just slightly out after a complete turn and I couldnt get locking pin back in again without loosening pulley. It only moved about 1mm but that was enough to line everything up. If it was a sensor then I am sure a code would have been stored. Not sure re driving but its probably only slightly out so may be ok. Personally I wouldnt if possible until you get it checked in case its the tensioner/belt thats been wrongly fitted. Alasdair

It may be that the oil is low or getting past it and has become too thin allowing a bit of chatter in the Box. Worth checking oil level anyway and maybe change it next service. Not sure what the gearbox oil change interval is if there is one. Alasdair

Many thanks. Going for the larger one as it will fit the battery tray. Reckon he could do with the extra power. Alasdair

Folks old mk1 fabia was the same. Alarm would go off randomly probably due to failing siren battery. My local garage disabled it but not sure how. With yours being newer may need VCDS to disable it. You could try removing fuse for alarm but knowing skoda it probably is connected to other systems. Read on here that its fuse 54 15amp but it may be different on yours. Alasdair

Could be a worn clutch release bearing although I would have thought it would be there all the time. Might be worth getting oil level in Gbox checked if its possible on your Gear box. Alasdair

I think its the switch on the drivers door pillar below where seatbelt is. It disables the interior sensors so you can leave a dog etc in car. Alasdair

Check that when the clutch was replaced they fitted a new slave cylinder. I generally fit a new one as if it goes then its back to square one re clutch. Just wondering if the seals are failing and its not operating clutch fully. (same can happen with master when they allow fluid past seals. You could also try double declutch ie in 1st clutch down then into neutral then clutch up then clutch down and into 2nd. May have to blip throttle. If the gears drop into place then it may be 1st/2nd syncro going in Gbox.

If you keep getting P3138 I think its related to flaps in air intake/throttle body. They could be sticking or perhap failing or wiring fault. It may be the reason for the P0642 as I think its on the same circuit. Might be worth cleaning throttle body in case its carbon up. Try and unplug throttle body and remove P0642 and see if it comes back again. Alasdair

Mine on my octavia is on the label in the boot near the spare wheel. Sometimes theres one stuck in the hand book for the car as well but in my Seat the paint code is missing from the label as is my sons fabia. Saying that there are a few others missing in my Octavia like brakes etc. Have always wondered why they bother with PR codes if they dont put all of them on the sticker. Alasdair

Had exactly the same with Michelin on my Seat altea. 80% tread but two had deformed and caused a major wobble felt through your seat plus signs of cracking between tread. No bulges but had an almost twist in the tyre. Tyre guy said he sees it a lot with Michelin considering there not the cheapest. They had never been repaired and were on the rear with no kerb damage etc. We agreed that best course of action was to dump them and fit 4 new as if two had gone the other two wouldnt be long. Last thing you need is a blow out. Made me look at my trailer tyres. 90% tread but loads of cracking as well. It was an expensive week. Alasdair

I find as well that cheaper tyres seem to lose their traction after about a year even with good tread depth. Rubber if it is actually rubber goes hard before tyres even half worn. They are also prone to cracking etc. Have a set of old school dunlop on an old car. They must be at least 20 years old and no visible cracking and they still hold air. Alasdair