T07

I had the clutch bled to double check it wasn’t air in the system. Don’t think it made matters any worse, just proved that the slave was on the way out as made no difference

I’ve had mats from super Skoda. There’s a red trimmed Vrs version. Not sure if still available http://www.kopacek.com/

The recommended time interval for timing belt and water pump is 5 years

There’s the thickness values. Can measure with a set of vernier callipers pretty crudely by using a couple of nuts and zeroing it to get over the lip at the edge of the disc.

Should be vw507.

Pretty sure it turns itself back on over a certain speed

Try turning off traction control

Take the engine cover off and you can see it. Either needs a deep socket or spanner to remove. Think the spanner was easier

It’s the sensor with the green mark on it that allows you to see the charge cooler

I’d try and get the official triple spline tool that’s ball ended for the manifold bolts. Lots of funny angles so it was difficult for some. Would also recommend a good mix of extension bars for your socket set. I found the workshop manual not very logical and jumps about the steps a bit, so ended up just disconnecting pipes that I knew would have to come out of the way. Make sure you have a means of priming the fuel system as there’s a fuel line disconnected. lots of rags too for disconnecting hoses and a set of hose clamp pliers is definitely needed. Finally, it will come out with a bit of wiggling, was much easier putting the new one in!

https://www.hypermiler.co.uk/skoda/skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-workshop-service-maintenance-repair-manuals-downloads-inc-vrs-free

Ye it’s just a mix of oil and water. There’s a tiny bit of oil misting in the throttle body. No bandsaw I’m afraid. It was leaking from numerous spots when pressurised under water. Who knows how far into the cooler they were coming from. Wasn’t just the one point there were bubbles coming from.

Well that was a pig. Lots to disconnect. The service manual is useful but was easier just to start stripping things that were in the way in the end. Lots of gunk in the charge cooler. Wonder are these not getting much fresh coolant flowing through them as they are on a separate loop so corroding sooner? Might also be the case that when coolants being flushed they aren’t flushing this circuit? Here’s hoping I get a few more miles out of this one!

The numbers you quote are the temperature rather than brightness. It defines how yellow or blue the bulb is I think. Some Googling will throw up more detail

Are you getting much steam out the back? Worth a look at this if not https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/coolant-blown-out-from-expansion-bottle.483783/

Just hoping the new charge cooler solves it or I’ll be resorting to bunging some k seal in there

Suppose it depends how much the charge cooler is leaking? I’m getting through about a litre or so of coolant every 1000-1500miles. So if there was k seal in the mix then a fair bit would make it to the charge cooler

DDENDOCAM Wireless Endoscope USB Borescope Inspection Camera 1200P HD WiFi Snake Camera for Android/IOS iPhone/Windows/Mac/Tablet/PC (Black, 2M) https://amzn.eu/d/6pH7bfz got the above. Seems to be exact same as the draper version. Worked perfect

Thanks for that. Can’t be much worse. Would have expected it to last more than 120k miles. a motor factors I contacted did say they could see the Valeo version on their system but that they couldn’t order it as they were all allocated to dealers. It was around £300+ vat on their system

So by the looks of it the AB version has an opening on the right hand side that on the Q version isn’t the whole through the casting. Don’t know what the difference is on the engine itself

dark side were very helpful when I was in touch, but they couldn’t be certain that the one they stocked would fit. Seems to be a couple of different versions around which are all slightly different. Have ordered a second hand part so will try and pressure test it when it arrives and fingers crossed it’ll last another few miles!

Unfortunately I don’t think so. The version ending L seems to be slightly different around where the Egr valve is than the version ending Q. Think I’ll have to take a punt on one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255167640661?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=8e4WzG6sSw-&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=KpJ5SJsHTG6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Yep it was a typo, was actually AH. Any idea where the aj part comes from? Can’t find much info on it but the below eBay description seems to say it’s compatible. Waiting on a response from the seller. NEW Genuine Intercooler Audi Seat Skoda VW 1.6 2.0 TDI 04L129766AJ, AK

Was trying to source newish but looking like that might have to do. Anyone aware of a weakness in the earlier versions that was rectified? Or was it just one of those things to go. Done about 120k miles

Ahh not ideal then. Can find a few that don’t match the codes on skodaparts. Different modification letter so not worth the chance. Thanks