J.R.

I have a cut off air chisel bit which I use to shock all around the area in conjunction with a diesel acetone mix, it has worked most times so far, if you can get a tiny bit of movement without the plastic shearing which is very hard to feel, then with a lot of patience and back and forth they can usually be removed intact. On the subject of prevention, I have used various coppa-slip pretenders aerosols plus also spray white grease which I have used on wheel bolts, wheel hub centre locations, the 5 point linkage adjusters on my tractor and without fail the next time they are removed there is no trace of the product or lubrication, they are not seized but you would never know they had been treated. Are they just coloured washable grease? My decades old tin of Comma Copper grease remains visible and lubricating.

You will have to explain that for me as I have no idea what you are talking about.

DVSA are responsable for MOT testing, its a government department. I called the author a blogger because of the web address: Mattersoftesting.blog.gov.uk

An MOT tester passing a vehicle which has the DPF removed is not harming the environment, he may be aiding and abetting the owner to do so but that probably is not an offence, as for fraud the DVSA blogger should check his beliefs before making such a statement. dishonestly making a false representation (to a person, or to any system or device) with a view to gain or with intent to cause loss or expose to a risk of loss

The OP should have the fault codes checked full stop. A non secured filler cap if it were going to cause a 0442 error would show up as soon as the engine was started and not while running after half a tank, however if he has overfilled the tank several times then the charcoal filter will be clogged with fuel which could conceivably prevent the tank from drawing in air to replace the volume of fuel used causing a depression in the recovery system, this could plausibly be outside of the operating limits of the pressure sensor if one is fitted.

You will 100% have to bleed it. Its a very easy process, gravity is your friend, push a short lenght of clear tube on the vertical bleed nipple on the bleed block AKA peak torque limiter, open the thumbscrew and watch the bubbles rise, close as soon as it runs clear, takes less than 10 seconds. Others will tell you that it has to be pressure bled, I speak from experience.

I think I'm one of the few people that still use a proper load tester, most garages use the electronic ones so they can repeat the pessimistic and aléatoire readings of X% life remaining to the punter, even I use the electronic one first for convenience. When I was travelling I converted a Nissan Prairie to a campervan in New Zealand, I went to buy a second hand battery and the guy put the exact same old school load tester on it trying to pull the wool over my eyes by reading off the voltmeter scale showing green for good without pressing and holding the shunt switch, he was not happy that I knew how to use it properly and made him engage the load for seconds, the battery was good enough for my needs and I paid a lot less than he was trying to rush me for.

The comedy gets better by the minute, sensors to detect fuel vapour from a incorrectly tightened fuel cap triggering a MIL light 🤣 You do realise that the fuel tank is vented dont you?

Had you unwittingly set the meter to read AC volts and not DC volts?

Emissions. I recall a French diesel hot hatch that I borrowed for a time sensitive dash around 2003, it had a pneumatic damper on the throttle pedal, if you slowly opened the throttle (good for emissions) the resistance was only that of the return spring, the faster you depressed the pedal the more resistance, if you mashed it as I was doing it was like trying to kick wet concrete, at the end of the very short quick drive my shin was aching and the next day it was like I had used a new gym machine. With a DSG you can have an additional lag if for instance you are in an intermediate gear either maintaining speed or gradually accelerating, the gearbox will have predictively pre-selected the next gear, an upchange, if you see an overtake opportunity and mash the throttle the gearbox has to change ratios on the non driven layshaft before engaging and disengaging the two clutches. The same lag will occur in top gear of the road speed and speed the throttle was fully depressed calls for a downchange of more than one ratio.

I know that whether the cap is fitted or not, whether it has grit under the seal, whether it is tightened correctly is not going to create an engine warning dashboard light. I also know that you revel in drawing in new and naive posters to your verbose flights of fantasy.

Profile does not mention 4x4. 2 hours labour is honest charging for the job on a manual, the main dealers probably charge double that plus a diagnostic charge yet if they do it under warranty VAG will pay them for only one hour, thats why most of the time when they begrudgingly accept a warranty claim they will only participate 50% after screwing the customer for the diagnostic charge.

Are you serious?

You can experiment opening and closing the drivers door from the drivers seat with the windows closed and cracked open, you should not experience any pressure change on the Eustachian tubes.

As the engine was still running it sounds simply like an alternator failure or broken drive belt. As it is only 100 miles away I would get someone to drive me there with 2 charged spare batteries (one is likely to suffice) and drive it home keeping the electrical load to an absolute minimum, you will not have as much autonomy as a diesel (I did 150 miles and the car restarted after the ferry and at home the next day) but 2 batteries should do it. Technically you only need one but if the alternator diodes have failed then the battery on the vehicle will be dead, if that is the case then disconnect the alternator before fitting the charged battery, the discharged battery can be charged using jump leads while your pal is following you in case you have to swap again during the journey. Given the cost of fuel for 1 x return 100 mile journey plus 1 x single 100 mile journey and the aggravation you might find the £450 palatable.

I agree. Do you have any problems closing the doors with the windows raised? Assuming that you are not a slammer!

Even more confusing, was the cold water photo taken before or after it was placed and photographed in hot/boiling water? The thermostat should have retracted fairly quickly going from boiling to cold water.

I am struggling to follow your somewhat incoherent postings. The two photographs, are they of the same thermostat or the two different types? Are they first one cold second one hot, warm, or boiling? Both photos look exactly the same and look to me like the fully open position, I think I can see wear marks that witness that. So if one was taken in cold water and the other in hot water then the thermostat is jammed open.

Assuming that is the brake/clutch fluid reservoir, the level sensor is usually built into the cap and if working will create a low fluid warning when the fluid level is significantly higher than the outlet for the clutch master cylinder. "Low on the reservoir is not empty, just the minimum level where everything can work fine." The "minimum" mark on that reservoir is right at the bottom, that is lower than low! Are we sure that really is the brake/clutch fluid reservoir?

Scary to see such negligent basic vehicle checks, OK I know that the low level warning light should come on but that is a serious leak from the braking system which would normally be sensed by the pedal feel. If it were not for the clutch sharing the same bathwater there would soon have been total brake failure, I suppose that in itself is a safety measure. Reservoir looks nothing like those on earlier vehicles and it looks very close to what appears to be a heat source, GPF perhaps? Can someone confirm that it is indeed the brake & clutch fluid reservoir?

Warm water or hot? You called it both. You really need to bring it to the boil to see it open fully, 87° is the regulated temperature at which it will barely be open. What is/are "pecs"? A typo?

It was relatively unobtrusive on my Octavia MK1, drove me mad on the MK2 and is bearable on my current Yeti. I might be having a senior moment and confusing it with the low fuel warning on the MK2, whichever it was it would keep bonging repeatedly at regular intervals, I think on reflection it was the temperature as I always run the tank down to the last couple of litres which can be a couple of weeks after the fuel warning light comes on. I'd like to think that I would always know the changing weather conditions but on the 800km journeys I do the length of the country there can be a 14° change in temperature, on the Climatronic equipped cars it was not noticeable inside, on the poverty spec Yeti I am forever tweaking the heater to feel comfortable as the temperature drops or rises just like in a 60's or 70's car.

In my country if you put a remapped car into the main dealer for servicing or repairs they will delete the software and re-install the original manufacturers one and then charge you a fortune for the privilege, they won't ask you or inform you they just do it, if you refuse to pay they impound the vehicle. That could well be what has happened to your vehicle.

That is implausible, physics say that cannot have happened, either the temperature sender or its wiring connections are is faulty, it can be tested with a multimeter removed from the car with the probe immersed in water being heated in a pan if you want to be 100% sure before buying a new one.

Command the EGR valve using output tests in VCDS see if you can see/hear the actuator moving, look at the actuator position using live data. Do the same for the throttle valve. If they all move physically and the position sensors move as they should do then I would say the EGR has not been "mapped out", TBH I have always been very suspicious of that term, that you are experiencing frequent regens suggests to me that the DPF has not been "mapped out" either. VCDS should report the software version of the engine ECU, others with better knowledge than me will be able to decipher it for you.