J.R.

I understand that, it was the "earlier" that confused me. I dont think I have to turn the wheel 45°, mine lights up when I drive under my carport which is a very gentle slalom, different vehicle though.

Sunroof should have a manual crank under the front centre plastic cover which can be actioned with an Allen key, that is how it was on my MK1, it may even have had an Allen key clipped into the moulding.

I had not realised that you were the guy that replaced a lot of steering and suspension components to then suffer heavy steering but would not accept what was shouting out, the castor angle being well outside of the specification and instead was fixated about increasing the steering power assistance. I bowed out then and am doing so again now, you have started several threads, I would not have commented had I realised what vehicle it was. I don't think these vehicles have "software controlled end stops" that you attribute to them, they can be driven without the power steering working, I was towed recently in mine, the steering angles were exactly the same as when the power steering functions.

Looks like you like me learned the hard way to not play with settings. I ended up in the same situation, the problem was I think bad instructions in VCDS when it was telling me to drive left and right at certain speeds whilst simultaneously patting my head and rubbing my stomach. I think after tearing my hair out it resolved itself through normal driving, I'm sorry I can't recall more, what I did retain and will not forget is to ignore my curious nature when it says "what will happen if I do that?"

Whenever I tot up how much you have spent over and above the purchase price on that collection of rust it makes my spine shiver. I'm pretty sure without that clip the caliper is misaligned and at best the pads will wear wedge shaped at worst the braking will be compromised. I don't like that style of caliper, I much prefer the ones with guide pins bushes and gaiters. I can see why you bought the induction heater! I have just brought back into service a 300kg 19th century forged anvil which has been left outside 50 years to the knowledge of the oldest people in the community, it could be as long as 100 years, it was not as corroded as your car, I bought a pneumatic needle scaler (thanks Lidl) something I had always wanted but could never justify till now, it does a superb job of rust removal and the secondary effect of shaking things loose, if you have a compressor I would recommend one.

Thanks, I stand corrected, as you say on a 3 cylinder it would be appalling. Do the 4 cylinder petrol and diesel engines do the same?

Any fault on the ABS system or any of the sensors it uses will bring up the ABS warning light permanently. If the braking system does not develop enough pressure (weak servo or weak driver) or if there is a lack of friction (glazed pads, pads through to backing) it will not illuminate.

I don't think what you want to do is a VCDS parameter and the ones you have modified translate as upper and lower steering wheel angle, you may have mucked around with the steering angle sensor, I suggest you revert them to the original settings. I do not understand your use of the word "earlier", without it I understand what you wish to achieve (but I don't think it is a parameter), with the word it makes no sense.

My mistake but the point I was making is still valid, L.O.S. does not make the engine run on two cylinders

Carburettor icing is not fuel freezing The air/fuel ratio will play no part in the phenomenon. Carb icing is freezing of water vapour when moisture laden humid air (warm air contains more moisture) cools to the dew point from the pressure drop in the venturi, fuel vaporisation from the main jet can also drop the temperature (latent heat of vaporisation) of the incoming air. In either case or frequently both together its the formation of ice particles that block the flow of fuel from the main jet, idle jet and progression drillings.

Limp mode AKA Limited Operating Strategy does not make a 4 cylinder engine run on two cylinders, the misfire that you experienced will have been the ignition fault causing the MIL indicator to light up.

Its been over 20 years now since my racing days so I'm only concerned with road brakes now. You might be right in that it was the pads and not the discs that were glazed but when the braking force became reduced the discs would always be in a right 2 and 8, dressing the pads on the bench never seemed to yield results for me. It' strange that the Yeti has yet to suffer although it does a lot of towing.

Glazing is a strange phenomenon that I dont fully understand, yes the easiest way to deglaze pads is on the bench but it's also the discs that become glazed which other than machining only abrasive pads or abusive braking as I described can remove. Glazing from a track day, yes I have experienced that but I believe its actually the pad material degrading through overheating, its only happened to me with the wrong compounds, OTOH for road glazing a few hot laps works wonders, well the next day that is when everything has cooled down, never apply the handbrake after returning to the pits! An anecdotal story which first brought me to abusive deglazing of brakes. I bought a Ford Galaxy as a write off rebuild project, it was one of the very first made and caught fire very early on, it had been driven by a mother of children judging by the amounts of sweets and toys wedged between and under the seats etc, I would say in hindsight that she had driven it very gently, all 4 tyres were equally under-inflated and gave a very smooth but unsafe ride, the brake discs were scored to hell, the brakes juddered like mad and hardly slowed the vehicle at all, at 20mph the steering judder nearly tore the wheel from my hands. I resolved to replace all 4 discs and pads as soon as I could but being busy with my own business it took a couple of weeks, I was commuting to and from sites in London every day with the seats out and the back heavily loaded with tools and materials, I drove like an absolute maniac back then, the road was my personal racetrack. After a few days I noticed the braking improving and the juddering reduced, after a week or so it had gone completely and when I looked at the discs which were rusted and grooved beyond redemption they looked as smooth as brand new discs fresh off the grinding machine! They remained that way all the years I owned it. Its only when I eventually grew up and drove normally that I started to suffer brake glazing but I knew then what the solution was. The Yeti suffers less than the preceding Octavias, possibly because it has the smallest brakes and has been remapped so they get more of a work out, I'm using the same Ferodo Eco Friction material that I have for a decade which I find is the best all round for road use.

I forgot to mention that, I secure them with the one caliper bolt allowing it to swing out to access the piston. If the pistons are relatively free then they can be held by hand. Nothing you have done will have let air in the system, you will need to pump the pedal initially, then as the pads bed in the pedal will become firmer. If you have a problem with the handbrake self adjuster on one or both calipers attend to that before bleeding the brakes, look at the lever compensator, it should be normal to the cable axis, do not adjust the slack cable before ensuring the self adjusters are working properly. With the handbrake pulled up hard both caliper levers should make the same angle, critically they should both return to the same angle when the handbrake is released. Return springs were fitted to the levers on some models, these can be fitted to others to help if everything else is free.

Good point!

a better method is to preload the piston with the G clamp then screw it in a little using water pump pliers.

Remove the plate, preload the adjusting screw with a G clamp, wind the piston in a little then use the plate. Were the pads worn through to the backing plates or did you press the brake pedal when the caliper was removed?

The one in the video does not have one and is not a good tool IMO, probably due to it having to be universal. This will be difficult to explain but the helix on the caliper piston adjustment screw is a coarser thread than the screw on the tool so as the piston is rotated and screws itself in the drive plate on the tool becomes loose, the contra threaded sleeve on my tool allows me to maintain the axial pressure, if I have not pre-loaded it enough at the start then sometimes the piston will turn but not retract on its adjuster locking the tool up. Others with experience of that universal tool may say it isn't a problem, if thats the case disregard my comment. Edited, ignore the above, I had only skimmed through the video as it was so long and wordy, right at the end you can see him taking up the slack by turning the large hexagon by hand, on mine it is knurled so easier to do, you need to regularly take up the slack when using the tool which he does not mention.

With the engine switched off press the brake pedal several times to empty the vacuum accumulator, the pedal should then be rock solid and remain high when pressed. Then with your foot remaining on the brake pressing moderately hard start the engine, the pedal will move further downwards under your foot pressure showing the servo is working correctly. From what you have described I think the servo is working however there might be a split on one of the hard plastic vacuum lines reducing its efficiency.

Only you will know if the pedal is spongy and there is air in the system, very difficult to decide from your comments, if there isn't then you have glazed discs and pads which has happened regularly to me on modern vehicles since I stopped driving like the road was my personal racetrack and since asbestos was removed from the pad formulation. I can normally tell by the disc scoring or by kickback, other times I become aware when I do have to do an emergency stop, the solution is not for the faint hearted, it involves abusing the brake system doing repeated full on emergency stops from 80+ mph downhill (away from traffic bien sur) until the brakes are smoking and the pedal is spongy, then driving without breaking to initially cool them and leaving it overnight to properly cool without applying the handbrake. I bought bigger discs and calipers from a Golf GTi because I have remapped the car and tow trailers more than double the weight limit albeit only locally now, I found out the hard way that my struts being 50mm dia body were too small for the GTi steering knuckles, adaptors are available, I was going to fabricate mine. Someone spoke of unsprung weight, thats what put me off, the box with the brake discs and calipers is so heavy that I can barely lift it, the brakes work very well in standard form (if maintained as above) but do lack feel somewhat, I no longer even notice that.

You need to use a wind back tool, it needs to be the correct "handing" although my RH standard one has always worked on Fords and VAG. As the piston rotates you must also maintain an axial force by undoing the knurled adjusting sleeve. Hard to describe but it should make sense with the tool at hand.

Thank you for your apology. I had not "twisted what you put" as I quoted your exact words each time so you had plenty of opportunity to see what you now call your typos. Next time try to avoid the insults, you may have noticed some of your postings have been removed by the moderators recently, they were the ones containing threats.

When you flat clear coat it becomes white in colour, granted it does not obliterate the base colour underneath, rather it looks like the first coat of white emulsion over a previously painted wall. If I could get my phone to connect to the computer to upload photos I could show you the white gashes on my front bumper that are clear coat scratches and the couple of deeper ones that go through to the base colour and the primer underneath.

I have flatted out far too many clear coat scratches over the last few decades, they all showed distinctively white over dark colours like a girlfriends black MX5 and my blue Yeti, the ones on my previous silver Octavias were not so distinct against the light base coat but white nonetheless. An easy trick is to flood the scratch with water or smear silicone from a rag into the scratch with a pointed implement the white scratch will momentarily or temporarily disappear. The MK1 eyeball is the best arbiter of the depth of the scratch and whether its gone through the very thick clear coat and through the base coat underneath to the primer or bare metal. My input to this thread was to ensure that the OP did not follow bad advice to touch in a clear coat scratch (and its up to him to decide if it is) with "a body paint"

Different rules apply, no Type Approval or SVA testing.