J.R.

I'm not so sure now, I can see loads of marks on the roof, most not as bad as the ones you have photographed, if the others get worse with time then its definitely a paint preparation problem, it almost looks like a rusted panel has been painted.

Pictures 1 and 3 are 100% damage from bird lime and not the responsibility of the dealer or manufacturer. That said it would never have lifted the lacquer on say a MK1 Octavia but modern vehicles use low VOC water based paints.

Its the secondary output shaft gear of the tamping wopple 🤣 Enlarging the photograph of the white part still attached to what appears to be the heater casing it looks like the plastic is broken out just above it, perhaps from when the part made its bid for freedom. I concur with Mech0z

Even if the plug in the kit is incompatible you could use just the wires and pins, de-pin the broken conductors, insert the new wire and pin and join within the door. I have a kit for when I first get problems, not if but when! If it happens at a busy time like at any time in my current life I will probably only replace the broken conductors and any other suspect ones and accept that I may have to do it again one day, and again, and again, and............................ 😄

Sell it to someone in London and they can then get £2K for scrapping it. If I have understood correctly how the ULEZ rebate works.

No the standard vehicle static rev limiter is still present after the emissions "fix". I know for certain because my vehicle had had the fix before I owned it and I paid to have the software rolled back, one of my better investments. I had a UK MOT to be "clean" for the journey to France where I reregistered the vehicle, it was done by a pal and he didn't do an emissions test because he could not rev the engine to the required threshold. 2 years later I had a CT test in France and they did do an emissions test but at the lower RPM, getting the oil up to test temperature took a lot longer, the test was done at the limited 2.5k RPM, I am surmising that they have different pass/fail figures than if it could reach maximum rpm, maybe not but the engine is going to be cleaner at 2.5k rpm than at double that and wont risk shredding the original cam belt. My UK MOT was accepted by the French registration authority so I did not have to pay for a second test, the real bonus was that they gave me 2 years validity like a French CT so for a year I was driving legally on an expired MOT, I was looking forward to confusing a flic with that one but I never got stopped which was no surprise.

If you are attributing : "if the car has been jump started using the incorrect method that the resultant current flow risks damaging the current sensor/battery monitor attached to the battery negative terminal cable clamp. This could then result in the battery charging management system not having the correct info being received from the monitor and can do one of the two things I originally mentioned. So it could overcharge and damage the battery plates internally, or it may be undercharging." as the words of your Skoda service agent then they are talking nonsense and you are repeating nonsense, if you understood where the simple shunt resistor lives (its in parallel with the negative cable from the battery to that stud) and its purpose you would have known they were talking nonsense. I would not have needed to hear the words, just seen their lips moving 😄

Sorry but that is pure fantasy and may cause unnecessary alarm to the OP or other readers. The current flow through the shunt resistor when jump starting would be no different to that when cranking from a healthy battery.

With all due respect your speculation of the results of jumpstarting directly to the battery is nonsense. Also this does not make sense: I think you meant to say no.

What a horrible situation, you have my sympathies Shot at with what? An air pistol, a BB gun? How old is your daughter?

Are you saying that VAG are deliberately making the DSG boxes fitted to VW and Skoda models laggy so as to push people towards the Audi vehicle range? You say it in an authoritative manner, is that your knowledge or your belief? Dissatisfaction with one brand is more likely to steer people away from all the group offerings, that is my belief and not confirmed fact.

Engine type please!

A proper old school battery tester, it can't be beaten if you know how to use it correctly I still use mine but the scale range was designed when vehicles had far smaller batteries, if you look at the staircase type scale between the yellow Weak and the green OK you will see that each increment relates to a different battery AH capacity range, the needle is nearly as thick as the increments. Inspired by mine I made a similar drop tester for intruder alarm and access control system batteries using car cigarette lighter and an LED array, its time the Chinese did something similar to the above tester.

I think photos 2 and 8 show what has let go, I assume you are no longer driving the car, if you are please cease to immediately if not sooner!

Its actually the persons username and raises the question that I so often ponder, why do so many new users start their first thread(s) with their username as the title? There must be something confusing in the instructions for a new user.

How many weeks do they have to stir it before they can spray it? 😄

Live with it? I would put up with far worse noises than that to avoid ever being jerked around by a selling garage.

😄😄😄😄😄 Its also partially hydrogenated and will give the driver Cholesterol 👍

Its an omen, call it off! 😄 In years to come when you are presented with other "little accidents" including no doubt from your children you will think of me 😄 Decades ago my pal got so fed up with his insouciant wife pranging every vehicle that they owned he sold on her one while she thought it was being repaired and presented her with a Lada 😒 saying it was tough as old boots and she could prang it as much as she liked and it would not look any worse than it already did. Back then it was a toss up between a Lada and a Skoda 😄

And joy of joys, as if my day wasn't good enough already their website says: No custom taxes for EU and UK customers due to multiple warehouses in those regions. Happy days for me 🥳 Having access to competitive suppliers like them is something I really miss now that I no longer have a foothold in the UK and post B*****

I'm very happy to be proved wrong (again) in my cynicism and that Pete has found you a cheaper source of the OE part.

Why are you against getting the price from a dealer? It will surely be less than buying from an overseas online shop, every item I have checked with these sellers has always been far more than I paid for the genuine part from TPS who gave me an 8% discount on most things, sometimes more on service items. These places rely on peoples understandable reluctance to buy from a main dealer but often charge even more. @Breezy_Pete should be able to give you the retail price.

What do you mean by "replaced compressor valve"? If you mean the one on the compressor (the modulating valve) then you will need a regas afterwards, if you mean the pressure switch or transducer these can be replaced without losing system pressure, they have a schrader valve core underneath them which they open when screwed in.

It sounds kosher and if you are happy with the vehicle you got for the money you paid then well done you! All you have are some unknown extras and you havn't inherited a bag of problems which is great.

Is that a current or the historical fault code? Can it be deleted and does it come straight back again? You say the light has come on and it is logical to replace the sensor but only if an active fault code points to that circuit.