J.R.

Regarding manufacturers wanting to hush up any issues and not reveal publicly when their vehicles have a latent fire risk the following that I have just posted on another thread is very pertinent: From the charred remains of the loom I forensically reconstructed the fault, a coil wire (unfused) had chafed through on the coil pack bracket melting the insulation on other wires in the loom, the high current fused the ignition contacts together so when the driver switched off and removed the keys the loom continued to melt, they confirmed this to me, the fire brigade eventually cut the battery cables. After that I saw no end of early Galaxies smouldering at the side of the road, always 2.0 DOHC petrol engines like mine, Ford were not interested in the cause or the safety of their owners, they said candidly to me its not really a Ford, its a shared platform with VW and Seat, the only thing we supply is the 2.0 petrol engine, the car is made by a Portuguese company called Auto Europa and badged for us, the adaptions for the engine including the coil bracket are not ours, its just rebadged for us.

You have neglected to consider that most if not all the circuits are fused and the main power cable from the battery (not the starter cable) has a fusible link. I say most because petrol engined cars by convention did not have a fused supply to the ignition circuit for believe it or not safety reasons, I'm not sure that it still applies today but it did in 1995 which was the last burnt out vehicle I was involved with, no not in that way!!!! In 84 I had one of the first Suzuki Jeeps, my bodged up wiring for air horns, essential for a young hoon caused a short which took out a lot of the ignition loom before the fusible link let go, the fire did not spread. The 1995 vehicle was a 2 year old Ford Galaxy, again one of the very first, I bought it as salvage as I usually do and it was burnt out from a loom fire which had taken out the whole loom and set fire to the dashboard and drivers seat, it was new enough to be a viable repair project. From the charred remains of the loom I forensically reconstructed the fault, a coil wire (unfused) had chafed through on the coil pack bracket melting the insulation on other wires in the loom, the high current fused the ignition contacts together so when the driver switched off and removed the keys the loom continued to melt, they confirmed this to me, the fire brigade eventually cut the battery cables. After that I saw no end of early Galaxies smouldering at the side of the road, always 2.0 DOHC petrol engines like mine, Ford were not interested in the cause or the safety of their owners, they said candidly to me its not really a Ford, its a shared platform with VW and Seat, the only thing we supply is the 2.0 petrol engine, the car is made by a Portuguese company called Auto Europa and badged for us, the adaptions for the engine including the coil bracket are not ours, its just rebadged for us. There was never a recall but they ordered the garages to fit a tywrap to hold the cable away from the sharp undeburred edge during service visits. I reckon most vehicle fires now are started by the electrical system, the fuel rail leaks on the VAG TSI's have yet to result in a fire. For me the safest vehicle is diesel powered, it will only combust when vaporised and then it will burn but not explode, its vaporising point is very high. Petrol far more dangerous as it will vaporise at ambient temperature and will explode in the tank. EV's more dangerous when the battery pack does go up but it may well take a lot longer to get there but when it does its a risk to anything around it. All of the above fire scenarios are fires resulting from electrical shorts, the petrol engine has the capacity to start its own fire from a fuel leak and a spark and the EV battery has the potential to self destruct through overcharging or an internal insulation failure. It would be interesting to see how much time the occupants would have to exit the vehicle safely with the same short circuit fire, say underbonnet with each of the fuel types, I reckon petrol would be by far the most dangerous in that it would spread quickly and kill a trapped driver, diesel quite some way behind it and an EV by far the slowest to reach a critical point for the battery to go up, by which time the burning plastics and dashboard etc would have already killed any occupant. Just my musings but I think NCAP should be as concerned about this as they are about crash testing, after all the Fire Certification bodies are very concerned about combustible fabrics in the home and fire prevention measures to limit the spread of flame and smoke.

That aint no cigar that monkey 2 is holding!

I agree, this forum is flooded with what later turns out to be BS because people believe what a garage tells them. Check yourself by jacking the car up and lifting the piston rod shroud, that is the only way to be sure.

Thanks, I got it! I replaced the brushpack in situ on mine, it had to be done by feel but I had no choice at the time, I managed to tweak the springs to extend the length to buy some time before fitting a new brushpack/regulator. I had not realised that I avoided loads of grief, how very not J.R.!

It will never happen, only in peoples imagination nourished by scare stories in the media and on social media.

My Yeti is a CritAir free zone!!!!!!!!!!! Others get great satisfaction out of looking for hoops to jump through, not me!

It most likely isn't.

Yup, that will be the problem, it was the one and only time that my MK1 Octavia let me down but at least it cost nothing but 5 minutes of time to fix. I had smoke billowing from that starter once when trying to prime the injectors after running out of fuel and not having a spanner, absolutely bulletproof!

Bon retour!

Unclip the gaiter covering the doorloop and visibly inspect all of the wires through the whole length visible, then flex back and forth each conductor along its length to show up any fractured wires, normally the insulation will be broken. Then do the same on the drivers door which is the one that gets the most wear, wiring faults there can affect the other doors, my money is on your problem being found there.

Because it is now sticking out. It is now swinging on a larger radius, the clearance is very tight. What came first, the chicken or the egg? is the question!

That is very good depreciation 👍 And triple the money I got when I scrapped my MK1 which I was very pleased with at the time.

No battery, yep that would prevent starting!!!! 😄 Is that a fractured wire in the second photo amongst the red tape around the loom? A previous bodge come to light?

Yours is a username that I remember from years back on French forums Tresco! Repairing the wires will most likely have cured the fault but the warning light will need to be reset using VCDS or similar as its a safety system. I see you have OBDII, simply deleting historic fault codes should clear the light, I dont know the software but you can probably delete stored codes somewhere, no new ones is very encouraging. Did he splice in lengths of wire and solder the joints away from the fractured point? If soldered where they broke they will break again and faster. My location in SW France is shown if you need any help.

Completely different vehicles, my mistake 😒 My last 3 Skodas have all had the same design of towbar and fixing methods, because the vehicles are so similar I am guilty of making wrong assumptions especially as I no see you have a Felicia.

That is a theory that does not happen in the real world, even on the track with a not well designed shortened sump without a windage tray you get some loss of oil pressure but not total, the catch tank on a dry sump system is designed to take out the aeration but due to height issues on my all steel X/flow installation in my Westfield my tank did not have the feature, it was never a problem even during endurance racing. An extra litre over a 3.6l capacity is not going to cause problems, its probably exactly the level that a previous generation of that engine had before they started looking for miniscule gains for emissions ratings. A pal of mine who had no Father or male role model bought his first car without anyone looking over his shoulder, he did not even know of the existence of a dipstick, he knew he had to check his oil level so he looked under the oil filler cap, it took all the oil in his can so he cycled to Halfords for another gallon, it took all that so he had to go back again, finally he got the engine filled to the brim with oil and started it 😒 It actually ran but sounded lumpy, no oil pressure loss through aeration but a lot of oil splashed around.

No delay, low refrigerant can cause a whistling noise from the metered orifice where the gas expands in the evaporator.

It certainly works that way with trim variants, for example the last letter(s) differ between a chrome or matt black radiator grille surround.

Diameter.

Mine were like that and passed the MOT brake test 😯

I have just had a look for you and it is right 🤣 Ask a silly question..................................... The serious answer is that it is often a dodgy contact on the bulbholder if the warning is intermittent.

Try switching between recirc and fresh air, mine is noisy on one of them (cant recall which) when the pollen filter is clogged which is most of the time!

It won't happen, you can tell me I am wrong in 2030.

I am preparing for when my nicely scrubbed evenly worn tyres get to the legal limit, at present I am enjoying the grip and stability they are giving, that seems a good price for France, was that a supplied and fitted price or is there delivery + fitting and balancing to be added? If you could post a link to them also I would be very appreciative. It sounds like you already have winter rims, I have a spare set with dangerously ungrippy winter tyres in La Somme quite close to you in l'Aisne if they are of any use to you. I bought a nearly new set of winter rims and tyres down here but frankly they might be of value for a handfull of days a year and if my next tyr change is to all season tyres I will have two redundant sets of winter wheels.