J.R.

Is that a serious question?

No, I'm even more confused now, I wrote in more detail in the other thread.

Sure, possibly I am misinterpreting the curves. Blue is power and Red is torque is that correct? They cross at 5250 rpm which is as it should be. I was going to say that the other pair of curves do not cross which is a physical impossibility. On reflection I decided that it was not a pair of curves pre and post but a power run and then a coast down dyno powered run to measure the transmission losses, this is shown by the blue curves turning back on themselves and turning red and maybe its just a coincidence that the blue from one and the red from the other cross at 5250, maybe the torque curves are not shown but the graph has a torque scale. What are you seeing? It doesn't help that I cant read the numbers from the table, it looks like the power has gone from 237hp at 2800 rpm to 316hp at 2900 rpm, I can see one blue curve indicating the former but nothing resembling the latter. The more I look at it the more confused I get, I dont like these graphs with 2 different vertical scales, bad presentation and mathematics but I can usually make out what is going on, not this time. Perhaps you can enlighten me.

I asked on another thread if they were pre and post tune graphs, you have confirmed it here. There is something very very very wrong with that graph, am I the only one to see it?

Present it for MOT without the rear seats. OTOH maybe they still check the seat belts so you might have to remove them also. A couple of people on here are well up on the MOT regulations (I am 2 decades out of date) who will advise if I am talking Bravo Sugar again.

There is something very very very wrong with that graph, am I the only one to see it? Maybe I am misinterpreting it, is it supposed to be the before and after power & torque curves from the same vehicle?

I thought he was going to use the fluid to clean the rear discs 🥴

Yes that will be the ideal solution and you might get lucky and not need the programming. It is also very easy to repair the clockspring if you are handy with a soldering iron, then there definitely would be no need for reprogramming.

I'm oversensitive because I have moved (for a variety of reasons) to not far from to the epicentre of English ghettos in Dordogneshire, I hear that sort of stuff all the time and from people who have in many cases been here 30 years without learning any French, the concentration is so high and the willingless of the French to adapt to the unreasonable demands mean that it is easy to do so and live in this area without ever mentally leaving the UK which absolutely is not the case in the rest of France. I am close enough to be able to dip in and out as I desire to profit from some of the positive things but far enough away to not be called on for handholding and translation at every opportunity. Good luck with your house purchase, a trailer is indeed one of the first things to either buy or bring over, my collection numbers 9 now including the caravan that I am living in while clearing the land and doing the renovation.

The only thing that you asked for was advice on where you stand, I gave you that after summing up what I thought to be your situation which you could have corrected had I misinterpreted it. I will give you some unsolicited advice, as far as the law or the selling dealer are concerned your wifes car breaking down, your savings, child and dog are irrelevant.

You bought a 6 year old second hand vehicle a year ago from a garage that agreed to "tidy the back end up". You "checked the car over thoroughly before accepting it and they sorted a few minor niggles". You have now noticed a tiny amount of paint either flaking from the bonded area under the glass or more likely like it was always there and caused by removing the masking tape when the paint was no longer soft enough to tear. You are unaware of any rusting. What are you complaining about if the purpose was to "tidy the back end up"? You would have to bend down or raise the tailgate to see it. Could you also explain what statute in consumer law covers a "fit for purpose for reasonable amount of time claim"? as it sounds like something you have made up. Unless you paid them extra to carry out the work and it was say for rust remediation and it has now rusted through again I would say you have zero claim against the unfortunate dealer that sold you the car.

If you want second hand and plug and play with no reprogramming or possibility of incompatibility then you need one with the same revision number as yours and from a vehicle with the same optional equipment or lack of eg cruise control, steering wheel controls etc. The Rosstech website has a page with all the part numbers, revisions and functions supported.

No, you were lucky that you were visiting a region over-run by English speakers with a similar attitude I can tell you from having lived 18 years in the real (French) France that you have no idea just how lucky you were or how it would have turned out elsewhere and that the vast majority of English in my new region have never realised either hence the proliferation of that unfortunate colonial mindset. Had you towed a trailer to France with you?

I still have not yet replaced my propshaft Guibo coupling due to the need to either push the engine forward or move the rear diff rearward to drop the propshaft, the diff noise has got worse and I'm fairly convinced that its the smaller crownwheel bearing that is failing almost certainly due to my mistakenly draining the diff and running it dry for 200 miles 2 years and 45K miles ago. So I want to remove the diff, strip it, remove the pitted bearing and source a replacement, the size is yet unknown so I cant buy it in advance and there are also other unknowns like sealing the casing afterwards, getting the correct preload and CW&P mesh, I don't want to rush it, a second hand diff is not an economic possibility now that I am solely in france and no longer return to the UK. I need to keep the car on the road while I work on the diff so am hoping that I could still drive the vehicle in FWD only by removing the diff, propshaft and both rear driveshafts, having had a look (but not a good one like using a ramp) it seems feasible unless any of you know otherwise, I'm sure it will be fault code city and lose ABS etc but maybe I might be able to code out the 4WD unit. Looking at it I think the diff can be removed by sliding it forwards and down without having to remove the rear cross member, the upper rear mountings bolt from the top, I think I can feel removable access plugs above them but I carry so much Brin under my variofloor that it will be a major work up to see, can anyone who has a tidy boot and can lift up their floor covering confirm if there are removable bungs to access the upper diff mounting bolts? Can anyone confirm that the diff does come out in the manner I think it does without removing the crossmember? Very few people seem to have done this job. All and any other comments welcomed, I may well have missed the elephant in the room!

Did you ever check to see if a standard (single mass) flywheel had been fitted?

Is the worn bearing in the differential? If so that will be the smaller one on the opposite side to the removable cover, cant recall if its left or right as I was on my back, it was only yesterday that I was planning how to do the job and hopefully keep the car running in 2WD while I work on the unit. Be aware that whilst the bearing replacement is cheap and easy Skoda nor pretty much any independant garage will do it and the cost of a new diff is many thousands of pounds, expect a lot of wriggling from them in respect of whether it will be covered by the warranty. The blown speaker might actually show up as a fault code, the radio is a Canbus controller and most monitor their outputs. The worn bearing will probably have a "they all do that sir!' fault code 🤣

Do you think the connectors got crossed when the guy was reassembling after the waterpump replacement? Bad design that 2 adjacent connectors did not have a polarising key to prevent misconnection. Did you manage all of this speaking English? If so you were darn lucky that it happened down here and not in Les Hauts de France, I had to speak only French from day one 18 years ago up there, when I was hospitalised down here recently the staff were amazed that I could speak French and they didn't have to communicate in English. I'm glad that you are sorted and can now finally begin to enjoy your holiday although it may take a couple more days before you feel really confident about the car but it sounds to me like everything is fixed and the gods are now smiling on you!

The problem is the basic functioning of electric power steering compared to hydraulic power steering, the latter if correctly designed feels exactly like and has the same responses to control inputs as a non assisted manual rack but simply less effort. The former is a crock of sho1te by comparison and I absolutely hated the steering on my MK2 Octavia compared to the MK1, the Yeti is no better I have just become used to it and having to make continuous fingertip control inputs to maintain as close to a straight trajectory as I am able.

It is not a diagnostic fee. The correct term is "we dont want anything to do with any vehicles once we have sold them aside from lucrative servicing and obligatory warranty work so hopefully you will be outraged enough at the £135 for doing nothing fee and go elsewhere"

I cant recall what was the original thread, in respect of your vehicles value and what it likeley sold for through Copart would you mind posting one or more photos again showing the damage. The car hire costs are sobering, surely it would have been cheaper than that to repair your vehicle in a timely fashion?

I second that. Sheplobsters. Forget what the RAC guy or tyre fitters may or may not have said, use your MK1 eyeballs and decide for yourself whether one or both driveshafts are missing the retainig nut or bolt, you simply remove the wheel centre cap and look inside. If missing then do not drive the car even 6 inches.

100's being scrapped? - I doubt that but lets say there are, how many will be high spec models with the jumbo box? How many of those will be L&K models with leather trim? How many will have the desired Black leather trim? It sounds like Blackbird has already gone through the limited number of consoles from cars being broken and chosen what was probably the only one. Were there a black one available he would have bought it.

There definitely is some kind of a sensor within the Climatronic with a fan blowing cabin air over it and it has caused problems when dirty or dusty. I no longer have Climatronic so cannot have a look-see.

Keep your eyes on Copart and the DVLA and you will see what it was sold for and how quickly its back on the road probably to an owner in the dark. Then you will see just how little the insurers actually have to pay out after deducting the excess and the salvage income. It's no wonder they are so keen to write a car off, a car which clearly can be repaired very cheaply given what the chop shop will have paid Copart, their labour and parts and the then reduced resale price. And yet they seem more than happy to spunk away on car hire fees, perhaps that is the key to the write offs that clearly are not, much quicker for it to be assessed a write off from a couple of photos and no physical inspection and to make the derisory pay out offer (at which point the liability for the car hire ends) than to have the vehicle in the repairers for months on end & perhaps refused by the owner a couple of times till put right what they screwed up, all that time the car hire costs are racking up.

Thats the best way to do it if you cannot remove it to weld or replace it but as you have found it is not a permanent repair.