J.R.

Your red seat belts simply shout "Give me a pull!"

Is that what you have been running it on to date? Worth trying the non ethanol fuel to see if it makes any difference to the carburettor stumble. I reckon your carb is adjustable enough to cope with E10, I am using E85 in all my garden mechinery now.

Why dont you just remove your bonnet? That will be your miracle solution to a problem that does not exist with the added benefit for you that you can admire your shiny bling chocolate teapot aluminium chocolate teapot aluminium expansion tank while driving which would be marginally safer for pedestrians and other road users than watching the temperature guage all the time.

Move your wipers, they probably did not refit them in the same position, do it yourself & then you will know its done to the best compromise as I'm sure they are fed up with you by now. What is important is that the wipers in the rest position are over a heating element so they dont remain frozen to the screen, its completely normal for nearly every car with a rhomboidal screen to have unheated areas at each side which are swept by the wipers, it defrosts very quickly with heat conduction.

3 years ago?

Thanks for the excellent description, I had not realised that it selected the parking spot for you, that is my weakness, spaces always seem big enough for my vehicle and with enough shunts or restarts they usually are but always with really impatient people klaxonning behind me. Regarding the prompt to drive forward while parking, if it was ignored would the brakes come on?

Of course soon they will not be driving at all, just notionally in charge of the vehicle while ****tering, that is what it is leading to and regrettably it seems more and more cannot wait for the day.

No button presses, most people would know their way home from work and not need a shatnav or a mobile phone to navigate for them, you know, the sort of people that keep their eyes on the road and look (and know) where they are going. A dying breed I fear, more and more people spend 5 minutes at their destination staring into their mobile phones, probably did the same after getting in their car because they had to look where they were walking to get to their vehicle and judging by the amount of people that stop and block my driveway do the same several times during the journey. Still better that then them doing the same while driving staring at and pressing buttons on the glass tea tray taking up the middle of the dashboard.

Do these vehicles really auto reverse parallel park at 30km/h? 😲 I would be baling out if anyone other than the late Ken Block tried to do that and no way would I entrust flaky electronics and sensors to do it. You would have to be a seriously bad driver to decide to allow a vehicle to do that at 30mh/h rather than slowly and cautiously yourself

I get that feeling everytime I look through the active topics section of this forum seeing threads running to hundreds of pages on subjects like TMC Traffic Events, Android Auto, Carplay, Adaptive Cruise Control, Skoda Connect, Road Sign Recognition, Auto-parking, Bluetooth and loads of others I can't recall, all the gimmicks totally unnecesary for the reliable functioning of a motor vehicle collectively called "tech" which it seems seduces people into selling or trading in perfectly serviceable vehicles to buy a new unreliable and flaky one. It pretty much dominates this forum now compared to the mechanical, electrical and latterly electronic problems which were the majority when I first joined, electronic problems relating to the primary functions, engine, brakes, door locking etc and not superflouos systems. It's not a complaint, simply an observation of the changing times, it would be interesting to see what were the typical subjects when the forum first started.

If his vehicle has only ever registered 92°c in traffic in a Greek summer then I would say it is a well designed fit for the purpose cooling system for that is the temperature that the thermostat regulates the engine coolant to. If it were frequently going above 100°c meaning the thermostat is no longer regulating leaving only the cooling fan & thermoswitch then there is some argument to increasing the cooling efficiency as a precautionary measure. Ditto if you are tuning the engine or racing on a short twisty circuit.

At only £22 its worth a punt although I very much doubt it is the problem.

You have a well designed system functioning perfectly, the thermostat has never even fully opened and yet you wish to add more cooling! A solution looking for a problem. Adding an additional fan and/or fitting a larger more efficient radiator will achieve nothing other than perhaps your fan(s) running less or not running at all and then you risk seizure and the day you do need the fan to work, a coolant leak etc it wont!

Should you not be at a complete stop for the parking assist to do its job or do you have to control the accelerator? If the latter then "speed too fast!" I could understand but "too slow"?

They have always been so, the standards for seat belt anchorages were written using Imperial units and threads, to conform a seatbelt anchorage plate has to have the H7 clearance hole size for a 7/16" UNF fastener and the captive nut and bolt must both be of that thread. It is unlikely that it will ever change as it would mean a replacement belt fitted to an old vehicle would not meet the test criteria nor an older belt fitted to a newer vehicle. Motorsport suppliers can provide conforming 7/16" eyebolts and also carabiner latch type end plates for the seatbelts but that would involve unpicking and redoing the stitching that only someone like Willans are authorised to do.

They probably missed the reassuring Tractorness of their previous PD engine!

Its probably only with certain transmissions, on the Yeti its a 6 speed but I have seen mention of it on here on 5 speed transmissions with an external slave cylinder. Keep your eye open for it during the stripdown just in case.

Perished vacuum hose to turbocharger vane actuator, it collapses on itself under heat load and there will also be a miniscule leak (probably again perished hose) allowing the vacuum to bleed away from the actuator. You will find that cycling the ignition will bring the power back which may get you to the top of the hill or it may loose boost again. If this is happening from a cold start on a winters day then it would be an overboost from the turbo vanes sticking, you hear and feel a sort of burp when this happens as the throttle butterfly closes to reduce the boost pressure. From what you have described it will be the former, very difficult to diagnose, it took me 18 months, very easy to diagnose when you know its a possibility.

Lucas must have been a misprint then! The peak torque limiter is just a spring and ball in a calibrated orifice, it allows you to disengage the clutch as quick as you can stamp on the pedal but limits the speed of engagement, nothing high tec. If you have a plastic thing attached to the slave cylinder (concentric or external) with a hand operated bleed nipple then you have the peak torque limiter, I drill em out!

The vehicle is running so I dont think the pumps and injectors have been damaged, it sounds more like the DPF is regenning all the time or is still trying to burn off the snake oil it was force fed.

First world problem (the unhappy owners who feel their needs are now being completely ignored) I can't imagine many MP's getting excited about it.

Does the roadworthy test whatever its called in OZ (WOF - Warrant of Fitness?) have a dynamic shock absorber test with an oscillating wheel platform and a graph drawn of the spring mass reaction? If so bung a tester a few dollars to check the condition of your dampers.

You can confirm yourself using your own eyes or is that what the dealer has said? Some people on here endured 18 months of discomfort and danger because they believed the Bravo Sugar from the incompetent selling dealer.

My remap caused no problems at all with the standard original clutch which had done over 125k miles IIRC and I'm sure I put at least 30k on it over a couple of years. I replaced the clutch on the Yeti as a precaution when doing the DMF, I used a LUK kit which seemed good quality and has been fine and it takes a lot of abuse towing well beyond the vehicles limits. Do you get slippage when changing up from 4th to 5th or from 5th to 6th when using full acceleration, making a quick change and quickly flooring the throttle? If so that is a "characteristic" of the clutch peak torque limiter AKA bleed block, they would rather the clutch slip than the transmission pass too much torque, it only needs a few slippages like this to fry the clutch, it becomes glazed and in the case of the clutch I removed on the Yeti the pressure plate was dished from the heat so only clamping on the outer periphery, to be fair I dont know what abuse it had suffered previously, it was a fleet vehicle and being 4wd may have suffered lots of launch starts. I never really noticed the torque limiting slippage until it was remapped, in standard form you never really wanted to press on and there wasn't enough torque for it to do any more than a momentary slip, the revs did not rise.

That looks to be a single mass flywheel to me.