J.R.

Most later diesel engines have a motorised butterfly valve that does the job of an anti-shudder valve on switch off and to induce a partial vacuum for EGR, usually referred to as a throttle valve/body. It is the correct term as it does indeed "throttle" the intake air, the common useage of "throttle" for "accelerator" is perhaps the one out of place.

It's very very hard to make Diesel combust, it will burn if you add it to an established fire but otherwise you have to vaporise it before exposing it to an ignition source. VAG must have tried really hard to make self combusting diesel vehicles, as hard as they tried with the dieselgate cheating. I nearly wrote self composting, I must have been thinking of Ford, British Leyland, Fiat, Lancia etc!

2 poster ramps (the type with swinging out arms) are not authorised for MOT testing, it has to be a drive on platform with jacking beams, a pit for larger commercial vehicles with similar jacking beams.

Twin layshafts with clutches to engage and disconnect the drive from each one, the predicted or selected next gear is pre-engaged with the clutch disconnected, the gearchange is effected by the releasing of one clutch (the current gear) simultaneous with the engagement of the other clutch for the next gear, a very clever system but which makes for a very heavy transmission and the risk of instant shrapnel if the first clutch does not release. My guess is the OP has recently done or had done a cambelt change, don't ask me how I know 😳

Petrol or diesel? Did the Fire Brigade cut away the plastic to get to the battery terminal or did the fire make the hole in the cover? If the latter then it was an electrical short circuit and I would then deduce a petrol engine (ignition unfused only protected by a thermal link), otherwise it looks like the fire may have started behind the engine, turbocharger perhaps? Had any work been done in the engine bay recently?

Here we go again, a person asks a very specific question about removing a washer nozzle from the pipe and ends up with a sermon about battery charging. This has to be some sort of a crazy bet or competition that you have going.

That video was entertaining, especially the part where they try to whitewash the Dieselgate cheating software as "an issue" and try to pretend that it was done to protect the environment.

Take responsability for making your own choices based on the information myself and others have given you here. The rollback worked for me but it would be a different story were the DPF to have been blocked, my car had done 128000 kms (80K miles) but I don't know how it had been driven in that time. Post your autoscan because Varoom may have a different suggestion for you. You live in Ile de France, I doubt that you will find anyone in this country to do an emissions rollback and if you did the likelyhood would be that the next time the vehicle was in a Skoda garage they would re-implement the "emissions fix"

If you read my posting that uploaded while you were typing you will see that I reset mine to zero but it did nothing to change the problem, the ECU triggers on a calculated soot load and ignores the measured one, it does not seem to take any account of the oil ash volume whether it thinks it is full or has been told it is empty. What worked for me and worked like a charm was the emissions rollback, my UK next door neighbour has an Octavia which he has never allowed to have the emissions fix, he had never heard the cooling fans running when he stopped, mine was doing it at the end of every journey less than 20 miles unless I drove straight back out again to let it complete. Now with the rollback my car is like my neighbours.

I made my vehicle think it had a new DPF, the oil ash level dropped to zero but the calculated soot mass was still rising much faster than the measured and the regenerations were happening almost as quickly as yours. I should explain that I have an EGR emulator/simulator, no EGR gases pass but the ECU thinks they do, that I believe is the reason for the massive difference between the calculated and measured soot loadings, unfortunately the ECU is triggered on calculated. The final straw was a series of 800km autoroute journeys towing a very large wide fronted and heavily overloaded trailer, my foot was to the floor most of the time, fuel consumption was 24mpg and oil temp always over 100°c, the engine would have been perpetually passive regenerating yet the ECU commanded several active regens during those journeys and the very next day after arriving it was trying again. I have resolved the problem now by paying for an emissions fix rollback, I have heard 2 maybe 3 regens in the 10 months since it was done although they might be happening every 1000 kms or miles.

As I drive RHD cars in a country that drives on the right I need an extended "blind spot" type mirror on the left hand side, I thought that I was being clever with my MK2 Octavia when I found a LHD drivers door mirror and fitted it to the left side (passenger) door. It was useless although if I sit in the left hand seat with my legs across to the pedals on the right and my arms across holding the steering wheel it works really well 🤣 I am posting this in case anyone else is as stupid as me and has the same bright idea!

But that is exactly what it says it does, on other vehicles it is a generic OBDII fault code reader and reset (of non safety critical codes, airbag etc), nobody would expect it to interrogate and reprogram modules on other vehicles like it does on VAG, it will do exactly the same as your Aldi code reader, it does what it says on the tin. You very much can use it when your mates Focus throws up a fault code.

Actually you can, it can be used as a basic OBDII reader on any make of vehicle, I think its one of the options on the home screen. But as you point out, if you don't have your laptop computer with you..................................

Why? It's not going to degrade like a condom. I have had to really force my Gilet Jaune into the holder, it is nowhere near big enough, which also means on the few occasions where it might be prudent to wear it like when I am searching for steel at the recycling centre when the cranes are operating it would be too much hassle trying to get it back into the holder.

Thanks, I should have checked before opening my mouth! I need to raise mine slightly, if my CT is due this year I will do it during the test to the maximum height limit. What does the % figure relate to? X% of 850mm?

Only if whatever bad earth was corrected when fitting the new battery deteriorates again, your headlights will be seing alternator voltage no matter what state your battery is in. You could even remove it after starting (a very bad idea) and the headlights would be bright, dimming a little at tickover if you have a lot of electrical load like screen heaters, seat heaters etc.

I dont think that there is a lower limit, the MOT test just checks that there is not illumination above the cut off line on their machine. So you could pass an MOT with lights shining at the ground, OTOH if a mechanic adjusts the lights they will usually set them to just below the legal cut off point, I very much doubt that there would be a visible increase in light through raising them without exceeding the cut off point and failing the next MOT. Skoda projector lights are rubbish, even brand new ones, they are transformed by a cheap HID conversion but then you must really pay attention to the beam setting and set it considerably lower than the MOT limit to not dazzle oncoming motorists, even set like that HID's are superb in comparison.

It is not.

No. On other Skoda vehicles it is usually at the top of the transmission tunnel tucked in underneath the heater box, an area where nothing could hit it accidentally or even maliciously, I expect yours will be the same. You can usually get to it by removing the ashtray and the tunnel side trims, peeling back the carpet and working like a gynaecologist.

No correlation whatsoever except imaginary.

Post Brexit the problem might be import and export duties and formalities, now you know it can be done you might find someone in Italy or another EU country.

The airbag control module needs what the specialists call "crash data removal" which I suspect is an erase and reset, this cannot be done with VCDS or any other system to my knowledge although they clearly have something. There are a couple of UK companies that offer a 24 hour turnaround for about £30, I used one of these but can't recall or find their name, I think it was probably this one as Liverpool sounds familiar: https://crashdatareset.uk/

Difficult to answer your question when you have not specified in your profile what your car is and your country of residence. The only answer I can give you to your question is "yes, I know if it's possible (in the UK)"

Now I know it's 3 years then you are certainly not alone, the confinement and the new normal post confinement has been very tough on lots of people myself included, many projects have not progressed during that time. 18 months ago I made the decision that my previous occupation was not going to return and I was not prepared to reconstruct it again from nothing so started making life changes, it's only now that I can feel I am actually moving forwards, so much had to be done to get to this stage and so much remains to be done.

Forget the above, I was talking out of my backside, as soon as I got in the car today (first time for a while) I could see that the red section on the guage is at 1/8 indicated (not true) fuel tank, so the wrning light would come on at 3/16ish of a tank, the amount you indicate. I am filling up with between 57 and 59 litres. That is the software fiddling the readings to create the "virtual reserve" capacity of 5-7 litres approximately. If you are always driving similar journeys and getting similar mileage the range figure shown when you fill up seems optimistic, drop to half a tank and the range has halved, you say to yourself "maybe I will get the 650 miles that it said?" then as the guage drops like a stone so does the indicated range, the prediction at fill up was actually correct, if you were to ignore the fill up warning and continue driving after the range shows zero miles you would run out just after the indicated range. I have put that to the test on all of my vehicles when I first got them, to avoid anxiety and to know just how far I could stretch the refuel periods, I have not done it on the Yeti with its common rail engine as running out could be very bad news but I have occasionally got in 60 litres so it can be driven just as far as the others when showing zero miles, I do an additional 50 miles and only start worrying if that stretches to 60/70.