J.R.

Where did you buy your time machine? I would like one too!

Did you mean to say "below the lock"? and hence kicking the bumper on a Sierra or Granada Hatchback as BigJohn Suggests?

The toe in looks excessive on the NSR to me but I dont know what the limits are, usually it is shown on the print-out. The overall rear toe may be correct (I suspect it isn't) but the vehicle is crabbing, the rear axle is not parallel to the front and I bet you are having to make a steering input for the vehicle to drive straight and that is why you thought the steering wheel was not straight, I would say you have paid for a 4 wheel misalignment but maybe it was that way before. If driving in a straight line you remove your hands from the wheel does the car steer to the left? If so try again on an empty stretch of road while straddling the centre line to eliminate the road camber. With the misalignment its actually the rear axle steering (the rear of the car) to the right which changes the trajectory of the vehicle to the left. Has the front crossmember been removed for a clutch or steering rack replacement.

Because it would be in the exhaust manifold which Blouis probably meant to write but nonetheless what he wrote is still actually correct!

Your timing belt has jumped one or more teeth on the pulleys, or one pulley has slipped back one or more teeth, peu importe, the end result is the same, the valves have come into contact with the pistons and given the age of your vehicle its probably an uneconomic repair Turning but not with the correct synchronisation. It is likely that you had a warning that this could happen by the check engine light, the fault code would most likely have been for the camshaft position sensor out of sync with the crankshaft position sensor indicating that the timing belt had jumped initially one tooth, not enough to cause piston/valve interference but if you were to carry on driving................................

There is no bulb to be removed.

Yeah but........................... 😆

BS. The way into the boot which was also the case on Escorts at that time was using a pair of water pump pliers.

Urban legend amongst many others.

Is that size the smaller of the discs fitted? Because the smaller/smallest size can definitely be removed leaving the carrier in place, I removed mine. I can't recall the sizes though and its too dark, cold and wet to go outside and look.

Measure the resistance of the existing incandescent bulbs (I am too zonked to work it out for you) and then choose a shunt resistor say 10% less, dont forget the current rating, a 1/4 watt resistor will probably fry! Also think about heat dissipation, if you choose one with double the required current rating or a wire wound Alu cased heatsink one then it will be less of an issue.

Before the remap I declagged the intake tract of the throttle body, it made a big difference to the throttle response, fuel economy and driveability but did not really address the lack of ultimate grunt which the remap resolved. I have had 2 underpowered base model vehicles, a 105hp MK2 PD engined Octavia and the 108hp CR engined Yeti, both were transformed by remaps, its no coincidence that both were available with higher output engines with little or no physical changes, perhaps a larger turbo, I have found it to be a very economical route to take compared to buying the higher powered examples which cost huge amounts more in registration taxes in France.

I think if you ignored the request for a code and just waited for a couple of minutes the Columbus unit would have, and still would burst into life, to my knowledge all the VAG head units are paired to the vehicles they were fitted to at the factory but wont work without a code (and probably some VAG programming) on another vehicle. I know this through being impatient, looking through all the handbooks etc left by the previous owners, trying every different number written within only to find that the thing left to its own devices would have worked out that it was the original radio and started working.

One slight problem with that Fairy Tale, the data goes in the other direction, the ECU does not control the boost pressure and fuel rail sensors, it controls the injectors and turbo actuator using values from a 3D look up table in response to inputs from (amongst others) the boost pressure and fuel rail sensors, in the case of a tuning box (deliberately) incorrect values.

A shame you did not get the guys at Celtic tuning on the subject of tuning boxes and wear your listening ears. If it were not for a tuning box bodging the boost pressure in the same way as it does the injector duration then it would be no better than a simple resistor hidden in (an expensive) "Tuning box" connecting between the loom and the coolant temperature sensor as many once did. I have a Celtic tuning remap.

My 110 was woefull even before I started towing stuff far too big and far too heavy for it, it felt quite nippy through the gears but I think that was down to the 6 speed box but whenever I tried to do a mid range overtake I often had brown trouser moments. After a remap it is finally the vehicle that it should have been.

Its the connector for the injection loom.

Ignition timing is retarded or possibly a very weak mixture if the exhaust manifold is glowing red, and its the only part of the engine that could be. I'm at a loss as to how it could be retarded as the ECU times the ignition from the crankshaft position sensor, maybe it is the cam timing that has slipped and the exhaust valves are opening earlier than the usual overlap for scavenging.

They are GPS tracker beacons to bring in a missile strike! Do you have parking sensors or the boot unlocking system where you wave your foot around?

I believe it, everything on earth lasts for it's lifetime, no more and no less.

I think he meant "Shame" instead of "Some". Drive a screw into the side of any lithium battery and you will get a fire every time, penetrating accidents might be rare but the risk is not diminished. Please don't try this at home!

Was the photo of a Pierburg carburettor followed by one of (I think) a fuel injector a set up as well?

Interesting 👍

I drove 200 miles after my alternator stopped charging on a MK1 Octavia 1.9TDi including a 2 hour ferry journey and having to restart the engine on disembarkation and then driving 90 miles at night with the headlights on. I could not believe how far I got and was gobsmacked to find that it actually restarted the next morning, it was a couple of weeks before I could get a replacement brush pack but I had no concerns because I knew by then that it had a great autonomy on the battery and so I would only trickle charge it every other night. When I reflected I realised the engine had a mechanical injection system and fuel pump, while I was driving the only thing using current was the ECU, the instrument binnacle, a couple of engine sensors and the fly by wire throttle, later cars with electronic injectors, lift and scavenge pumps and all the other malarky would not have the same autonomy but 15 miles is not much at all, petrol engines easily do more than that.