J.R.

Bad advice, not hot but boiling water, the opening temperature is well beyond the temperature of domestic hot water and beyond scolding temperature, as soon as you take a kettle off the boil the temp will fall quickly to close to the stat operating temp by the time you have dunked it. I put them in the kettle, bring to the boil, look to see if they are fully open and then wait till they start to close, I take the temp at that point and also when they have just fully closed.

Oh merde! I hope its not Groundhog day

Actually that might be wrong, I have a feeling that when I coded out the Bluetooth module (it kept searching for previous owners phones & I could not delete them) it brought up an error as it was talking to the Gateway module that had been told to ignore it! I had to disconnect the unit. If that was indeed the case (I have memory problems) then its good, any forgotten modules will signal their presence.

Breaks in the element can be seen, it's unlikely that all the parallel conductive elements are scratched through. It will be either the tab connection or the "tails"

It has to operate the relay for a short period to measure the volt drop at which stage it either maintains the contact or drops it out.

It does indeed, like most monitored circuits it is looking for a calculated volt drop across a parallel shunt resistor in the switched contact supply. It's a very good protection against short circuits and blown fuses.

How/where did you measure the resistance? Did you try at the lower resistance ranges? It should be measured on the 200 ohm range.

It has probably migrated up from the clutch master cylinder, I bet they didn't bleed the clutch at the same time as they should have. You know that you can remove the gauze screen dont you? Do that and clean it out, you may find the particles are larger than the gauze in which case the contamination is from outside either from when they filled it or possibly the float switch/gasket deteriorating.

I read it as Pete did, I think its lacking a comma (after thermostat) as to my knowledge there is no such thing as a "thermostat expansion bottle"

That is what is supposed to happen with a heat exchanger!!!!! It depends on what you consider "a lot hotter" to be though. It does sound like the blending flap not operating, I kinda hope for your sake that is the case.

So you think it fills up with condensation as you drive, an interesting concept 🥴

There will be deflection when driving, cornering and braking, I have fitted rims to a girlfriends vehicle when her wheels were stolen & it was left on milk crates, they turned with no interference, no problems on a short backwards and forwards drive so we set off bcak on the 60 mile journey from her place of work in the City, she reported a knocking noise at speed, on bends and on braking, I had to fit (bodge) washers between the wheel & hub flange faces while waiting for the new wheels on insurance. On that basis I would say 4mm minimum, I used 3mm sometimes 2mm clearance on race cars dependant on whether rose jointed or not.

You should be checking your braking system as a matter of extreme urgency, the fluid is shared between both systems and the clutch master cylinder feed is higher up in the reservoir so that in the event of fluid loss which it seems you have you are warned by the clutch becoming inoperational before brake failure. Bleeding the clutch with an Easibleed is not the only way, it is IMO the wrong way, the clutch is simply bled through gravity after turning the purge valve 90° by hand, any air from the slave cylinder downstream makes its way to the void beneath the bleed valve and is expelled immediately as soon as the valve is opened, any air upstream rises to the reservoir, it's a very very simple system and intended to be self bleeding after refilling in the event of low fluid level in the reservoir but you must check where the fluid loss has occurred, your brakes could fail.

Assuming you get comms to the new gateway then you can program the installation list, it brings up all the possible installed modules and you simply tick the ones that you know you have. Most will be obvious, some may have several choices and you might initially pick the wrong one, you may also miss things that you should have included, but as long as you get the important things like engine ECU, instrument cluster, body control module etc enough vital systems will be talking to each other for the engine to start and run, doors to lock/unlock etc. Then its a case of looking at the fault codes for comms errors/module incorrectly programmed etc and working out which installed option you should have ticked, it won't look for things that you have not told it are installed so if for instance you have a Bluetooth module it won't be working but you wont see a comms error or anything, you will then need to add it to the installation list. I chose the latter as its something I have which I have disconnected and deselected from the installation list as it was bringing up comms error codes.

How do you know that?

You did not say whether during your output test with the coide reader the rear screen actually demisted. You have not yet measured the resistance of the element and are trusting what the tester is telling you, the best thing would be the evidence of your own eyes (use hot breath or a kettle to create misting) failing that a multi-meter.

That is not really the reason for it, they are so much more thermodynamically efficient compared to a petrol engine that much less waste heat is generated this means a longer warm up period and at light loads in cold weather with the heater on full the engine may not even reach or maintain the operating temperature hence all the extra gubbins like sliding shroud water pumps and auxiliary circulation pumps and circuits.

Stick with it, the aftermarket Weber conversions were in the main a pile of crap, never actually tested on the vehicles, you have the best carb in the world after you resolve the debris problems that might afflict a weber even worse. My pal put a Weber conversion on a CVH engined Escort, the venturi was forever icing up on damp days stopping the fuelling.

Aaagh, you have sent me down another series of rabbit holes! But I thank you, the vids were very enjoyable and its now a stunning vehicle, for decades the rare glimpses we have seen of these have been pug filled rebuilds and I had forgotten how sharp the lines once were, of course back in the day I wasn't looking at details like that.

Do they still operate?

Just look how clean everything is inside the rocker cover! I don't know if you are old enough to remember say Ford X/flow push rod engines in their day but everything would have been caked in black clag, the tappets would have needed constant adjustment and would still be noisy because of indented rockers, you would have to remove them to remove the indents on an oilstone and in doing so would see how worn the rocker shaft was, you would then refit it upside down to gain a few more thousand miles wear, this would be on engines that had covered 30K miles upwards sometimes even less. By 80k if you were able to nurse the engine to that stratospheric mileage you would no longer need to adjust the tappets, you could no longer hear them for big end knock, main bearing rumble, timing chain rattle and piston slap!! You would also hav had to decoke the engine at least twice to get to that mileage. If you look at the picture showing the old belt on the pulley with the valve gear behind, if you crop out the parts of the photo showing the corrosion on the alternator body you would say that engine was less than 12 months old and had done less than 1000 miles, or at least thats what a Ford, BL etc engine of the day would have done to have looked like that. In my experience all Jap engines since the mid 70's look like that internally even when they have never had an oil change, just think how good the sealing must have been around the timing belt covers for the belt and especially the cam pulley to remain like that.

Banjo bolt thread is not a standard ISO metric thread so unless a special Helicoil kit has been made for the job it's unlikely you will find one. If you find one then a helicoiled repair will be fine, stronger than the original & shouldn't leak because the banjo bolt brass washer is a larger diameter but it would effectively remove part of its sealing area, I think for that reason and the consequences of the job not being done correctly that nobody will have marketted a repair kit like they do for the caliper slide bolts, I could be wrong.

Glass is not really flat enough but better than the hand sanding block I thought you were using. Feeler guages will not show up warping but if you have two long machinists straight edges then you can sight along them, the process in carpentry uses "winding sticks" Good idea with the blue marker pen, my bottle of marking blue has dried right up and the residue does not thin with white spirit. Thanks for responding, I'm sure you will be fine with the flatness!

Have you been hand sanding this with a block? How are you deducing whether it is flat or warped? Was the blue finish Engineers Blue or marking blue? What did you apply it for and what was your next step? Forgive my questions but you have either missed out some important information or might be doing harm rather than good.

Your description is very confusing, what is not working, the screen wipers or the washer? I presume you mean the front as you go on to say the rear is working. What happened when the washer pump motor was hotwired? You say you got wipers but no wash, surely this means the pump is not working, why would people say its the ECU other than the usual "I cant work this out so it must be the ECU"