J.R.

I like your logic! The obvious suggestion would be the throttle spindle bearings and seals.

Have you had a towbar or replacement stereo fitted before the problem manifested?

There is no throttle on a diesel engine. Well there is actually a butterfly called a throttle body but it isn't, its purpose is to create a partial vacuum under certain conditions to draw regenerated exhaust gasses (EGR) and to prevent running on on shutdown. In any gear it should slow down to and then maintain the idle rpm, if you were in 6th gear that would be around 30mph but much less in 3rd or 4th. Change your MPG display to instantaneous instead of average, when you come off the throttle it should initially jump to 199mpg and then to zero, if it shows something between 80mpg and 150mpg (my guess) then the fuelling is not being stopped because the ECU is not recognising that the accelerator pedal is not depressed. If the vehicle is doing a regen the idle RPM will be higher and the off throttle speeds in each gear will be higher but what you describe is not right, it sounds like it is still fuelling.

Probably the late driver now Life expectancy even on the hard shoulder is measured in minutes.

On what basis do you say that? You are not mad so anybody who does different to you must be? My MK1 Octavia went to the scrapyard after 18 years and 500000 kms still on the original factor gearbox oil, the transmission was as good as the day it left the factory yet that vehicle had to put up with tremendous abuse towing lareg fronted massivey overloaded trailers though alpine switchbacks, it did make a little gear noise at those times during very long climbs in low gears but silenced again as soon as the oil temp dropped. I drained the diff oil on my Yeti at 80K miles, albeit by mistake, it was not even discoloured. I am not saying that you shouldn't change gearbox oil if you want to, it can not do any harm and would not say that you are mad for doing so

There must be some confusion on units here, 4-5 top ups totalling 200ml means 40-50ml each time, you would need a very small graduated jug to measure that and you certainly would not be able to make out the rise in level on the dipstick from the addition of 40-50ml. 2 litres per year perhaps?

Care to share it with us? You cannot ask for thoughts on something that has not been explained.

The artificial heated and pressurised capsule living environment is not "space".

Yet more snake oil then, there is no moisture in space!

Brake cleaner 👍

Not so, there could be no brake light fault or in this case probably one bulb problem but a failure of the secondary contacts which would almost certainly be the reason for the MIL light.

Heat from an oxy-acetylene torch would shift it, propane without an oxygen cylinder is just too slow and results in collateral damage, trouble is with the price of the gas and especially the cylinder rental and the democratisation of Mig welders very few people still have and use oxy-acetylene. I handed in my remaining bent cylinders when I left the UK, I still have the Portapak that I bought in 1978 but doubt I will purchase cylinders for it here in France where its much more expensive than something that was already a silly price. You also don't want to be heating up a pressurised strut containing oil which will burn when vaporised.

Remove the nyloc nut, replace with a standard steel one and tighten fully, hopefully you will have 6mm + of thread protruding, arc weld the nut to the bolt shank, the heat expansion will hopefully free the siezed bolt, wait 60 seconds for the weld metal to cool and the carefully apply forward and backward motion with a breaker bar to release the shank. If it does not feel like it is yielding then spray penetrating oil on both ends as soon as its cool enough not to vaporise the fluid, leave overnight and try to remove again. If you cannot get sufficient thread protruding to weld to then either use a thinner nut or a longer barrel nut or spacing washers and make the weld internally which is a lot harder but there are special welding rods for broken stud removal.

I used a 1 litre pyrex jug filled with water from the hot tap this morning. The hot tap in the bathroom close to the hot water ballon because the one in the kitchen wastes loads of heated water heating the cold pipes before anything warm runs. I have not cracked a screen in all these years but am more wary than ever now, my screen has a large chip and the glass is thinner than earlier vehicles, I only use warm or hot but never boiling water.

I had Ford Sierra XR4x4's as company cars in the late nineties, they all had heated front screens which worked really quickly, faster even than the HRW's (remember all those acronyms on used car ads?). In the time it took me to scrape the ice from the drivers and passenger windows the front screen would have de-iced and the rear 50%, enough for the rear wiper to remove the remainder, say a total of about 90 seconds, no misting on interior of front screen and a small amount on the rear which would clear in minutes. I have not had vehicles so equipped since and really miss the feature, that performance is the minimum that I would expect today when vehicles have 140 amp plus alternators, I would be very dissapointed in having to wait 5 minutes and would be clearing the screen by hand.

There are 2 sets of contacts on the brake light switch, one set monitored by the body control module to activate the brake lights (primary but not sole function) one set monitored by the engine ECU to cut engine fuelling when braking amongst other functions. The OP was correct in stating that the flashing glow plug light was probably due to a faulty brake light switch. To the OP, a relatively simple way of checking that the ECU is recieving the correct inputs from the brake light switch (incorrect or absent will cause the MIL light to illuminate) is to left foot brake while keeping the right foot on the accelerator, if the engine power cuts then all is well in regard to the switch.

Change the Guibo coupling, its purpose is to reduce driveline NVH. That does not sound like a worn differential. Assuming that you had not had a Haldex service done shortky before the noise started and that when the diff oil was drained it was not discoloured and did not have metallic debris then I would be confident that it does not need a new differential, I would have zero confidence in the diagnosis by the Skoda dealer. I could be wrong, it will cost you £6500 to tell me so!!!! A second hand diff would be a lot cheaper, they were between £200 and £400 when I was looking, I would not even spend that and the labour on the basis of what you have said, I would replace the Guibo coupling which should have been the first thing the garage did. Please update if it does or does not resolve the problem, why? because after damaging my diff by draining the wrong fluid I still have some transmission noise just like yours, I bought a Guibo coupling but have yet to fit it as on second inspection I decided that mine was not actually fractured, the split line is intended and is present on the new one, nonetheless the new one may result in noise reduction, its a difficult job that I have been putting off. In response to the question in your thread title, what "standard warranty" do you believe that you have on a 6 year old vehicle?

I'm not impressed because I like cyclists, but if they can modify the AEB parameters to wipe out Trottinette riders instead of cyclists then I want one, especially if it can target young male riders wearing hoodies staring at their phone screens. 👍

Those valves are completely safe and servicable and are not going to result in a sudden depressurisation. My only slight concern is the rubber lifting from the core body, if it has been caused by the OP's attempts to remove the valve caps then not a problem, there is a very long straight knurled bonded shank beneath. Wino has it right. But the rest of you are correct also, they cost next to nothing to have replaced and if it concerns you (unlike the OP, myself and Wino) then it will be money well spent for your percieved peace of mind.

Its not corroded metal, the valve body is brass, it's a trick of the picture that makes it look like corrosion.

No need to change them, the valve core is inside and not affected, the plastic valve cap fits and will be sealing against dust or moisture ingress, you are able to inflate the tyres so no problems there, a footpump with a lever type valve connector has a compression ring that fits around the valve threads, perhaps a PCL connector might leak air. However I can see what looks like the rubber outer seperating from the brass core, if that is not simply damage from where you removed the metal caps then I would replace the valve bodies, in all my years I have only experienced 2 leaks from the valve body becoming seperated from the rubber outer, one was probably faulty from new and gave me a slow puncture that could never be found until someone tried flexing the stem sideways and we saw the leak, the other was on an old but functional inner tube on a trailer tyre that I had just replaced, I had just (over)loaded the trailer and the next morning found the tyre flat, I went to hook up the compressor and found all I had was a rubber sleeve with no brass valve body, I found it about 20 feet away!

I think my memory may be decieving me, perhaps it had already been converted, I can visualise a push button pump now sticking out of the dash like a sore thumb and I don't think even then I would have done such a bad job!

It's repairable but the cost of a new rear screen fitted will bump it right up, for an insurer it's still probably the cheapest way but for DIY a second hand tailgate has to be the way if you can find one even if its the wrong colour and has to be repainted.

Complete and utter BS. The only times it would be appropriate to use a battery charger rather than the vehicles charging system is if the battery is too discharged to start the car, if you have no need to drive anywhere or only on very short journeys of less than 1/2 mile or a couple of minutes, if the vehicle is going to be left standing for weeks on end or over winter to avoid the battery discharging beneath 10.5v and a subsequent starting attempt. 15 hours later you contradict yourself with an accurate comment.

Something was wrong with the "prévoyez-vous m'aider ", either an auto-correct error or maybe it's the way the Wallons, Ontariens or Québecoises say it as it reads "do you forsee helping me?"